1.6 Link MK1 install barely starts/weird RPM
 

I plan on installing a 1.6 M45 supercharger on my fathers 1990 1.6 Miata just to get him the little extra power he wants. Instead of bandaids we found a used Link ECU for a 1.6 and grabbed that.

Aparently its a 1.6 MK1 version link ecu and came with the touch pad, cable , ecu, Serial-link and MK1 MAP sensor. The previous owner tried to install the knock sensor, boost control, wideband and IAT by upgrading the board and only the Wideband worked?

The car ran perfectly before. The ecu was installed on a bone-stock 1.6(other than header/exhaust/1.8 injectors). reloaded the N/A stock injector settings with the narrowband O2, AT turned off, MK1 Map turned on, idle set for 850 etc.

Plugged ecu in and ran the touch pad line. as well as removed the afm air box, plugged the MAP into the arm harness and ran a vac line to the intake manifold. Crossover pipe is just open atm until I get the car running right.

The car will just crank over and over and over. unless I touch the throttle. then it will run on its own but BARELY. It will idle at 200-400rpm and sounds like a tractor and is very rough. Pressing on the throttle will get the rpm to raise but it is sluggish. I have also noticed the RPM is way off. Car shows 300 but the unit shows 900. at 1000rpm the touch pad shows almost 2000rpm.

Whole Kit (IAT NOT USED)

Attachment 183890

Software version

Attachment 183891

Map Bottom

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Map Top

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ECU back

Attachment 183894

ECU Back Resistors close up

Attachment 183895

ECU Front

Attachment 183896



(A video soon once Bluetooth stops shitting on my day)

Any help or ideas?

Raised Master Fuel up to 140 and it started up better and ran rough.

Cyl 2 and Cyl 3 arnt getting spark when the wires are removed. But the car ran fine about 5 hours ago when the stock ecu was pulled?

Swapped coilpacks to the other 1.6 ones from my car and the same thing. The 2/3 cyl coilpack was not firing from either.

Is there a way to check this on the ecu itself?