FM Voodoo II Issue
 

I just finished installing a Voodoo II Flyin Miata turbo system on a 2004 Miata. The installation went very well. The issue comes with tuning. I'm only using the Voodoo Box for now.

I used the suggested NGK Extended Reach Spark Plugs which I re-gapped to 0.030. I set the O2 adjustment to come on right before 0 on the boost gauge. I set the add fuel parameter to come on right after 0 on the boost gauge, but eventually moved it to a later value due to being too rich.

When I floor the car, I get around 11.5:1 which is still to rich. When I first tip in, it gets really rich (10:1). However, the issue occurs when I come to a stop. I'll stop the car and the idle will stumble down to 200 or 300 and try to stall. When idling, the a/f is around 11:1 which doesn't make sense since it shouldn't even be adding fuel at this point.

Any help would be great.

I'm still waiting on the intercooler from Flyin Miata, so for the time being I am only runnning 6 psi.

The timing wheel is fully retarded (6 degrees).

I don't know what to say to this, but your idle should definately be a little leaner. I kinda remember that there is a little light that is supposed to come on on the voo-doo box when it goes into boost. Make sure that's not on at idle, and make sure all your voo-doo box wires are actually making contact. Verify the connections with an ohmeter.

Call FM. They are very helpful.

When I ran voo doo box I actually hot glued mine to the panel right under the dash cluster dimmer switch. Then I just ran a little bit longer vac line. I mounted it there so I could actually drive my car while adjusting the thing. Plus with a little use of hot glue it's easily removable for when you get serious and go megasquirt! I'd say mount it there, cause fm says to mount it on the side of the ecu, but how can you see what adjustments need to be made if you have to crawl under the dash and stand on your head?

I'll check the lights to make sure that they are where they're supposed to be. I was shocked by the idle a/f too.

I'm going to try to advance the point at which the fuel starts adding. Maybe it is being added to soon.

Also, I'm using T-Taps to tap into the signal without actually cutting the wire. However, I don't have any of the flashing lights saying that any connections are incorrect.

Could somebody please explain to me why a solid connection is better than T-Taps? I've been talking with somebody about this and they said that this could be my problem. However, if it is intercepting the factory signal and I'm not showing any of the lights that Flyin Miata refers to when something is wrong, how could this lead to a tuning issue? The vacuum line is not leaking, and the connections (although taps) are solid.

Take a look in the hose from the maf to the turbo. Make sure the plastic elbow inside it (which comes from the bypass valve) is pointed into the turbo inlet and not aimed at the maf. If it points at the maf it will screw up the signal, especially at idle.