Burning meter fuse after installing COPS
 

So I went ahead and I replaced the stock ignition system on a friend's 90 after getting misfires above 17psi. Got 12V from the igniter, ground on the head and tach out (from each coil) joined together and pulled up to 12V through a 1K resistor, connected to the TAC wire on the igniter wiring (yellow/blue IIRC).

Went for a drive, misfires are gone, everything works ok. Next day and after a few minutes of driving, the meter fuse burns out. Replaced it and its getting burned again.

Has anyone had this happen to him? I'm going to disconnect the tacho out and from the coils to the yellow/blue wire and see if that fixes it, but I'm curious if this has been seen before.

It seems that the problem is unrelated after all. I've disconnected the COPS, the ECU, the gauge cluster, the switch assembly and it still does it. I removed the fuse, and the non-powered pin in the fusebox is shorted to ground (ie 0.2Ohms between pin and ground).

I've checked the wiring diagrams and the meter fuse powers:

1) Gauge cluster (removed)
2) Switch assembly (removed)
3) Back-up lights (connectors unplugged on the rear light assemblies)
4) Power antenna (not equipped on this car)
5) Warning buzzer (same as above)
6) Cruise control/A/T (same as above)

I don't know (and can't check right now) how is the wiring to the back-up switch/lights. Does the wiring go like this:

a) Fuse -> Switch in tranny -> Light -> Ground

or

b) Fuse -> Light -> Switch in tranny -> Ground

Any ideas?

Problem solved. The garage that did the RX-7 tranny install didn't do the wiring properly on the back-up light switch. Electrical tape is NOT proper insulation. It caught some transmission oil, unwrapped and touched the tranny housing - short! Replaced the entire thing with good weatherproof connectors and the problem is gone now.

now by warning buzzer? is that the door is open buzz? or a different warning buzzer?