What is Greddy E-Manage?
 

What is Greddy E-Manage, what does it do, and when should one aquire one for their Miata?

:confused: did you read the stickies or research at all???

This is not ask jeeves!

It's a blue rectangular box with wires going into one side. More than the ACU, but less than the EMU. When one determines that it is necessary, and not before.


http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/7476/searchzl2.jpg

http://www.greddy.com/products/?Category=electronics

go ahead and do yourself a favor.read on.

it is without a doubt THE best bang for buck thing you can buy for a MIATA if yur going turbo....WWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY BETTER THAN THAT PREHISTORIC AFPR/BIPES stuff....

Well, second-best. I'd call Megasquirt the best value the money, with EMU a strong second.

Thank you. Im going turbo shortly now, and am getting all the info i can before the install. I understand all the basic fundementals, but not all the computer stuff. Im waiting for Corkys book to make it to me, but until then, im left with sorting everything out without it.

Maximum Boost is without question *the* definitive reference to have on the matters of turbo sizing, intercooling, and so on.

However neither Corky nor any other author that I've come across has written a thorough guide to modern engine management via piggyback or full-replacement ECUs. For better or worse, you're going to have to learn that side of the project from us, from the various vendors' websites, and through brute force experimentation. :bigtu:

Seriously though. Tell us a bit about your car, your plans, your level of electronic / computer / mechanical ability (be realistic) and the emissions testing requirements of the city / state in which your car is registered.

Also, don't get too discouraged about all the wiseass remarks you're going to encounter here. We haze all the newbies.

well, ive got a 92 black and tan 1.6 with a jr cai and a 2.5 in catback with a good y split right after the cat which leads to a duel exhaust. between the y and the tips ive got a 2.5in custom made spiral wound muffler from a corvette guy. it sounds great. im working with (i believe) the screen name is adammx5 for my turbo setup. Soon to be Greddy TD04H-15G, vortech fuel pressure control, aftermarket fuel pump, and some other assorted goodies. Ive rebuilt a northstar, and an auto transmission. i have not done much with cars in the past 5 years sense im in school, but im getting back into it now.

oh yea, also ground control kit, KYB 8 ways, FM frt and rear anti sway bars and BBS14s.

Eeeeew. Never admit you have KYB AGX's here. :D Also, after you upgrade to Bilsteins or Illuminas, think about removing that rear sway bar.

Seriously- the Greddy kit is actually a very good place to start. And I'd wager that your 2.5" catback exhaust will be more than adequate assuming the muffler is any good. Since you've already got that, the first piece I'd add is a good quality downpipe- this is the pipe that goes from the turbine exhaust to the cat.. The piece that Greddy gives you is tiny and restrictive. The one to have is made by Bell Engineering. It's P/N 68020 for stainless, 68020 for regular steel: http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages..._turbosys.html
Buy this piece first, it's a thousand times easier to install at the same time as the turbo, rather than after.

When you get the Greddy kit, take all the bolts and washers to your local hardware store and buy Class 10.9 equivalents for them. The hardware Greddy gives you is garbage. (do not buy stainless, we specifically want Class 10.9, which is roughly the metric equivalent of SAE Grade 8) Also, buy a set of these washers for the union between the turbo and the manifold. Trust us.

Search around for "manifold cuts". Do them.

Assemble the turbo onto the manifold before you attach the manifold to the head. Use copper or nickel anti-seize compound on every threaded fastener.

Forget about the additional fuel pump. The stocker will be fine for now. When you upgrade to better engine management we'll be installing larger injectors, and the stock fuel pump will still be fine then.

thats some good info. i havnt heard about the metric 10.9s. why 10.9s and not the grade 8. everywhere i look people suggest the grade 8s. And- what kind of power changes can i expect with the upgrades dp? at 6 psi, im expecting around 145hp.

Because they're stupid.

Grade 5, Grade 8, etc., are SAE classifications. As such, they are generally applied only to imperial-sized fasteners. So a 3/8"-16 TPI bolt might commonly be found in a Grade 8 spec.

Class 8.8, Class 10.9, etc., are ISO classifications. These two in particular are similar to SAE grades 5 and 8 respectively, however these Class specifications are generally applied only to mertic-sized fasteners. So an M10x1.5 bolt might commonly be found in Class 10.9, and will have comparable specifications for hardness, torque, and so on to the aforementioned 3/8-16 Grade 8 bolt.

Since the Greddy kit is based on a Japanese-made turbo and manifold, it uses metric threads. Thus, they won't be Grade anything, because those specs don't apply to metric bolts.

At 6 PSI, the difference will not be significant. However nobody stays at 6 PSI for long. Once the HP bug bites you'll be upgrading, and the freer-flowing downpipe will give you better turbo efficiency and less heat. Exactly how much HP difference can you expect? I have no idea. Too many variables. A good DP is just one more ingredient in a well-designed system. Folks are used to reading magazine ads where a vendor claims that "This intake will give you exactly 12 HP." That sort of thing is utter BS. You cant attach an exact HP value to any given part without knowing what the rest of the system looks like.

it all makes sense. thanks for the advice.

M y
A ss
R ides
I n
N avy
E quipment

Daily schedule for the Navy:

1- Wake up.
2- Shower.
3- Have coffee.
4- Deploy Marines.

if only we could be lazy as you sailors

:bigtu:

haha proof that marines are dumb at times....but hey, at least we got the job done!

semper fi!