TinyIOx
 

Has anyone used they TinyIOx here. I'm thinking about getting one. Having all the extra inputs, and the digital WBO2 input sounds appealing.

The other options are the CAN-EGT module from DIY autotune, and the MSlabs WBO2 CAN module.

But the tinyIOx seems a bit more modular. I have been playing around with the settings in TS and there is a lot of stuff you can do with it. I would need to make a small case for it but was wondering if anyone else had experience with it.

Link: http://jbperf.com/io_extender/tinyIOx.html

Before you buy one let me know, they ship from Europe right? That supposedly can add vss to my old ms2, plus more.

Looks easy enough to print a case for.

Canada. Shipping is cheap. Like $4.50.

Yes. I linked it in your thread earlier. It can add a shit ton of stuff to your ms2.

Look at all of the possibilities!

Yes that is push button start. Like real push to start.

jbperf.com ? View topic - Push button start and shutdown

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1445968659

I have been considering one of these I/O boards (either the regular or tiny) off and on. I really like the idea of bringing in the AFR digitally and having extra inputs etc.

I'd really like to see one of these packaged with a GPS and/or accelerometer.

I don't know how this works, it will add more menus to my ms2? How'd you do that?

It's a megasquirt canbus device. It actually gets programmed through the megasquirt.

Then they talk over canbus.

Is there a way to add that menu to my tunerstudio so I can see what it does, or do I have to wait till I buy it?

Yes. Those were my screenshots. Go to the link I posted and there are instructions.

All I see is talk of firmware updates and push to start.

I don't want my car stolen, I just want to see those menus. those firmware updaters don't do anything.

I think I got it working, no push button start on ms2 I guess. I have no idea how the inputs and outputs work with a real tune, but if it's what I think it is, meh. Won't add much of anything to ms2. No vss, nothing other than vss adc value in datalogs. I'd be able to do sequential spark while keeping my shift light and ecu coolant fan control.

I already have digital wideband, all I want is seq ignition. I'm going to get a stock coolant thermoswitch, much cheaper than all this.

Really? No vss input? That kinda makes sense. Idk how fast canbus is.

use MS3.

I am.

MS3 has had push to start functionality in the firmware for like 2 years. ;)

I don't own a TinyIO, but plenty of other users do. You'll probably get more feedback at the msextra forum.

I install/use CAN EGT and Microsquirt IO.

Yep. I've been reading over there, just wondering if anyone here had experience. I think its on my list of winter things. I like the price point, and its the right amount of DIY for me.

I'm confused as to why you need this with a MS3x, doesn't it have plenty of IO on it's own? If i just ditch my MS2 and go straight on up to MS3x, can't I bring in EGT and more natively?

What is it you are trying to add, just the digital wideband?

2 wheel sensors
1 Datalog
1 Launch control
1 EGT
1 Flex
1 Oil Pressure
1 Oil Temp
1 Variable launch control
1 pit lane limiter switch
1 External map

It starts to add up

Currently I only have 1 ADC left, and 1 spare digital input.

I see...

I bet I can get by with just a ms3, especially if the wideband can module I have now works with ms3.

MS3X, MS3-Pro, or MSPNP-Pro have enough I/O for most 'standard' type builds, but as you get into higher forms of motorsports, your I/O needs grow at a near exponential rate, hence the need for CAN enabled expansion boxes. Here is a basic list of some of the inputs that customers request:

• 2 to 4 wheel speed, depending on application
• Brake switch or brake pressure
• steering angle
• suspension travel x4
• coolant pressure
• oil temp & pressure
• fuel temp & pressure
• pre & post intercooler temp
• turbine inlet pressure
• wb02 per cylinder
• EGT per cylinder
• nitrous pressure
• IR temp sensors, usually tire temp or track temp
• crankcase pressure
• cylinder head temp

Further, there are some motors that carry full redundant sensors. 2 of everything. Then they'll also need the ability to set up more discrete inputs than what you see on a Miata for things like 3-step, trans brake, trans creep, boost by gear, pit lane limiter, etc etc etc

Too many sensors, the thought of doing all the wiring makes me cry.

