FYI: "Fanny" in the UK, Australia and New Zealand is slang for "Vagina" so this reads REALLY wrong.

Good my word choice wasn't lost on some then :D
Except I thought it was the male parts. Any who...

Loaded the new base tune. Scaled sensors again. Fired up exponentially better, night and day difference. No kickback pops or stutter. Still needed a touch of throttle. Wue kicked in and ramped down quite nicely. Closed the throttle bypass and got her down to 1500. Turned on open loop idle control and she went smack down to 850! Didn't bugger with any of the settings. Then she started oscillating as the ve cell value detlas we're significant down at that ve cell area. Evened them out and restarted and it started so much better. So it was good progress. Did not try heat soaked startup. Keep in mind my iat is not in an easily heat soaked area. Tuner is stopping by Wednesday to take another crack at it.

My friend that drifts miatas is interested to see how this turns out as he has been running a voodoo box on 8psi and is on his 3 motor in a year?????

Tuner is much happier. VE table is 60% done and wife is happier so we will hopefully finish up Friday on my off day.
Still an issue with hot and it leaning out.
Just found ase based off of ignition cycles under warm up. Going to play with that when I get home :)
Getting better!

keep us updated!

Finally figured out some things. Figured crank settings as well as wue ase.
Just retuned ve settings and she is running well without any ego correction with all lookup correction tables disabled. Installing knock ears to go add some timing.
Long story short this is a learning curve and has challenged the tuner a bit as it is not conventional megasquirt tunning. We have "passionately" discussed some shit and figured it out mostly, this is a poke the bear scenario but.

Verdict from tuner is yes this was definitely worth the investment.
I agree.
Also got three stickers coming from ausie land :D

Can you elaborate on what is so different about megasquirt tuning?

In the mean time I got mine working good exept for cranking settings. on cold stars it struggles a little bit. warm seems ok. I have to say I was maybe spoilt because it was starting really in no time with oem ecu, from 0 to 90° water temp, for a 20yo engine is not bad at all.

Would you share your msq?

I have to say I'm impressed in how easy it was to bring it to a point my butt dyno cannot easilly say if it's still the OEM ecu or not, someone who is not used to drive my car wont ever be able to discern.

And this for me being the first time ever I install and tune a programmable ecu speaks volumes. of course we will see in the future about the reliability of the thing but I can't see many weak points, and honestly.at 200$ for a PNP unit is a no-brainer.

Mine has been the opposite. x) Then again I am on a fairly old firmware and apparently this has been fixed.

You can afford to just keep a spare in the glove box!

Not trying to be hyper critical here as this is still in beta. I realize that, so some things I may mention are going to make me sound like a dick but it's what we dealt with.

Instant low hanging fruit is that the cells only want whole values. This may be due to limiting the processing power of the Arduino itself, I understand that. Or it forces you into a cell value, say I want it to be a value of 36, it's either 35 or 37. Again that may be easier for the unit to process. Some tuners want that n'th degree of tuning. It doesn't really bother me.

We have gotten it back to starting again. If we disable the priming pulsewidth to zero we get really really hard starting, like it doesn't start. If you look at the speeduino wiki the cranking enrichment % is not there as that may have moved to another menu. I'm not looking at the tune right now on my laptop. I really need to configure the gauges better. It would be super nice to be able to control the iac valve under this cranking area as well, maybe that's a feature that could be added later so that you don't have to throttle the pedal to get her to crank, that's my only big grumble as the stock ecu started better than my Toyota Tacoma or my 2005 wrx. Even after sitting for a week!

I'm wondering how we can get this to work now such that we could get shadow dash to work with it (have not tried it but don't know how to get it to work or if that is even possible), but I would like to monitor not on my laptop.

In the mean time we are scheduling a Dyno tune session for March 10th with the speeduino.

to summarize your points:
1) lack of "precision", honestly I didn't notice that issue with cell values but I noticed on the load axis if I put 25 it sometimes become 26. does not bother me, ecu is always using some interpolation anyway.
yes values in the map are limited as integer number but I honestly don't know who is going to want to tune 0.5% of a VE map? you have the AFR so STABLE it does not already fluctuate more than 1% ( for example from 13.86 to 14.14 instead of being fixed at 14.00?

