O2 clamp but car is still running lean help please
 

Installed the o2 clamp and the car still leans out on top end. i even get a hesitation around 4000rpm maybe even a detonation after it passes 4000rpm it pulls fine again. what could be the issue here. my log is below with the appropriate file.
log http://www.mediafire.com/?0ygjzlbugxe
file http://www.mediafire.com/?5dz44idiyfx

please help me out and if i need to make any changes let me know .

Maybe i have some ideas.

Don´t start an autotune run with "0"´s in the i/j map. You would run lean until the emu correct´s it, and you will get some nice detonations
Use something about "25" instead of "0" in the upper boost and rpm area.
It is going to run very rich, but the emu correct´s them down after some time.
And use an 1sec start time and 0,5% feedback amount in the a/f target setting.
Also i would recommend to disable your unused map´s, only for a clean overview.

Also change the voltage of your o2clamp to something about 0,38V.
An easy way to check the correct setting of the clamp is to activate the clamp in idle, set the tps in the afr target parameter to 1% (to start the autotune) and look at the corrections made by the emu in the i/j map. If the correction factor is about +/- 1 the clamp is set fine.

Which firmware are you using ?

+1 on this. The Autotune isn't magic- you are best using it to refine a rough map, rather than generating a new one from scratch. Here's my stab at a starting point for your I/J 1 map:

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/2...suggesttd1.gif


To generate this I simply put "80" in the leftmost (500) and rightmost (8000) cells of the +10 PSI row, then selected the whole area shown highlighted, and used the "interpolate 4 corners) function. In this setup it will probably run rich initially, but it gives the autotune a much easier job to do.
Later on in the process perhaps. For now I think the 2% feedback is a good place to start. Initially he's going to be making very coarse corrections- once Autotune has had a chance to get most of the cells close, then dial it down to 0.5% to do some fine-tuning.

I'd also suggest that you fill out the portions of the A/F target map below 2,000 RPM, just for kicks.

His clamp was pre-set to 0.37 volts when shipped. Should be good to go.
It's simpler than that. You don't need to tweak the TPS or AFR stuff, just go to the Aux Output map and manually switch all the cells to "ON" while observing the WBO2 sensor. When the clamp engages, the ECU will drive the idle mixture very rich. (It will eventually throw a CEL on an OBD-II system as well.)

i am using the 2.13 update on the system. thanks for the info really appreciate it.

You are absolutly right.
I only recommended my procedure because it shows a little bit the routines of the emu. The benefit is a little learning effect and practice with the emu.

But finally i have to say Joe, there is nothing more to say :bowdown::bigtu:
I feel so unworthy now ;)
Sometimes i´m angry about my "slow" english, it tooks a lot of time to write something. But it will get better.

great help guys
How does my ignition map look
i have a decent size front mount and am running 93 octane. no water methanole yet. could that cause my detonation. or should i retard it a bit more. i am running a open wastegate and so i can not hear many pings or anything else. i want to run on the safe side.





for my friend chico vielen danke ich wohnte in deutschland 5 jahren Regensburg bereich.

alle deutschen, wie gehts? mein deutscht ist sehr schlecht...prost
i love this stuff

Please, I did not mean to offend. I realize that I sometimes seem argumentative- it is not my intention to belittle anyone for offering advice. I think you are correct about learning and practice.

Also, you speak English much better than I speak German. :bigtu:

so i am safe to assume if i retard timing 1.5 deg per psi that i should be on the safe side?

Ich benutze einen ubersetzer aus meinem Deutsch, denn ich kann nicht lesen oder sprechen eine lecken werden.

das ist sehr gut scott, ich kann dich deutsch unterrichten und do kanst mir MS erklären...
i cheated a bit

ok what can i say, you guys are life savers once again. drove the car and everything seamed to be great. A/f is great and the car runs strong. so strong that i don't have a clutch any more. Thanks for making it work i really appreciate everything. :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowd own::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:: bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdo wn::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

Good to hear that it's working for you.

