E85 Continental Flex Fuel Sensor Info
I stumbled across this video and wondered if anyone had any other information on flex sensors and false ethanol content readings due to water contamination. It looks like he's using a run of the mill large Conti sensor that is popular among most tuning platforms.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
That was a pretty ridiculous amount of water he added. 10%? 5%? Thats like a gallon of water in your fuel tank.
At the end he also claims that mixing in gasoline and e85 is just as detonation proof as the "pure" e85.
At the end he also claims that mixing in gasoline and e85 is just as detonation proof as the "pure" e85.
I'll take that as deviation is otherwise negligible considering the volume percent of condensation found in tank at any given time, unless someone maliciously added water.
Used the charcoal mount by bending the tabs in. I would NOT recommend the small sensor. It is a pain to mount. I would use the medium or large if I did it again. Used Dorman 3/8 steel to 5/16 barb 90s. They are meant for nylon so I added fuel clamps to the barbs just in case. Hopefully I don't burn to death. I used the stock return line and used a brake line bender to adjust the stock return line. Waiting on my pigtail and wire from amazon to get it running.
*Pigtail arrived. It is not working. Of course my soldering iron and my voltmeter both died. All I have is a test light and crimp fittings. Tried to use the o2 wire. When it did not work ran a temp jumper signal outside of the car to the edu and still nope. Best I can do for now. Going to have to wait for new voltmeter from amazon to figure it out.
*Pigtail arrived. It is not working. Of course my soldering iron and my voltmeter both died. All I have is a test light and crimp fittings. Tried to use the o2 wire. When it did not work ran a temp jumper signal outside of the car to the edu and still nope. Best I can do for now. Going to have to wait for new voltmeter from amazon to figure it out.
Last edited by MX5RACER; Oct 23, 2017 at 04:11 PM.
With regards to water in E85 I wonder how this affects the tune? Water injection can be damn effective at reducing detonation so I can't see problems with timing. Higher % of ethanol means increased injector duty cycle so realistically it's probably a wash at concentrations most are likely to see.
On the other hand I was surprised to see my catch can accumulate as much water as it did. Makes me wonder how much water was in the last batch of E85.
On the other hand I was surprised to see my catch can accumulate as much water as it did. Makes me wonder how much water was in the last batch of E85.
Are you thinking the extra water in your catch can is from the water in the e85 you put in the tank? I think the chemical reaction of the fuel burning is making far more water than whatever is actually in the fuel.
AEM Documentation referenced above:
http://aemelectronics.com/files/inst...nsor%20Kit.pdf
Small one did not work for me. ****** was dead on arrival. Which was fun because I doubted my wiring and went through a bunch of drama checking everything not thinking it could be bad from the factory.
Anyone tried the ones from China? I see a few on ebay at $30.
I am suspect but sometimes it's all of Chinese origin and really just comes down to how much you pay at the end..
I am suspect but sometimes it's all of Chinese origin and really just comes down to how much you pay at the end..
No personal experience yet, but I recently had the same thought and research showed it wasn't worth gambling on the cheap chinese sensors.
Sadly I'm hearing and feeling that logic about a lot of things lately :/ At the end of the day its all probably coming from the same factory
Used the charcoal mount by bending the tabs in. I would NOT recommend the small sensor. It is a pain to mount. I would use the medium or large if I did it again. Used Dorman 3/8 steel to 5/16 barb 90s. They are meant for nylon so I added fuel clamps to the barbs just in case. Hopefully I don't burn to death. I used the stock return line and used a brake line bender to adjust the stock return line. Waiting on my pigtail and wire from amazon to get it running.
*Pigtail arrived. It is not working. Of course my soldering iron and my voltmeter both died. All I have is a test light and crimp fittings. Tried to use the o2 wire. When it did not work ran a temp jumper signal outside of the car to the edu and still nope. Best I can do for now. Going to have to wait for new voltmeter from amazon to figure it out.
yes. Just like the ebay walbro fuel pumps that have exact same name/model/stamp on them but are junk and many people got scammed with
also like ebay ID1000's which look identical except the logo is a sticker and not laser etched.
there are many fakes out there is what I'm saying. they all look the same
also like ebay ID1000's which look identical except the logo is a sticker and not laser etched.
there are many fakes out there is what I'm saying. they all look the same
yes. Just like the ebay walbro fuel pumps that have exact same name/model/stamp on them but are junk and many people got scammed with
also like ebay ID1000's which look identical except the logo is a sticker and not laser etched.
there are many fakes out there is what I'm saying. they all look the same
also like ebay ID1000's which look identical except the logo is a sticker and not laser etched.
there are many fakes out there is what I'm saying. they all look the same
How do you recognise a fake from an original?
I sent an email to continental but no answer.
I bought one on ebay, paid import tax (product came from USA), sold as genuine sensor, but there was no GM label or part number.
https://www.ebay.fr/itm/New-Genuine-...53.m2749.l2649
Any thoughts?
cheers
I sent an email to continental but no answer.
I bought one on ebay, paid import tax (product came from USA), sold as genuine sensor, but there was no GM label or part number.
https://www.ebay.fr/itm/New-Genuine-...53.m2749.l2649
Any thoughts?
cheers






