Haltech Installation Writeup - Lots of generic standalone content
 

Enjoy.

http://www.lms-efi.com/haltech/ems_install.pdf

Expensive Piggyback and Damaging Stock Wiring Fail.

your right, everyone in their right mind would do a MS since its $200. noone would ever want more than a basic computer anyways.
;)

Wow. Thanks for the hate. :)

Parallel, not piggyback. Big difference, which is outlined in the text. The stock ECU is only controlling the idle control valve. Everything else is true standalone in function.


Got a link to the $200 MS that has four fuel and four ignition drivers in one box? I'll be all over that one! ;)

I didn't share this to start a system debate and tout one over the other. It's information that can apply to any system. Constructive debate is welcome. Ignorant, first sight dismissal is not helpful to anyone.

To get the same in a MS, as outlined above(Seq. Fuel & Spark) you could put it together for around $455, plus whatever the cost for a harness might cost (~$10 for connector + $40 for color coded wiring).

Can the Haltec not control idle?

It would have been much simpler to simply unplug the stock computer which is doing only one simple task (besides throwing check engine lights) and built yourself a short PNP harness, then only needed to run just 4 additional wires to the engine bay for the 2 extra fuel and spark drivers (on a 1.6L).


Not trying to hate, but it seems like a waste of a $1000 EMS to run parallel just so the stock ecu can control idle.

Otherwise, that's a very good and thorough writeup. I applaud you for going out and getting it done, but you could have probably saved yourself tons of effort if you had used my Megasquirt how-to's and diagrams.

I guess I do get a little bitter when I take all the effort to publish this stuff to make it easy and then I see someone else just do the same work (like the diagram on page 5).




I'd love to see a writeup on the TPS adapter.

Having run two different EMS on a miata in parallel and two different EMS standalone with plug-in harnesses, I feel I can contribute a reasonable opinion:

parallel installs are pointless and complicated and unnecessary.

1. Either you cut/tap into the stock harness and create a whole shitload of failure points or you
2. Make a spliced jumper harness

the latter is definitely the smarter way to go because you can remove it and repair it if you screw up or break wires. try that with a stock harness.

but since nearly any half way decent ECU for a miata can control idle (and everything else except maybe EGR) why would you go through the trouble of creating that extra spaghetti?

As near as I can tell, the Sprint 500 left this out. Seems to be the only recent production Haltec missing this.

ha, false advertising much?

Attachment 191449


obviously, it's not the power of standalone, nor close to the cost of piggyback.


Attachment 191450


so, 4 spark drivers, 4 fuel drivers, and 1 fuel pump driver, then only 2 programmable outputs....You might not get seq. fuel and spark, but hell the MS-I v2.2 cost only $140 and could do more than the above.

Braineack - How did this become a MS builder comparing his product to something else thread? The purpose of the article was not to tout one product over the other. To the contrary, it is meant to help anyone doing a full install. I could of saved my self a lot of time if I hadn't bothered to write everything out in an attempt to HELP someone. I could not care less if you've been down this road before, or not.

If someone determines a better route, then they are free to follow it, and I applaud them for doing so. For the purpose of the article, I could care less what MS, Haltech, or anyone else has to offer. Tout your product elsewhere, please. You want to hate on everything you don't have a hand in? Do it somewhere else.

The Sprint 500 can be configured to use one of the programmable outputs to run an open loop PWM channel for idle control. Works well for cold start fast idle and AC idle up. We'll be using those two channels for other purposes, and the stock ECU does a fine job of running the idle valve. So, why not let it do it? Braineack, do you really think the stock ECU controlling the idle valve really has any effect on performance, reliability, or the price of tea in China? Is that simply an easy pecking spot or does it simply insult your sensibility?

y8s - I've used patch looms on Miatas (and other platforms) to avoid cutting the stock harness. In this instance we just felt it wasn't necessary. As far as providing failure points, I trust my connections as much as anyone's. No disrespect to a shop like Boomslang, which make excellent products, but I trust my own work as much, or more, than that provided by someone else. I have over 17 years experience in auto OE manufacturing; electrical troubleshooting and repair. My current position involves repair of production vehicles in an assembly plant. If my employer trusts my work enough to allow me to cut and splice products they put a warranty on, I've got no problem doing the same for someone else.

God bless. :)

I'm an athiest

I'm sorry. ;)

don't be. I'm free from the ties of collective fantasy.

That sure shut Brain up.

I just finished the install of my Sprint 500 in my NA8 with a B6 engine. Pretty straight forward, only took a few hours. I had the pin-outs of the 96 and the 90 cars and figured out which wire went where by taking the wiring diagram Chris make for the 90-93 and adapting it to the 96.

For connections, I de-pinned all the wires I needed and used a deutsch connector to attach them to the Haltech. For the entire install I only needed to solder 2 wires and that was to extend the AIT wires as they were not long enough from behind the passenger seat.

Car is set up for sequential injection and ignition. Hopefully if I finish all the other engine related details I'll have the car fired up today.

no, i just never cared enough to come back and look at comments.

Cool!

falcon, how are you liking the haltech?

So far so good. It was easy to install and the tuning software is very user friendly. I'm running sequential injection and waste spark right now. Once I get my LS2 coils I will be wiring them in direct fire. The Sprint 500 seems to have everything you need for a basic track car. The only downside is there is no idle output. You have to fiddle with it yourself using one of the generic outs. It IS a PWM signal contrary to what some people say, so it's doable but you have to do all the configuration yourself. I am not running an idle valve anyways and never planned to so it doesn't matter for my build. It also has a CAN output which is nice and will communicate with my RacePak. Another reason I ended up with the Haltech.