LC-1 giving guff & autotuning v.lean
10-22-2009, 06:24 AM
#1
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LC-1 giving guff & autotuning v.lean
Have searched and read all threads I could find on this + have RTFM'd + reset & free-air calibrated.
Grounds are on rear of the head, power sourced from Radio 12v to avoid voltage drop during cranking (it was sourced from ECU with same issue, moving it obviously didn't fix).
Link ECU reads values fine in inj/O2 screen but OXY in RPM screen reads 126 when WBO2 finished warming up (reads fine before this).
Targets taken from bottom of this page :
http://www.lightweightmiata.com/beast/wbo2/
Any ideas why its still trying to tune me v.lean (so lean the zone is undrivable).
Cheers,
Steve
Grounds are on rear of the head, power sourced from Radio 12v to avoid voltage drop during cranking (it was sourced from ECU with same issue, moving it obviously didn't fix).
Link ECU reads values fine in inj/O2 screen but OXY in RPM screen reads 126 when WBO2 finished warming up (reads fine before this).
Targets taken from bottom of this page :
http://www.lightweightmiata.com/beast/wbo2/
Any ideas why its still trying to tune me v.lean (so lean the zone is undrivable).
Cheers,
Steve
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10-22-2009, 06:51 AM
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I don't have much of a solution, and it probably doesn't apply to this as your sensor is newly installed, but I have intermittent problems with my LC-1 readings, which (I hope) is not the fault of the unit itself but the bosch sensor's inability to withstand excessive heat..... even though it's meant to.
It's not a heat-related issue? In other words, do you get weird readings when the engine is relatively "cold"?
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10-22-2009, 10:10 AM
#3
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Hmmm.. no.. not really.. the readings seem quite consistant..
I doubt there is heat related issues either as its located just before the catpipe.
Thanks tho'
Have you wired yours to the same sources as mine?
I doubt there is heat related issues either as its located just before the catpipe.
Thanks tho'
Have you wired yours to the same sources as mine?
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10-22-2009, 06:28 PM
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I have an NA8 so my ground is next to the throttle body instead of the back of the engine.
From what I gather, you did wire yours correctly, as instructed by Innovate.
The only other thing, which I doubt, is possibly a short-circuit or "noise" from the CAS and associated ignition wiring.
Other than that, it's most likely a software issue with Link.
A fellow Link owner will be more helpful than I.
From what I gather, you did wire yours correctly, as instructed by Innovate.
The only other thing, which I doubt, is possibly a short-circuit or "noise" from the CAS and associated ignition wiring.
Other than that, it's most likely a software issue with Link.
A fellow Link owner will be more helpful than I.
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10-31-2009, 02:13 PM
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Moved my grounds to the ECU. Same. Am beginning to think this end of things is fine.
When I turn the key,
the calibration led on the lc-1 flashes (heater),
at the same time,
OXY reads 74-ish on they keypad,
then led goes solid and OXY value turns to 126.
I take it this isn't normal and is probably why its trying to autotune out REALLY lean?
Hmmm... when cutting the trace on the Link board, how deep do you need to cut? ;-)
When I turn the key,
the calibration led on the lc-1 flashes (heater),
at the same time,
OXY reads 74-ish on they keypad,
then led goes solid and OXY value turns to 126.
I take it this isn't normal and is probably why its trying to autotune out REALLY lean?
Hmmm... when cutting the trace on the Link board, how deep do you need to cut? ;-)
Last edited by Stevo11; 11-01-2009 at 08:43 AM.
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11-02-2009, 05:13 PM
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Just recut the trace + tested with a multimeter this time, nothing changed.. still changing to 126.
I notice if I rev the engine it'll flicker off 126 to 70-something..not sure if that means anything...
When I unplug the yellow wire I see an OXY reading of 74 but it then drops to 20 and eventually 0
I notice if I rev the engine it'll flicker off 126 to 70-something..not sure if that means anything...
When I unplug the yellow wire I see an OXY reading of 74 but it then drops to 20 and eventually 0
Last edited by Stevo11; 11-02-2009 at 07:28 PM.
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09-29-2011, 12:03 AM
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Autozone Part # 17014. PNP replacement. Or Advance Auto with the possibility of an online coupon it may be cheaper. The one from a 2002 Volkswagen Jetta GLX 2.8L MFI DOHC 6cyl fits as do some other late model Volkswagens.
