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I’m feeling a bit like an imposter since my Mazda isn't an MX-5, but rather a '98 323. However, I need some help! Here’s the rundown:
The car is currently with the tuner and arrived as a non-starter due to a P1300 "trigger sync error." The tuner managed to get it started by changing the "tooth count till start" to 4. He sorted out a few other minor issues and finally got it on the dyno, where it made 125 kW at 6 psi—pretty good for a little FWD.
However, after taking it for a test drive and returning to the shop, the car wouldn’t start again and we encountered the Trigger Sync Error again. Strangely, the timing light wouldn’t pick up the timing marks near TDC, even though the timing in the Haltech NSP hadn't changed. We adjusted it 5 degrees out, which brought the timing marks back, but the car still won’t start.
Just to give you some context:
- Maruha 272 IN/EX cams
- T2871 turbo
- Miata camshaft sensor (instead of the distributor)
- Audi R8 coils
Our current focus is getting the car started again. It was running well before, but now we’re stumped. We’ve tried a new cam sensor, checked the wiring, etc., but can’t figure out why we're getting this sync error again. The tuner mentioned that it’s odd because the RPM reads while cranking but then drops out.
I'm considering whether it’s worth installing a 36-2 trigger wheel and adding a crank sensor off the balancer, or if that might make any difference. If anyone has any insights, I’d greatly appreciate it! I’ll include some photos below and the full build list at the bottom
First off, don’t feel like an imposter, your 323 is just as much a Mazda as any MX-5, and it sounds like you’ve got an incredible build going. 125 kW at 6 psi is nothing to scoff at, especially on a front-wheel-drive setup. You’re clearly putting in the work, so let’s try to figure this out together.
The trigger sync error and timing issues are definitely frustrating. Since the camshaft sensor is central to this, I’d start by double-checking its alignment and the air gap between the sensor and the target wheel. Even the smallest misalignment can throw off the signal and cause intermittent issues like this. Also, considering the high-energy Audi R8 coils you’re using, it’s worth ensuring the cam sensor wiring is shielded properly to prevent interference, which can cause signal dropouts during cranking or running.
The idea of switching to a 36-2 trigger wheel and adding a crank sensor is a solid one. Crank triggers generally provide a much more reliable and precise signal, which could eliminate these sync problems altogether. While it’s a bit of extra work to install, the payoff in reliability and performance is often worth it, especially with a setup as tuned as yours.
Another angle to consider is the Haltech settings. Since you’re already tweaking things like “tooth count till start,” it might help to revisit the trigger settings and ensure they’re perfectly calibrated for your specific setup. Sometimes, re-syncing the ECU or slightly adjusting the tooth offset can help resolve persistent errors. Also, since your tuner noticed the RPM signal dropping during cranking, it’s possible there’s a power supply issue affecting the sensor or ECU. Checking for consistent voltage during cranking might uncover the root of the problem.
Hang in there. With a setup this impressive, you’re so close to getting it dialed in. If you’ve got photos or data logs, they might provide more clues, but I’m confident you’re on the right track. Keep us posted
Last edited by sixshooter; Dec 8, 2024 at 04:08 PM.
98' BP05 Haltech Trigger Sync Error
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