2) cranking enrichment, I see the usual Enrichment Curve with 4 temperature based points.

https://thumb.ibb.co/jnVsYx/crank.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/mE6ALc/crank.jpg

3) cranking IAC values, there is a bug in the base tune so the 4 bins are one over the other. easy fix editing the MSQ, I just proposed this change so it will be hopefully fixed soon.

https://thumb.ibb.co/ha2mRH/iac.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/mhxaLc/iac.jpg

I don't think it's gonna help because 0% should already be fully open?

4) I don't see why shadowdash should not work once you add a Bluetooth module. mine is on its way for 5$ shipped...

https://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php...es_.2F_Tablets

keep us updated on how the Dyno goes ;)

Ordered amazon fire 7" tablet, and usb to bluetooth as well as mounts so we dont have to cart around the laptop for monitoring, really excited about this

I have posted the current tune. Cranking is still not happy, spark is ok, no knock confirmed with knock ears. VE is ok. Running sams club 93 octane.
1992 na6 miata
raceland header
k and n cone filter jammed into stock intake tube with air box and afm removed as well as box. GM IAT screwed into very tip of k and n filter
running automatic miata throttle body with new vtps from autozone
This is a tune that works for our car, download and upload at your own risk, ymmv, not responsible if the breaks your car.
Attachment 219566
Attachment 219567
In the log you will see a super glitchy vtps, I have grounded the tps to the ecu ground, as well as the iat and the sensor ground for the o2

14point7s o2 sensor takes about a million years for it to warm up and its annoying.

In regards to the resolution, my tuner friend would tell Jesus how to make wine, some call it a character flaw, but he has earned the name rod knock for a reason... So it wasnt a huge deal.
It would be nice to have more cells rather than just 4 data points so you can really dial it in say on the cranking iac settings.

If any one wants to make recomendations on our tune, I am all freakin ears man.

Off to install aero on the mitata

Every setup is different, so it's possible that this may not apply to you, but keep in mind that all of these tables are interpolated. When you set the table you ONLY have to set values for the non-linear portion of the tune (whether it be for the IAC or any other function). If you (or your tuner) are wondering if 4 points are enough for a given task, ask yourself where the non-linear points of that function are and whether there are really more than 4 of them. I've never seen an IAC who's response was so non-linear that over its temp range you need more places, but it is possible.

As for the MAP axis values, yeah they do round, but honestly 99%+ of tunes will never need this precision. If you're fretting over 1kPa difference then you're really at the point of pushing the last HP out of an incredibly high strung motor, in which case this may not be the ECU for you. Keep in mind that, on the whole, the accuracy of these (and virtually all automotive MAP) sensors is really only good to +/-1 kpa at best anyway, taking into account temperature fluctuations etc. Having the ability to tune 1kPa values in the map doesn't really give you much due to this sensor movement.

That's my experience from setting up a few of these now anyway. People (and I'll be honest, tuners are a great one for this) do tend to get hung up on small things, but often don't consider how they fit in the whole system and what difference they actually make.

That is an awful place for your sensor. Since you don't have intercooler piping, there isn't really a "good" place for it, but as far away from the surface-of-the-sun hot exhaust manifold is best.

Just an FYI incase anyone else is interested. As everything seems to have gone smoothly with the 2nd beta run, I'll be putting in a small production run of 50 units in March once the Chinese New Year celebrations are over. These will be virtually identical to the beta 2 units, I'm just going to remove a few of the test points etc. Should be ready to go in early April.

Messed with the cranking timing and bumped to 8* and 12*. Seemed to start easier.

Having an issue with the unit connecting to shadow dash or Ms Droid. I'd like to connect through USB to my Amazon tablet. But it's not working.

noisymime, I will take one for sure, waited on the email for the 1st and 2nd runs, wasn't selected I guess, I NEED one ASAP

:confused: You were definitely on the notification email that went out.
Sorry about that, not sure what has happened there, I wonder if it ended up in Spam or something :(

OK so I tried plugging in a USB to blue tooth dongle and can not find the blue tooth after scanning searching. I purchased an Asus bt400 if that helps. Tried plugging in tablet directly to USB and it would not connect to msdroid which I think is better than shadow dash. Tablet would charge through USB connection. Amazon fire 7 is USB otg capable. Do I need a special otg cable to make this work? I am usually pretty good with tech stuff. Tablet is amazon fire 7. Any help?

