The COP conversion is done and works better than I expected. But I can't get the OEM coils out. I've removed the bolts on the left and the right, and disconnected the plug going to the harness. The only other fasteners I see are the 4 screws on the coil packs themselves that look like a PITA to get too, and a strange bolt on the back of the bracket. I can't find a wrench that fits the bolt, and I can't get to two of the screws on the coils. Do I have to remove the valve cover and other stuff to get the stock coils off?

BTW a few of you gave me pointers on my earlier Megasquirter issue, after talking to Matt, I picked an new O2 sensor, calibrated it, and started tuning again. My car is running pretty good for only a few sessions with MLV. It was the senors all along causing crazy readings.

You have to remove that bolt.

Pulling the valve cover won't help. It's just one of those "Fuck you, Mazda" things where you need a short combination wrench and some patience. You find an angle where the wrench will fit on (I approach it sideways, from the vicinity of the heater hoses), rotate the bolt about 1/16th of a turn, remove the wrench and flip it over, find another angle to fit it on, rotate the bolt another 1/16th of a turn, remove the wrench and flip it over, rinse, repeat.

After three or four hours of this, the bolt will have rotated by two or three turns and be loose enough that your three year old neice will be able to reach in there and turn it the rest of the way by hand, assuming she is double-jointed and can dislocate her thumb at will.

ive never had an issue getting that bolt with a simple 12mm racketing wrench.

It didn't feel like a 12, I thought the wrench just spun around it, I'll go at it again tonight. It looks like the removal frees up a lot of space behind the head.

it's an odd shape, but i fit a regular wrench over it.

Once I knew I wasn't wasting my time on some strange bolt it came right out. It looks like I may have had an oil leak. Nothing fresh, but its pretty grimey. I changed my CAS O-ring last month, and that may have been the source, but not matter what its pretty cool, since I can actually get back their now.

What sort of trigger does it take for the COP? I would like to make a trigger to make the spark plug fire. I don't have the ECU at this time. Have the COP 90080-19015. Does anyone have the resistance between pins? I show pins 1 & 2 at 350 ohms and pins 2 & 3 are very high to almost infinity. Pin 1 goes to GND; pin 2 is the trigger input; and pin 4 is the battery 12 volts. Pin 3 is the tach but I don't care about that. Could one just ground the trigger wire and then break the connection to create a trigger?

Thanks for any info in this regard. HAL

Applying +5 volts to the trigger input causes the coils to "turn on" and begin charging. When you remove the +5 trigger, the coil fires.