lol @ your fuel table. Ask your tuner why you're squirting more fuel at 5200rpm than 6500rpm, then tell him to fuck off, pull the head, inspect the pistons, call your attorney, then drive the car to one of the MiataTurbo trusted member/tuners and pay them. There is absolutely, positively no excuse for a fuel table that looks like that from anyone...from a "professional tuner" it's criminal. Again, no excuse for tuning that looks this bad.

This one? Sorry, again Im such a noob I can barely see the light at the end of my moms vigina.

The attorney is not gonna help due to that piece of paper I signed releasing all liability. Hustler I kinda don't want to fuck with tuners anymore. I am bound and determined to figure it out on my own at this point. I mean what's the worst that can happen? I blow my shit up? Oh well, it's gonna happen sometime. So now then what do you suggest? Any pointers for a dumb ass like me to start with? Other than trimming some at 5300k or so.

I was in the same place, I paid for two shit tunes then did it myself and it was great the first time out.

No, you won't ever blow it up if you tune it right.

Read this.
I'm by no means a pro, nor do I have a respectable understanding of how these small computers work, but this is the way it's done by those in the know.

Use arithmetic to reach the required AFR target.

For instance

If you are at 10.7 AFR and your target AFR is 11.7 AFR then you're 8% too rich for your target AFR.

Use the hydra math operators on the appropriate fuel cells to multiply by the appropriate integer. Then interpolate. Then log, then look at log, then repeat process.

If you have difficulty doing this, then I will tune your shit for nudes.

Nudes? Elaborate please. So about the stutter on top. See anything that looks obvious? As far as target afr's go I think 11.7 is about what everyone shoots for right? Also when it comes to the timing, should I put some more in, or just leave it and tune the fuel map for now? Also in the target afr table what happens when i start messing with that? Does that actually change the timing and fuel tables if i mess with that? Oh and one more thing. What exactly is bad when it comes to the knock. I guess I mean what numbers do I start to worry my shits gonna blow up?

Do you have a smoking gf or sister? well take nudes of her and send them to Fae. Or send them some spread ass cheeks from a male friend any of those should suffice.

I am assuming Hydra does have a feature like Autotune or tunerstudios correct?

No, I want nude pictures of dwood11.

Hydra does have autotune but it may be to slow to respond properly under WOT. Only one way to find out though. Also, from "the factory", meaning the FM base map, autotune is disabled if TPS is over 70% or whatever.

Uhhhhhhh did you buy the Hydra? You may want to start by downloading the Hydra tuning manual from the FM website.

AFR target table is only used for closed loop. And autotune.

Don't tune timing until you understand what timing does, how to look for knock, where MBT is, blah blah.

BTW your shit is not fucked up as it is. Not the best at all, but not horrible. As I said, your power takes a shit because your boost takes a shit.

The hydra manual sucks ass. I read a lot of it, but I wouldnt exactly call it user friendly at least not for a moron like me just starting out. Guess I missed the spot about afr's and auto tuning. I get the gist of timing, but looking for knock is something I still would like to educate myself on. So the knock ramp table tells me I'm doing it wrong?

Read the FM Manual and the Hydra User Manual. The Hydra User Manual explains what every map and setting is.

Yes, it is not user friendly.

Man, I hate reading. It makes me feel stupid. Especially the hydra manual. Oh well. I'm gonna start messing with my fuel table and turn my dwell up a smudge as per Jeremy's recommendation. He did give me another really good piece of advice. He said that in general with that much boost if I were having a spark issue that it would show up at a much lower rpm. Really wish I knew what the problem was.

My spark problem showed up at 5500rpm a while ago, I took the gap down to .025"

They are at .25 right now. I guess I will try .20 to see what happens.

I told you that I would remote tune your car for nudes of you.

Don't turn up dwell everywhere. Only turn it up for the RPM range that you're having your stutter.

Remember to make change, log, look at log, adjust, repeat. Also use the math functions like I said.

Ok Faeflora pleas elaborate for me on the dwell for me. I see a dwell setting, and excuse me as I'm not at home and dont have the program in front of me. But i know there is a dwell rpm setting that I'm pretty sure is blank on my map as I think you can see, and the other dwell that just has voltage not associated with rpms just volts. I take it I dont turn those up? Do I add dwell in the rpm map?

Yes just add dwell in the dwell RPM trim map

Thanks man. I really appreciate the help. Do I add one whole number or just use the plus button to bump it up? And one more thing, do you prefer twinks or bears? I have a plethora of both for your nudes.

I only want you.

Ok I get it. Are you a bent over ass spread kinda guy, or a demure cup the balls while blowing you a kiss dude? So do I add a whole number or what?

Curious, did the same guy do your baller initial tune and the FUBAR tune?

When you do get around to messing with timing, you'll need det cans to listen for det.

Cupping is good. Make sure we can see your face so we can use the pictures against you in your upcoming political career. Based upon your demonstrated competence with tuning, I would say a run for Congress can't be too far off.