I'm really interested in one of these, any updates for the march batch? Been itching to get my car on a standalone but cannot afford a full MegaSquirt.

These are in production at the moment, but still a few weeks away yet. I'll definitely post back once they're ready to go.

I have no idea about the usb OTG connection.

First of all, have you configured the bluetooth module? I think you need at least to set the baud rate. optional name and pin.

the procedure is in the wiki I linked before, but it can be different depending on which BT module you bought. any pic?

Have you gotten yours connected yet to one of the aps yet?
this is the one I purchased
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1500_.jpg

havent changed baud rate on it or set the pin number or anything. may give that a shot when I get home.
What are you using?

no wait a second, I meant a pic of the bluetooth module that you need to connect to the speeduino!

mine is working fine but only with tunerstudio from pc. haven't tried an app for now (need to steal an android device...)

Well, as is usually the case with these thing, they took a little longer than planned, but the production units have arrived and are ready to go if anyone is chasing them: https://speeduino.com/shop/index.php...roller=product

:)

The final version improved a few small things over beta 2, but was identical in terms of functionality.

hey noisy, want to pull the trigger on one, but is it compatible without modification to a EURO 1995 90hp NA6 (2 plug)? i have a 1.8 swap!
ah, and do you ship to germany?

I have it running fine on mine (1996 90hp, stock ecu was B6HA), the only issue was having to bridge pin 2F and 2G for the CAM signal.

not sure if a jumper pin or other has been added in the final version.

thank you, thats the information i need :)

Damn, it didn't I'm afraid. I will make sure it gets done for the next batch though.
There was a similar jumper added for a variant of the TPS between pins 2L and 2M, but somehow I missed that crank one :(

Hey noisymime, do you have a feature table or something that compares the speeduino to an MS3X, i.e. "MS3X does this, Speeduino doesn't," or vice versa?

placed an order, very excited :)

have you tried going to the respective websites and figure it out?

btw I would start by comparing speeduino with a ms2 with all the bells and whistles.

I haven't done a full write up or anything, but as lsdlsd88 mentioned, it's more aligned to a MS2Extra setup than an MS3. The MS2 is what the MS PNP units are based on, so I think they make for a good comparison on Miatas.

A lot of the additional features the MS2Extra firmware has probably won't be relevant to many in this audience. Things like transmission control, variable fuel pressure control, alternator control etc aren't currently supported. There's also a lot of areas where the feature is there, but may not have as many options are the MS (Eg Acceleration enrichment is TPS based only on the Speeduino compared to an optional MAP based AE on the MS). Partially this is simply because all these options take longer to develop, but also partially because a LOT of these options won't benefit most people and just cause confusion for people trying to get comfortable with tuning everything.
I've really aimed to add all the features that your general DIY builder/tuner is going to want, but without going over the top. Many (most?) people throwing an ECU on a Miata have similar use cases, they want to eliminate the AFM or add a turbo/supercharger or swap injectors etc. These are the things I've tried to cover off because I think it's ridiculous paying $800 for a PNP ECU just to do that.

On the other hand, if you want to do things like 4x EGT monitoring, turbo shaft speed control, complex traction control modes etc, then that's totally fine, but a $250 Speeduino probably isn't the ECU you're after.

Thanks, that helps!

speeduino ecu
 

How does this thing work, like in real world use? I am interested in getting one, but other than price, why should I get it over a megasquirt?
If I do get one, what about a base tune? I am not a tuning master and would prefer to have a simple system to tune, how complicated is this to use? I plan on a turbo system, boost gauge, wideband, ebc, injectors, ect.
how does it deal with timing, is it batch injection only, or can it do sequential, can it run individual coil packs? PM me if you have to. I just have several questions. I have read over the wiki link for speeduino, but still have questions. tia for any advice

Can answer a few of these...
in real world, it works! just how it should... it's in a development phase so a lot of stuff is changed/fixed/added every month in the firmware, do not expect a commercial product, with tech support and so on!

