LC1 problem
This has been pissing me off for the last year, just need some input. I hooked up my LC1 wideband last year with the digital gauge. Its working fine, reading properly on the MS, properly on the Logworks program for the LC1. LED lights up on warmup and stays on its all calibrated. The only problem is that the gauge just stays at 22.4 all the time all last year, and i would sort of like to know my AFR...not 22.4. So what wire did i fuck up on? Thanks, Mike.
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I have personally noticed that the plug on the rear of my DB gauge is &&&uckin picky. I can be driving around, everything working fine and then out of know where the gauge starts throwing figures near the extremes and sometimes freezes at either. The way I have overcome this is that I pop the gauge and push on the plug (fixes loose or tewaked connection) => gauge goes back to normal operation.
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Shoot me if this is obvious and you've done it, but did you set up that output?
Mine was sensitive to voltage changes. When I was sorting out some wiring/grounding issues mine would peg at one end and then stay there. |
Is your led blinking any error codes for a faulty sensor?
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Originally Posted by Staffah
(Post 572005)
I have personally noticed that the plug on the rear of my DB gauge is &&&uckin picky. I can be driving around, everything working fine and then out of know where the gauge starts throwing figures near the extremes and sometimes freezes at either. The way I have overcome this is that I pop the gauge and push on the plug (fixes loose or tewaked connection) => gauge goes back to normal operation.
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Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 572010)
Shoot me if this is obvious and you've done it, but did you set up that output?
Mine was sensitive to voltage changes. When I was sorting out some wiring/grounding issues mine would peg at one end and then stay there. |
Originally Posted by lordrigamus
(Post 572097)
Is your led blinking any error codes for a faulty sensor?
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22.4 actually means 22.4% oxygen, not 22.4:1 Air/fuel. Do you have the black groun hooekd to the LED; is it stuck in heater calibration mode?
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Originally Posted by stranges12712
(Post 572125)
Hmm, what set it up through MS? I have done that in the settings in Megatune but never touched anything else if thats what your asking?
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 572129)
22.4 actually means 22.4% oxygen, not 22.4:1 Air/fuel. Do you have the black groun hooekd to the LED; is it stuck in heater calibration mode?
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Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 572130)
Nope, mean setting up your outputs in LM programmer.
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It's a program on the disc that came with your LC-1...figured you had to have done it for you MS output, since it's normally not set up for 0-5V, 10:1-20:1...
You should also have a cable to connect laptop to the serial out (unplugged stereo jack). Here's some instructions: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...1_tutorial.pdf Page 8 shows LM programmer dialog box, but rest of it is geared towards EFILive use, same principle on setup though. |
Originally Posted by stranges12712
(Post 572126)
It blinks 11 times on start up then stays lit full. And if the sensor was faulty it wouldnt be reading on MS would it?
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I would go back and check/redo the grounding for the gauge. Also what did you connect the yellow dimmining wire to (I hope you didn't just tape it off)? What are you using for the switched power source?
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Ok just programmed it...still the same. Ground is by throttle body. And switched power source is the 12v ignition source which everything else is switched on by, i believe the yellow is going to the MS. Il go check the wires now though.
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disconnect the black recalibration wire.
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Cut the black wire...led just went out. Im writing up a wiring diagram right now.
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1 Attachment(s)
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Ok so the Gauge has 4 wires
Yellow - goes to brown on LC1 white - red LC1 and 12V black - ground red -red LC1 and 12V LC1 there are 6 wires red - white and red on gauge and 12V blue - ground white - ground black - calibration button and led brown - yellow on gauge yellow - goes to MS hopefully my paint skills pay off...this is how its hooked up in my car, it read correctly on MS and Logworks but not on the gauge. |
Looking at the diagram....why do you have the gauges white wire spliced into the 12 volt feed. If its the Db gauge the white goes to the LC1 controllers brown. Also the Yellow is either grounded or hooked to a headlight power wire.
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Sorry, should have added the link for the install instructions,
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s.../DB_manual.pdf |
Ok switched the white out of the 12V to the brown on the controler and the yellow to head light power, programmed. Everything is reading fine...now instead of staying at 22.4 its just stays at 7.4 and doesnt change.
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Try this without starting the car turn the key to ACC position and let the gauge warm up. My flashes 7.4 during warm-up and then reads 21.8 (I think when car is off). If your gauge does not do this try recalibrating by:
- Unplugging the sensor from the LC1 controller (unclip the two). - You might as well at this point unscrew the sensor from the bung and let hang. - Turn the key to ON ( don't start the car) for 10sec and then turn OFF - Plug the sensor back into the controller. -Turn car to ON (Don't start it) and let it do its thing. The LED will flash slowly than fast and when it goes solid the heater is calibrated. - At this point hold the calibration button for 3 seconds (light will go off) and then release. This does the free air calibration. Doing these steps will clear and then set the calibration data (like first time install process). One other thing....you do have the DB gauge correct (i.e. did the instructions I send you match your gauge)? |
Ya im pretty sure i did the right one because the other one has different colour wires. I will try it when im at work tomorrow and put it on a hoist dont feel like jacking it back up right now lol.
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Are you powering the controller with a circuit that is hot while cranking? IIRC there was an issue with the controller dropping under a certain voltage. I think it was recommended that the controller be wired to a power source that is 12v when running, 0v while cranking.
This may not have anything to do with it, just throwing it out there. |
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