1992 1.6 Flyin Miata stage2 with LINK ECU- What are the limitations?
 

Hey Everyone.

I have the link for my turbo 1.6 miata. Does not seem to be too popular from my lurking on this site. Mine is from 2006 I believe (bought the car used). It was the FMII Turbo kit with link ecu.

I just drove the car for a year since I bought it fixing little things and refeshing all fluids. its set at 8-13psi. Other than adjust boost (I turn down to 8psi for heat issues during) I did nothing else. But now Im trying to get the car refreshed a bit, and some more power.

How much power can I safely handle? My goal is like 275whp on high boost (drag) and 230-250whp (lapping). Assume thermally the car is well sorted, aswell as having an innovate wideband sensor, and egt sensor before the turbo for calibrating. I just have that little black box to mess with, I do not have the cable to hook up via laptop or the software to do that either. Is that possible with this system or no?

If anyone is set up making decent power on one of these systems, please comment on what you have done.

Thanks

I can't speak to the link's limitations. What cooling modifications have you made? Drivetrain modifications?

250whp is going to require significant upgrades in heat management and drivetrain in a 1.6 car, and quite a bit of work in a 1.8 car.

You need a serial link and dataloglab software. It is well worth it because it simplifies tuning. If you arent concerned about squeaking every ounce of percormance out of your car. I.e. competitive, racing, then i think it is fine. I liked my link when i had it. I belive it will run up to 18psi, and i think it can run larger injectors.

Heat management so far

-Coolant re-route
-koyo 53 or 54mm rad
-Ducted oil cooler in the wheel well
-Ducted rad

To be done over winter
-Front splitter
-Ducted intercooler
-heat ducts in the hood
-EGT sensor and probe, Wideband Sensor, Coolant Sensor, Oil Temp sensor

Drivetrain

-Torsen 4.1
-Stock transmission
-Happy Meal Clutch
-Full FM2 turbo kit

To be done
- ported/polished/gasket matched head/intake, and light refresh (lap the valves, new seals ect)

keep it between 12-15psi, which should keep torque under 250rwtq. Beyond that your rods are the weak link.

No need to bother with an EGT gauge; waste of time/money

Why is the max 18 psi? The link cant handle more tables? If that is the case I guess its better to keep the motor higher compression.

I would ideally like the motor refreshed with new bearings and rings and light head work within the next year. If 18psi is the limit, maybe I should toss in new rods so I can safely play in that area without worry.

Sounds like I might be able to reach a 250whp target more realistically. I gotta run on the rolls and see what im running right now.