reasons to get it are a few, but yes mainly price, if you don't need A LOT of stuff but just want to run an engine.. open source code is really handy, if you understand about arduino programming (basically c++), you can do pretty much all you want.

base tune is included but is only for N/A as far as I know. you will have to have it tuned professionally AS ANY programmable ecu if you want maximum performance AND reliability.
for now is batch or semi-sequential injection, but it has 4 injector drivers so it's only a matter of implementing it in the software side, no idea when it will be done. anyway the world will not end if you run it in batch for some time. then when is available it's just software change, and eventually refine the tune.

ignition is also batch only, you can use stock coilpacks, or COP, from what I know you just need the right dwell settings and so on but hardware wise should not be a problem.

you can head over to speeduino forum and also speeduino SLACK to get in touch with a lot of users ;)

Are you planning on making these available for NA8's?

Any issues running A/C on these?

The NA8s with the 48-pin ECU will work fine with the current one.

The 64-pin requires a bit more work and unfortunately will have to cost a bit more. The size of the 64-pin connector means it has to go up to a PCB >100mm, which means it goes into the next price bracket. It also means a larger case, which will cost slightly more again.
I have started the work on these, but not sure when they'll be ready yet. I will need testers though if you're interested...?

lsdlsd88's answers are pretty much spot on and I think he covers most things. I will get around to writing the sequential for 4g63 patterns at some point, but keep in mind that on an NA6 you need to run 2 extra injector wires in order to use sequential as they didn't come with them originally (Except the Cali models).

If you get yourself a wideband, you can autotune up to a nicely drivable car pretty easily. It won't eek out every last horsepower like a dyno will, but it's pretty easy to get something that drives really nicely.

Thanks for the answer. Unfortunately, I'm not in a position to help test.

C

I have a '94 1.8, and maybe enough background to help out here. Let me know if you're looking for testers.

anyone got their speeduino from the last batch?

aussiepost is soooo slooooow :sleep: they got my package on 26th April and it didn't even left the country....

edit:
went with "fast shipping" aswell

Flick me a PM, I'll chase it up with them as that's not right at all. Even Aus Post normally aren't THAT bad.

^
Australia Post sucks big-time!
More than once it's taken goods only a couple of days from being shipped in the US to arrive in Australia, only then to sit around for 3-4 days in an Australian warehouse before being delivered.
If your goods incur duty, add about another 10 days to that.
I was very proactive when I received my MS3-Pro, I tracked the package all the way and submitted all the forms electronically when it arrived without waiting to receive the hard-copies and it still took 5 days!

UPS or FedEx are MUCH better shipping options, even if they're more expensive.

USPS should be avoided at all costs since it's a crapshoot whether or not you'll receive your goods.
USPS lost 2 of my packages within the US (the last tracked positions were their arrivals in USPS facilities) and they simply washed their hands of them because they were destined for another country.
I can understand their position if the goods had arrived in Australia so were completely outside their control but both were lost in the US, inside USPS facilities so I'll never use them again.

magically it arrived a few minutes ago in frankfurt/germany. i have to apologize to auspost :giggle:

Mine arrived (East Coast USA) yesterday, ordered April 24. On to VTPS issues.

Are you sure the NA8 with 48 pin ECU will work? My 94 1.8 is a 48 pin and if you confirm it works i will order one straight away.

Teach kid to tune
 

Hello Experts !!!

Well, Here's my story....

I had a MS years back and sold it.

My son is now older, loves cars and somewhat trying to learn from me.

I'm looking to the Speeduino PnP for my 91 as an inexpensive way to teach him what I know about aftermarket ECUs and tuning them.

Am I on the right track ????

Thank you very much in advance for your feed- back and information.

Yep it should. The only variation I've seen so far that currently doesn't work out of the box is the '95-'98 Euro 1.6s, which require 1 jumper wire to be added (There's a post on it slightly higher in this thread).

I've seen 2x 1.8s with the 48-pin plugs up and running on these now.

Thank you very much !! I'm trying to make time to read this entire thread.

So, very keen on getting/building one of these. What would be needed to run true sequential ignition and injection on a US market 1.6? I'm assuming a different (individual) coil setup and adding wires to break the injectors out of pairs? Also, it seems the current setup uses a PCB-mounted MAP sensor with a vac line running to it, is it possible to use a manifold-mounted MAP sensor (e.g. late-model GM maybe?) and just add wires/pins? Forgive any ignorance I may have, still new to the ECU game.

