Almost too embarrassed to post this(base timing)
 

Well the o ring on my CAS was in need of replacement so I read a few DIYs before attempting the job. Well being the dumbass I am, thought I could just mark it after I pulled it:vash:. Well I shortly realized that I done f*cked up. So now I've got a CAS with only a general idea of where it was set before. So I changed the o ring and reinstalled it hoping I would be able to find where it was. Well I got it running, but the car wasn't happy at all. Rough idle AFRs everywhere. Well then I adjusted a few more times, nothing made the car happy. And then I wasn't even able to start it anymore. Like it doesn't want to start it runs so rough. And at that point I gave up before I hurt something. So I went this morning read DIYs and bought a timing light. But I do not feel confident on how to use the timing light, or any idea where I need to set timing. I kinda need this spoon fed to me:hustler:. My car is on a Haltech E6K ECU and I am currently looking for a tuner because the tune on there now just stumbles past 1/2 throttle. So I would really like to just get this car running again so I can get to a tuner or something. IDK WTF I am doing and I am in over my head. Help me please.:noob: I would just like to get the timing set basically so that I can make the car run correctly. Back to where it was before. Then when I get it to a tuner he can set it all for performance purposes. So basically, I took my 3 day old(to me) turbo miata that I was cruising around in the sunshine in, and stranded it my garage to fix a tiny oil leak:sadwavey:. FML. HELP!:bowrofl:

Get a Haynes manual, that'll help a lot.

I know nothing about your ECU, but for the stock car you want to put a jumper (paper clip) between GND and IG-(I think, double check that in the Haynes manual you just bought). These pins are in the diagnostic connector, driver side fender. This gets the stock ECU ready for you to set timing.

There should be three leads on your timing light. The one that's different should be clipped AROUND (not on) the #1 spark plug wire. The other two should be black and red aligator clips, which need to be clipped on to ground and 12V power respectively. Ground is easy enough, power can come from that same diagnostic connector from one of two B+ pins. CAUTION: make sure your previous paper clip for GND and IG- don't touch the B+ pin, melt down will occur. Alternatively, power can be had from anywhere else you can find it.

Point the light at the crankshaft pulley and pull the trigger, adjust the CAS till the mark on the pulley lines up with 10* on the timing belt cover.

Again, this is all in the Haynes manual you just bought, with pretty pictures.

Does the Haltech EMS "assume" that you have the base timing set at 10 degrees BTDC? Here is the OEM process of setting the timing:

1. Warm up engine and make sure idle is 850rpm +- 50 rpm..then shut it off
2. Hook up timing light on #1 plug wire
3. Connect jumper wire (or paper clip) between terminals TEN and GRD on the test connector (located near the brake master cylinder)
4. Start car and check timing by pointing light at timing marks on crank pulley/timing indicator.
5. Rotate CAS to get 10 degree mark lined up correctly
6. Remove jumper wire and recheck timing to make it advances when engine RPM increases

You should note that some EMS systems (Link for instance), have a unique timing setting procedure (the Link does not require using a jumper wire and requires you to manually enter a "set timing" software mode). I would suggest checking your Haltech manual before attempting to set the timing using the OEM procedure. Good luck.

Alright, well I'm just trying to make this damn thing run. I am only setting ignition timing and I have no idea exactly where it is supposed to be so I didn't bother with the timing light. Instead I messed with the CAS more, and it seems like wherever I adjust the thing, the car still misses and runs like it's on 2 cylinders.

Oh ya and when starting it cranks for a second or two, then bogs like it's dying, then turns over.

sounds like too much fuel during cranking. but follow post #3.

Well now I'm really worried. The motor lurches before turning over and misses badly while running no matter where the CAS is set it seems. I'm really starting to get worried here. All I did was remove the CAS and reinstall with a different o ring and now it runs terribly.