harbor freight det can
anyone try this?
just found the video on building a electronic det can and it looked interesting. |
I am probably going to HF tomorrow and if I see the device he was using I might pick it up and built me a set.
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This looks incredibly awesome. I may just buy one of these and play with it..
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I can't find item#95635.
Though I found item#95653: http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...ope-95653.html |
Looks like the exact same thing, probably a typo. That's the right tool it looks like.
Now.. can I use this with my OEM 99 knock sensor in the stock location? or should i buy a bosch sensor like he has done? Whatever would work better is what I want to use. |
I knew I should have kept the knock sensor from my junk motor....
Will be trying this |
Recording of said det can. Man that sounds crystal clear. Ordering some parts now.. What kind of resistors do I need to turn down the volume/sensitivity like he did there? Found a gosh dang internet forum thread about it. how about that. http://www.----------------------/fo...html#msg216496 Why in gods name does it censor that URL? Here, it's this URL but without the space: real homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,22257.msg216496.html#msg216496 ---------------------- LOL that website URL is just censored on this forum. Classic mt.net. Just like when the word drifting used to be censored. |
because that site cost Rick lots of money and heartache.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1027001)
because that site cost Rick lots of money and heartache.
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real home made turbo is a copied database of homemadeturbo.com, a site that Forumedia Inc. purchased. it sprung up after said purchase, which was a violation of the terms of the sale. along with it, pretty much 80% of the users left hmt and went to rhmt.com. hmt.com more or less died, sad face ensued.
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Not to stir the pot, but I think there is more to the story than that. People didn't jump ship for no reason...
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Here is the link to the Digital Diagnostic Stethoscope. I am going to pick up the set on July 4th with my 25% off coupon.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1027694)
Here is the link to the Digital Diagnostic Stethoscope. I am going to pick up the set on July 4th with my 25% off coupon.
Keep us updated on the build. |
I, too, plan on buying one.
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Bought mine 2 or so says ago. still going to need this audio cable he's using though.
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Any chance of you possibly coming up with a rough schematic of the device?
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Got one on its way now. Someone else building one of these please document as you do. If I build mine before anyone has I'll do it though.
So it sounds like we should use a basic shielded audio cable, some resistors, and a knock sensor (thinking about using the oem 99 one in the oem location that I have). |
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1028772)
So it sounds like we should use a basic shielded audio cable, some resistors, and a knock sensor (thinking about using the oem 99 one in the oem location that I have).
I'll use my OEM knock sensor too if mine isn't messed up. I don't ever remember my MS acquiring signal from it. |
I ordered my stuff this week. I plan on putting a POT in instead of a resistor so I can play with the sensitivity as needed. I also soldered in some audio plugs to my knock sensor cable so I can just disconnect the KNOCKSENSEMS and use the sensor for the det can. No sense in having both working at the same time in my mind. Knocksense is less than ideal anyway.
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Just a safety precaution to have knock sense yes? After you use said det can/ dyno tune you shouldn't have to worry about knock.
That is a great idea with the POT though.I don't know what POT stands for but I know you mean a variable resistor. Is there enough room for it though? also may be able to modify the plastic housing so you can adjust without disassembling? |
Link to the kind of "POT" i would need for this? That sounds like an incredibly good idea that I'm going to have to jack when building mine.
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I will have to watch the video and see what resistor the guy called for. Just go to radioshack and find a potentiometer (AKA "POT") that will work for that range. I might not put it back in the original case...I may just put it in some kind of radio shack project enclosure. Who knows.
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Thought the guy said 33 ohm.
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Originally Posted by 2manyhobyz
(Post 1029067)
Thought the guy said 33 ohm.
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Got my stethoscope in, will now be looking for a sheilded audio cable and some resistors or a "POT" as discussed above.
This stethoscope tool is pretty neat on its own though, gotta love HF. |
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1031034)
Got my stethoscope in, will now be looking for a sheilded audio cable and some resistors or a "POT" as discussed above.
This stethoscope tool is pretty neat on itus own though, gotta love HF. |
Mine was lost by my apartment complex. Hope to figure that out soon and get started...
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Originally Posted by 240_to_miata
(Post 1031232)
Mine was lost by my apartment complex. Hope to figure that out soon and get started...
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POT [the non smoking variety] = potentiometer [preferably also non smoking]
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I've got mine, but with no local radio shack to get parts from I'll have to order the other crap online.
Sad face. |
Got mine in... awesomeness to follow
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anyone gotten further with this?
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Been busy on other stuff. I probably am going to use a resistor instead of a variable pot because I am cheap.
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22 Attachment(s)
OK, I guess somebody's gotta be first. Just finished mine a few minutes ago.
Popped the case, it looks like this: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378092582 Removed the screws. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378092582 Here's the front. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378092582 And the back. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378092582 A close up of the resistor. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378092582 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378092582 After pics. I used a shielded cable made for playstation, more internal stuff than I needed, but it was laying around. In this case each wire got it's own shielding and the outer shielding was tied into the negative terminal on the battery. I found there was a like a 60hz hum that was there until I added the resistor. I went out and bought a 33 ohm resistor and compared it to some other resistors I had laying around. On the bench, I like the sound best of a 33K ohm instead. It may be different on the car, but there are two audio controls. One on the unit and one in line on the headphones. (sorry, hot glue got a little messy):vash: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378092582 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378092582 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378092582 This is the Bosch sensor I used. It's on Volvo and Saab turbo's. You can also use the cable that came with it. I would bet it's shielded. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378092582 The bolt on the block was larger than the hole in the sensor, so I welded a stud to the bolt so it would work. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378092582 I'll start it tomorrow and see how it sounds. Cheers, -JB |
very interesting
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MADD props, and thanks for the writeup. Keep us updated on the results.
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Subbed....bought mine, sitting in the bag from HF still.....hope to tune in less than two weeks so I have to figure something out!
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I'll finish mine eventually...
Nice work |
This thread needs more love before I'm convinced to build one ;)
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Any positive/negative results from this?
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Still have mine in the closet unbuilt...
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Originally Posted by 240_to_miata
(Post 1097370)
Still have mine in the closet unbuilt...
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I wasn't that impressed so far. Sounded kinda flat to me. The guy on the video made it seem like you could hear "everything".
Changes to make: -- best shielded cable I can find -- try changing from Bosch knock sensor to the Miata OE sensor -- check into something called a "contact microphone" I have other projects I'm trying to finish before I get back to this. Cheers, --JB |
The Miata one is garbage. I think it's the one you are using though.
I forget if he gave a part number for the one he used. |
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