Also, will this run fine off the 1.6 CAS or is it recommended to add a crank reluctor? Will the arduino want/accept independent crank and cam position signals? thanks!

You certainly could, but why would you bother? Running a vacuum line is very simple, much simpler than mounting a new sensor and running the 3 wires for it IMHO. There's also more risk of noise on the signal lines with an under bonnet MAP. Was there a reason you want to go that way?

It runs fine with the stock CAS, but that CAS obviously has limitations. It's low resolution and it suffers from any wear in the valve train components etc, which are just inherent problems with that setup. Using the Yoshifab 12-1 trigger disk is one option that a few people have gone with and seen good results. Moving to something like a 36-1 wheel on the crank is the best option for accuracy, but is a considerable amount of work.

Hmm, I read on https://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/MX5_PNP that an IAT was needed if I were to delete the AFM. I plan to delete the AFM.

Adding the IAT is fairly simple, but doesn't require you to add a separate MAP sensor as well. Most people go with the standard GM IAT sensor as its cheap (I sell them for $22 with a wiring pigtail) and easy to install. You can just about get away without one if you're in a place where the temp doesn't vary too much and you're NA, but it's recommended to have one.

I see. I misunderstood the other poster's question then.

I looked at the Speeduino shop (that's you, right?) but it said "This product is no longer in stock" for the GM IAT sensor so I bought an identical sensor with pigtail from diyautotune for $.49 more.

Ah, interesting. If anything I would've assumed it would get a cleaner/more sensitive MAP reading with the sensor directly in the manifold instead of reading via a meter+ of vac line. I feel like a shielded, twisted set of signal wires would yield a fairly clean signal, no?


Ok, good to know. Were I to run two seperate cam and crank signals, will the arduino read both? Is that just overkill? Of the two, I assume crank would be preferred to eliminate any timing belt slop?

Does the 48-pin connector have enough spare pins to run true sequential spark and fuel? I figure I can ditch the CEL and the two self diagnose pins, just would need one more.

Thank you for answering my (no-doubt) pedestrian questions. Very excited about this option.

How's the idle quality on this ECU ?

Yes, you get a more sensitive map reading and then you NEED to filter it in the software to hide the pulsation from intake valve opening events, adding filtering to a signal adds delay, and so on...

shielding low voltage signals from all the EM noise in the engine bay from coils, alternator, sometimes is really hard work (difficult to detect and can vary with ambient conditions), the less you depend on those signals the better it is.

found this also:
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...ecu-box-89909/

I only used open loop idle control and no issues, I can't really feel any difference from the stock ecu.

Sick!!! Do you also provide a 1.8 Base Tune? I have seen a few people that struggled to get their 1.8 started.

Going to order the ECU in a few weeks, so excited

In my opinion, the best setup is something like a 36-1 wheel on the crank and a single cam pulse. That gives you everything fast sync for starting, full sequential and good timing accuracy. It is a pain to get a 36-1 wheel onto the crank on these engines though, so I haven't seen a lot of MX5s/Miatas go that route (It's a VERY common setup on other vehicles though and very well tested with Speeduino).

It does for fuel (The California models run sequential as standard) and these boards have the drivers there already for it. You just need to cut 2 traces, which are designed for this.
Ignition is trickier though as there wasn't ever a version of these that had 4 drivers from the factory. These PNP Speeduino boards only have 2 ignition drivers on them, so they're limited to wasted spark, which is what the car is wired for. The generic v0.4 Speeduinos have 4 ignition outputs, but aren't as straightforward to wire in as the PNPs.

In my experiences I've found that 90%+ of people will be totally fine with open loop. It's what I run on my car and what the original ECU uses as well, so it should be enough. It's very easy to tune and typically delivers good results without much effort. The one thing missing up until now has been a 'high idle' input that can be used to compensate for things like the AC being turned on, but this has been added in this months firmware :)

Keep in mind that the IAC in these cars defaults to being partially open as a safety fallback position. So even if you turn idle control off completely, you tend to still get a good idle, just slightly high when it's warmed up.