lc-1 loss of power while cranking
 

please let me know if this is an issue. i just installed a FM II kit with a MSpmp2 im having issues getting the car to start and idle. when i can get the car started the only way to keep it running is with aggressive throttle use and runs super rich. As soon as i start cranking, the lc-1 gauge losses power and then displays heater. dose the lc-1 talk to the MS while in heating mode?

Lc1 is most likely wired to ignition on, similar to your stereo. Sounds like lc1 is acting like it should. Calibrate lc1 correctly/ make sure it's setup correctly on both the lc1 outputs and in TS. Once the car runs and the lc1 gets a true reading, modify fuel VE table in the idle cells until it idles near 14.7 (this should be your target table setting at the idle area).

this is why I hate innovate.
no it doesn't talk to your car while warming up. it's useless. you gotta wire it to another battery if you want to properly tune startup

The innovative not showing anything during warmup of the sensor is annoying, which is why I switched to the AEM. On the flip side when the sensor is warming up the value it gives you might not really be accurate or true. Personally having some sort of value during the warmup to me is more desirable then waiting, as I might have some clue what is going on.

My biggest gripe is not with initial warmup even. I get that it can't really read accurately when cold. But when you're running your car, momentarily shut it off and re-start, it's burning hot, there is no reason to still do the stupid long warmup procedure.

^ this, but yeah. During warmup, it probably reads max rich value...possibly tricking OP into thinking its running rich.
Let it start up, wait like 30 seconds until it reads proper, then adjust.

While this 'feature' of no WB power during cranking is annoying, I've never had it warming up cause anything negative for MS that would make warm up/ASE not work right.

A semi-workaround if you really want to see values during warm up:

• Turn the ignition to ON but don't crank
• Let the WB warm up and start to read values
• Cycle off, then crank (or straight to crank from current ON position might be necessary, cant remember)
• You should get WB readings in like 2 seconds vs the regular 15 seconds with a standard 'cold' start

But again, I haven't had problems due to the WB warming up post cranking so I'd check your ASE and WUE settings before pointing at the WB.

nope, it will still take it's sweet time and not 2 seconds.

for 95% of the tuning you really don't need this. when dialing in startup on big injectors running sequential or e85, that's when this becomes important

The Guage is not showing anything but "HTR". I say it's running rich because it's puking fuel rich exhaust and fouling plugs. And after the motor dies and the lc-1 finally wants to display a reading it's in the mid 10s and if I leave the ignition on and the motor off, the afrs will gradually return to 22 I have the req fuel set for 700cc injectors .

Also keep in mind I have the megasquirt experience level of an infant.

So connect it to a separate battery and start tuning start-up, ase, we, etc.

Keep in mind for tuning cold-starts, you get 1 try per day basically

Well, I've done the above process on multiple occasions. I certainly don't fully understand its quirks, so explain it however you wish. Obviously its not an ideal way to get readings, but it is possible.

Maybe some of the units are faster than the others, but the last MTX-L took a full 6-10 seconds for it to finally start displaying. My friend's LC-1 was the same.

Once you dialed in startup/ase, it really doesn't matter and you can set EGO correction to the same delay post start as the wideband takes, so the car will run open loop and not overcorrect

Manual for AEM UEGO 30-4110 says warm-up time will be <20 seconds. Don't know if the LC1 manual has anything to say?

There are separate grounds on the LC1 for the heater and the sensor. Do you have them both grounded?

If there is a second grounding wire, it's not obvious.

On the LC-1 both the blue and white wires are ground. Are you sure its an LC-1 and not an LC-2?

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