Variable tps mod for 1.6L
1 Attachment(s)
Hi all, just thought I'd post this in case its of any use to anyone with a 1.6 tps (on/off type) who is looking to upgrade to a variable tps :).
This works perfect, and is fairly easy to do. Variable tps is needed for e-manage ultimate features such as launch control and autotune. For this mini-project, I've used a 1.6 auto-transmission throttle body, with variable throttle position sensor, part number B6S8-18-911 These sensors can be found on e-bay, and are quite easy to find. Replacing the throttle body was a matter of convenience for me since I had one lying about, but it may well be possible to replace the stock sensor with the variable type with no hassle. Either way, the 1.6 auto TB was a straight swap, no agro. My biggest worry was the wiring side of things, but that was no hassle actually. This new tps has an inbuilt switch to feed the stock ecu with a 5V signal at idle. Most other variable tps's don't have this, and so can't be used. The wiring is as follows: Stock 1.6 tps sensor has 3 wires - red, green & black-lightgreen. New variable tps sensor has 4 wires - red, red-black, black-lightgreen, lightgreen-red. To fit the new sensor, solder red to red, and black-lightgreen to black-lightgreen. Solder green (stock sensor) to lightgreen-red (replacement sensor), and red-black (replacement sensor) is the tps signal. Thats it ! BTW, red is the 5V signal which the stock ecu requires at idle (or 0 throttle position), 5V drops to 0V at any other throttle position. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y15...3/100_2228.jpg The blue wire is for my tps input to the EMU. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y15...3/100_2230.jpg old throttle body Attachment 215758 |
not trying to diss or anything but that wiring looks pretty bad i hope you dont expect that to be final or anything. I personally try to use unshielded crimps and shrink tubing for my wiring, and I often use that corrugated tubing wrapped with electrical tape to protect it all as well.
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lol, the pictures were taken just after soldering to show you the wiring colours. That isn't how it looks now obviously or the wires would be shorting out :)
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why do you solder em twisted together like that? Do you solder and cap with wirenuts or something? I have always stripped each end, interlock the strands and maybe, but not always twist em a bit together and cover up with shrink tubing. Comes out real clean like that, but clean is mainly just to look nice and whenever my projects can look nice for little to no extra cost, i try to take the time to do it.
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Originally Posted by akaryrye
(Post 158527)
why do you solder em twisted together like that?
Originally Posted by akaryrye
(Post 158527)
I have always stripped each end, interlock the strands and maybe, but not always twist em a bit together and cover up with shrink tubing.
Originally Posted by akaryrye
(Post 158527)
Comes out real clean like that, but clean is mainly just to look nice and whenever my projects can look nice for little to no extra cost, i try to take the time to do it.
The above pictures indicate where to connect the wires, thats all. Not how to crimp, paint, heatshrink, polish, bling up, etc - there are other forums for that. But point taken; it doesn't really take pictures to indicate connect red to red, black-lg to black-lg, etc. :) Here's a picture from earlier today, still not quite finished though : http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y15...3/100_2237.jpg |
thanks for the information bud. im sure it'll b useful to me in the future = )
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No problem pal :)
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Does anyone know the correct Connectors for the tps??? I´m also connecting an auto TPS in my 91 NA, but my wiring wouldn`t be functional. How are the right wiring???????
Its very important for me, can anybody help me please? How are the originale Pins (original Colors) on the new 4Pins Connector from in correct order from Top to Down??? I Have: From the Top - 1. orig. greenwhite 2. new var. TPS Signal to EMU 3. orig. blackgreen 4. orig. red I get by the new TPS SIgnal for my EMU by 0% throttle 6,5 V and bei 100% throttle 5,9 V .... WHATS WRONG???? Jonny |
An even cheaper and easier mod is to use the signal from a gm 1 bar map sensor. I ran mine this way when i had an safc on my turbo escort.
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Originally Posted by mikeflys1
(Post 207388)
An even cheaper and easier mod is to use the signal from a gm 1 bar map sensor. I ran mine this way when i had an safc on my turbo escort.
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I just started this mod with the Automatic TB. But when i Check the signals (wired up), there is no vTps Signal that i can use.
BTW. RED is 12V for idle and LT GRN-WHT is 5V for WOT both 0V at their idle or WOT positions as they should get switched to BLK-LT-GRN (0V GND). So far for the original 3-Pin switch-type TPS. The automatic 4-Pin TPS doesnt get you the right signals when connected. If you test it unconnected, it seems to have 2 switches and a potentiometer but all pins where connected to each other internal by some resistors. So the output when connected to 12v, 5v and gnd is not equally to the 3-pin switch type TPS. e.g you dont get 0V at idle. its somewhere near 2,5V and so on. It seemed so easy but its very frustrating... So now my question... Will a Map sensor give me a reliable signal to go with on a NA setup? All i want is to set up the airflow Map to prevent the ECU from getting so ritch at higher revs. (gets up to A/F 9.5 above 7000) Thanks Michael |
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