Now I know why I see 2-3 or more sets of 28 pin firewall bulkhead connectors on some cars...

Is the MS3 better at basic programming off all these inputs? I'm not sure that's the best phrasing for it, but with my MS2 it seems I can't tell it to adjust anything in the tune off any custom adcs I might add.

Assuming I want to add an oil temperature sensor to cut RPM if it rises above a certain temperature, I don't even see a way to do that on my MS2. Is the MS3 able to do more with all these extra inputs, are they just for datalogging, or am I just missing something?

I mean I guess I could build a circuit to cut into the coolant sensor and cut the signal, that should max out 255 and a CLT based rev limiter off oil temp.

There'd be no way for me to pull timing by comparing a front and rear ADC from wheel speed sensors though, as a rough example, pretty sure the ms3 can do that naitivly, but would it be able to pull timing if it measured excessive EGT on one cylinder in comparison to the rest or something?

This looks like a fun project... Couple questions if anyone here knows the answer.

It says it can process the LC1 serial wideband input. Can it do AEM wideband serial as well?
Is there a way to get the ADC inputs to broadcast out over CAN via the dashboard broadcast mode? I'd like to get oil temp and oil pressure out.

You need custom code to do the revlimiter for oil temp.

I'm going to write it this winter at some point. I found where the revlimiter is, just need to figure out how to use the variables and memory. And connect to the ini files.

Yes, if you use the full CAN broadcast mode. The simple dash mode was designed for people who have a hard time making a sandwich. Use the full mode, and the sensor data is broadcastable as soon as you assign the ADC as a sensor input.

very cool. Thanks Ben.

WARNING: Ensure that your 2.5mm jack is held securely and will not vibrate much, otherwise you risk tearing the socket off the board.

The socket is only mounted, via solder, to 3 pads on the surface of the board - it SHOULD be mounted via pins that pass through the board and soldered on the underside:

Attachment 182428

I found this when mounting my sensor box in my glovebox and I couldn't "find" the socket when trying to insert the Innovate WideBand O2 2.5mm plug, two of the three legs had sheared off the mount pads and it was bent, held by the remaining leg.

Those 2 vertical holes you see between the solder pads are merely locating slots, the port's underside has 2 posts that slot into them - they do NOT fasten the port to the board!

I loved this board but it's not suitable for vehicle use since vibrations will eventually tear those pads off the board no matter how secure you make the plug.

If you are using this board, use a zip-tie over the port to secure it to the board so that you're not relying on the soldered legs, to the surface pads, to hold it in place.

I have 3 that I hope to integrate (MS2) this winter. Sub'd.

oh and don't ziptie, use glue like we do in industry for reliability. Silicone for resonance failures, epoxy for stress. BTW, this is stress.

Mine sheared off too, i soldered it back on. epoxy time. What kind? just normal glue?

You could even use JB weld if you want. Pretty much any decently low viscosity 2 part that bonds to plastics will work wonders. Run a bead along the edges and then fill the 2 positioning holes on the bottom.

you dont need much

There are no pads remaining where I've circled in green, they've sheared right off with the legs, so there's nothing to solder the legs to.

If you have one of these boards, be proactive, de-solder the legs, "glue" the underside of the jack port to the board, then re-solder the legs to the pad.

- You can see in my photo, based on how clean the base is, that there was nothing used to hold the jack port other than the soldered legs, definitely not good enough for vehicle use.

I think I used a jumper wire to reconnect it.

This makes me glad that I'm using neither of the headphone jacks. I2C through holes for a 14point7 wideband, and through holes for CAN connection.

Desoldering not required.

if the traces going to the pads are on the top layer, use an exacto to scrape the soldermask off a short section of the trace. Solder blue wire from the exposed trace to the component lead. Use CA or hot glue to protect and secure the blue wire and exposed trace.

Presto.