Steady 12V is only for the G2 gauge.

MX Eva- I think the sensor may get too hot where you put it. I've got mine right in front of the cat, on a bung made from a sparkplug non-fouler. This stands the sensor snout about even with the inside of the pipe. The sensor is self heating, and if it gets too hot it will make the controller throw an error light and stop functioning.

You really need a laptop at first to set this up. I've never had one just plug and play. For some reason it loses it's mind a couple times at first and will have all manner of goofy settings in LM programmer. After a couple times of going back and forth with making sure the settings are correct, and recalibrating the sensor, it's usually good for weeks or months.

thanks for the answer

also recalibrating the sensor.. meaning you have to pull it out of the exhaust every time you calibrate it? wtf?

Mine was plug and play, because the gauge uses the default analog output scale of the LC-1. No need for a laptop. There was a procedure provided with the LC-1 that covers how to do this.

IIRC, basically:
1. Install the LC-1 and gauge. Wire them per the directions.
2. Unplug the WBO2 from the LC-1. and remove the sensing end from the exhaust pipe.
3. Power it up for 30 secs or so WITH THE WB02 disconnected.
4. Power it off. Plug the WB02 back in.
5. Power it back up again. It should enter into the heater calibration mode.
6. When that is done, push the red button (installed per the instructions) and it will perform a free-air calibration. The WB02 sensor end HAS to be in free air.
7. Power down the LC-1
8. Reinstall the WB02 in the exhaust. Done.
9. Rejoice with a beer.

RTFM. It is all there, except for the beer part :D

:facepalm:

Think about it... When you calibrate something, you have to have a reference to calibrate it AGAINST. A free-air calibration uses the typical oxygen content in the air as the reference. So therefore the sensor has to be in free-air during calibration. There are some methods for purging the exhaust with engine braking and such that do this without removing the sensor. I usually just remove it.

Thanks for the explanation sir :)

Directions are same almost word by word. There were 2 things that were confusing me. 1st one is that people were saying you have to connect it to a laptop to get it to read right which according to you is unnecessary if setup right and why it screws up after whatever many days once its calibrated, requiring to be calibrated again :vash:.

Mine seems to scramble all the settings the first time I set it up. I have no idea why, perhaps I'm doing something wrong. All I can say if things don't seem right, check all the settings in LM programmer, then recalibrate. It usually makes me go through this once or twice, then it's good. The main thing seems to be not to let the sensor get too hot. Once I got that figured out life was good.

scotty did you follow the instructions Tex posted step by step?

Pretty much to the letter. Except I rejoiced with more than 1 beer at the end.

I'd done this on three different cars, same issues.