I just installed my EMB and olderguy's autotune without much trouble, but when I start my car, it revs up and dies right away, then gives a P0100 code, which is a MAF circuit code. I used a boomslang PnP harness, so I'm not sure what to do. I found the MAF wire at the ecu, and it looks fine, and I haven't touched the actual MAF at all. Any suggestions??

Thanks
Sam

EDIT: It also runs and idles fine if I switch it back to the stock ecu. The problem stays if I unhook the autotune while EMB is connected though.

 

No ideas? I'd like to fix this when I go home next for Thanksgiving.

 

Is it a new EMB, or is it possible that the old map and settings are still in it? Did you set the switches at 3-A-O?

 

It's used, I set the switches to 3 A O and zeroed out all of the maps. Is there something I may have missed that the previous owner could have changed?

 

The jumpers inside the case may be changed. Match them to the manual.

Next thing to check is the boomslang. Make sure that the wires run from one connector to the other at the same position, then make sure that it has all the wires (and no more) that your ECU connector has.

 

The EMB was on a 1.6 Miata before, are the jumpers different between 1.6 and 1.8?

 

No, but possibly they were changed to try to do something else.

 

I'll have to check into that when I'm home, thanks.

 

What year is your Miata?

I believe the 1.8s also require some type of resistor converting the maf voltages. And thats actually what I'm trying to figure out is the whole ordeal with the resistor on my '05.

 

It's a '96. I haven't heard anything about a resistor in the MAF signal before.

 

for sure, you need to install a resistor for the EMB in the MAF itself. now which resistor you need is something i dont know.

 

Hmm, I'll have to check into that. Does anyone know exactly what size resistor I need? Does it just go on the MAF signal or the output?

EDIT: After searching, some of the guys with NBs mention a 1K ohm resistor, but I'm still unclear on where it goes.

EDIT 2: I just read on the yahoo group that some NA 1.8's use 3-A-3 instead of 3-A-0 on the rotary switches. Maybe I'll try that, too.

 

Well, I'm going home for the weekend, so I'll inspect the boomslang harness, the jumpers, and try switching to 3-A-3 (that can't hurt anything, right?).

Still haven't figured out exactly what to do with a resistor and the MAF.

 

Update:

The jumpers are set up correctly.

I tried 3-A-3 and it started slightly easier, but still get the P0100 cel.

Looking at the readout on my computer while it is running, the MAF input is like 1.7V while the MAF output reads zero (whether the rotary is at 3-A-0 or 3-A-3). I didn't remember seeing this before. I guess I'll start inspecting the boomslang harness, though I hate to believe that my $200 harness was made incorrectly.

 

The wires all appear to be in the correct positions, including the airflow output wire. I don't see why the emanage isn't outputing any voltage, and it doesn't seem that a resistor on the MAF itself would affect the output from the emanage.

Someone help

 

If it is reading a variable input, all the jumpers are correct, and the switches are set correctly, it sounds like the Emanage is defective.

 

Is there any way for me to test it?

 

On my 96 the EMB didn't like the MAF connection either. So I just omitted it. BS harnesses have made mistakes in the past.

94-97's 1.8L DO NOT USE THE 1K RESISTOR

Hope this helps

 

Finally another person with EMB and OBDII experience!

So you just tuned off of the MAP sensor without issue? Will the autotune still work without MAF signal?

 

Autotune feeds a signal to the Emanage TPS input. For timing you will need either a MAF or MAP (preferably MAP) input to the Emanage. If your MAP(pressure sensor) input and MAP sensor is present, you do not need the MAF signal for Autotune.

I would wonder, however, why you show an input and no output. Are you sure all your grounds are common?