Just make sure the part number or picture match because there are universal ones as well.
Just make sure the part number or picture match because there are universal ones as well.
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10-18-2011, 06:59 PM
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Installed the new sensor... no change, error 2 still blinking at me when trying to calibrate 
Moved all grounds to one of the CAS bolts, no difference. Power sourced from blue connector in engine bay.
Will start again and rewire I think. At least I've a "spare" sensor now
Moved all grounds to one of the CAS bolts, no difference. Power sourced from blue connector in engine bay.
Will start again and rewire I think. At least I've a "spare" sensor now
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10-19-2011, 07:36 PM
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update: Checked wiring, started and ran car up to temp, no change.
Took it all out and rewired, heater gnd on the inner passenger wing, calibration wire on old ecu gnd point near CAS (1.6), new (thick) ECU ground wire + green and white on engine block with chassis gnd. 12v from blue connector in engine bay.
Turned to key "on" Heater calibration kicked off, plugged in sensor, turned to "on" again, it calibrated but sensor was still in the exhaust + I'd just switched off the car 10 mins before, so its way out. No reading from outputs which I assume is caused by the incorrect calibration. Will recalibrate in free air tomorrow eve.
Good to know the new sensor seems ok.
Took it all out and rewired, heater gnd on the inner passenger wing, calibration wire on old ecu gnd point near CAS (1.6), new (thick) ECU ground wire + green and white on engine block with chassis gnd. 12v from blue connector in engine bay.
Turned to key "on" Heater calibration kicked off, plugged in sensor, turned to "on" again, it calibrated but sensor was still in the exhaust + I'd just switched off the car 10 mins before, so its way out. No reading from outputs which I assume is caused by the incorrect calibration. Will recalibrate in free air tomorrow eve.
Good to know the new sensor seems ok.
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10-21-2011, 07:12 PM
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Recalibrated it, same issue (no signals). I'll ring Innovate tomorrow and see if I can get an RMA, get it fixed and sell it, am sick of it's ****.
Ordered an AEM UEGO to replace it.
Ordered an AEM UEGO to replace it.
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10-25-2011, 10:41 AM
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Hook a DVM up to the LC1 output and check the analog output voltage. Right now you just know the link can't read the output of the LC1 correctly, but that doesn't mean the wideband is bad. If that works check and see if you need to change the calibration of the wideband input on the Link (voltage vs. AFR).
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10-25-2011, 11:40 AM
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hmm... good theory. I have a digital panel hooked up to the NB analog output, thats not reading anything either but no harm in sticking a multimeter on it. I hadn't done this before now as the link used to (at least) read something previously.
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11-11-2011, 11:26 AM
#19
My first post!!
I've ran into similar issues with 2 different LC-1's on my RX7's. As far as I'm concerned they're all junk, and Innovate tech support is a joke. The only response you get is "it's a bad sensor." I too have replaced sensors just like you, to no avail.
I actually dyno tune cars for a living, and the only sensors I use for the dyno are NTK's. I use an AFM 1000 backed up by an AFX, both NTK sensors. The AFM will run you about $1500, and really isn;t practical for use outside of a dyno. But the AFX you can pick up for around $230 and the precision is within .01-.02 AFR of the AFM, which is well within the margin of error for sensor placement.
If either of those is too steep for you... then my second choice is an AEM UEGO. Check with Mike at www.morepowertuning.com for the best prices on UEGOs. He's a good buddy of mine and always takes care of the Mazda community. Just tell him Ken sent you his way.
I've ran into similar issues with 2 different LC-1's on my RX7's. As far as I'm concerned they're all junk, and Innovate tech support is a joke. The only response you get is "it's a bad sensor." I too have replaced sensors just like you, to no avail.
I actually dyno tune cars for a living, and the only sensors I use for the dyno are NTK's. I use an AFM 1000 backed up by an AFX, both NTK sensors. The AFM will run you about $1500, and really isn;t practical for use outside of a dyno. But the AFX you can pick up for around $230 and the precision is within .01-.02 AFR of the AFM, which is well within the margin of error for sensor placement.
If either of those is too steep for you... then my second choice is an AEM UEGO. Check with Mike at www.morepowertuning.com for the best prices on UEGOs. He's a good buddy of mine and always takes care of the Mazda community. Just tell him Ken sent you his way.
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