As an aside, I would suggest rescaling your maps. You don't need all those rows in the non-boosted area (two rows will handle it: one at -14.5, the next at -1) however I would suggest adding more headroom at the bottom. Even if you don't *plan* to ever run at 15 PSI, you should have some data there to cover yourself if the turbo occasionally spikes that high.

i will do that asap since the turbo does sometimes spike more than i want it to. I am using a super 60 and it just wants to spool, great thing though. thanks for the heads up Joe and should i just put the values for my fuel map you provided earlier in the 15 psi cell the number 80 and do the same i did for 10psi. thanks again.
-jasko

Don't forget to rescale your A/F Target and Ignition maps as well.

it would be a bad idea to forget but i am currently working on it Thanks for the heads up.:bigtu::bigtu:

Nicht schummeln, :gay: schummeln ist schwul.

Translate that :D

Let´s make a german ms guide, yeah, i would like that. :bigtu:

Translater from german to english are always funny.
Your translation at the end of the sentence means, that you would lick an chick. Nice :naughty:

Nice, welcome to the dark side.

By the way, which base timing does your car have?

i am assuming that i am running 10deg BTDC than am pulling 1deg per psi.

haha, ich bin nicht schwul...ich ferstehe schummeln, aber mein deutsch ist uber schlecht...
hope that makes any sense

MUSANOVIC is running 10* base...

Your understanding of german is not so bad, you passed the test. :bigtu:
Maybe we start an course english/german here, first let us collect all the kinky words :naughty: ;) ;)

Your map looks not so bad, maybe you could pull a little bit earlier in the higher boost levels.
Here is my i/g setup, depending on 12deg BTDC and an max boost round about 8,5 to 10 PSI (i use kg/cm2 units, so the map looks a little bit weird after changing to PSI).
I reduce on max boost to 8deg BTDC because i lowerd my compression with an metall plate, for your setup i would prefer to go to 6deg BTDC.

http://www.freenet-homepage.de/eddie...uez/mx5/ig.jpg

metal plate? what do you mean? u running different cylinder head gasket? i have read on some posts about the timing and everyone seams to retard 1deg per psi. Joe even mentioned that he had to retard 1.5deg on some occasions. This is my weakness. i just want to run the car on the safe side now till the Water injection is installed. That is why i posted a new thread about a standalone Knock sensor that can be added. do they have better knock monitoring in Deutschland that we can explore?

I have a plate between two cylinder head gasket to lower my compression, to prefent detonation.
But it´s really oldschool, wiseco are lying here for my new motor.
Don´t care about it your i/g setup, it is already ok.
I think water injection is also an good upgrade.

Here in germany unfortunatly whe have no knock system, we always look what you in the us are doing, here are not so good sources for the miata stuff.

A friend of me has this one bought in the uk, but not installed
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/Archiv...Black_Box.html

After turbocharging, I found that even with an intercooler my particular engine (on 91 R+M/2 fuel) tended to ping a lot. This was with 10°BTDC base (verified with a dial indicator on the piston) and a straight 1° of retard per PSI. I didn't use any magic formulas (or dyno time) at that point, I just set my ignition table to what wound up being about 1.5° per PSI, and that worked. I no doubt could have found a few extra HP by spending some time refining it on a dyno, but I was lazy.

Now that the WI is in I'm running a somewhat more aggressive map, though I am still pulling some timing. At 12 PSI at 4,000 RPM for example, I'm at 7° retard, decreasing to 4° retard by 6,000 RPM. Still haven't gotten off my arse and gone to the dyno yet. I'm sure that I can get more aggressive still.

Curious, but where do you set base timings at? Im just getting into this whole e-manage stuff and am still figuring things out. ;)

With an NA (90-97), you set base timing by jumpering the TEN-GND position in the diagnostic connector, loosening the lockbolt on the camshaft sensor and rotating it while observing the crankshaft pulley with a timing gun.

With NB, base timing sets you!

And I have an NB :(.. and im being told that 10deg BTDC is what it is stock anyways.. so im guessing I shouldnt need to mess with that anyways.