Tuner noob. need tuning for dummies.
 

Just built my miata with a nice turbo. It's running like shit and I was having someone just take care of the tuning for me. Long story short I'm on my own now.

96 1.8 miata
Mspnp2
Td04hl-15g

Here are my problems. I'm a extreme noob when it comes to this stuff. I barley know how tuner studio even works.

So, the problem is with idle. Cold start is fine and idles at 1500 rpm. Once the car is warm and I go to turn it on it usually dies. I need to stab the throttle to get it to find idle at around 800rpm. When I stab the throttle it leans out and stumbles. Thus problem only happens at low rpms below 2500. The majority of the time it stumbles off idle.

I can't seem to find any guides or setting guidelines. Could someone point me in the right direction?

Having just muddled through this myself, check the cells in the idle region of your VE table. I needed to richen things up to get a decent warm idle.

Stumbling when stabbing the throttle are your Acceleration Enrichments. I ended up going richer as well, though it was much more guess-and-check than the VE adjustments.

What injectors are you running? Have you scaled Required Fuel for them?

Have u tried autotune?

Ok I'm back. I'm running the Rx8 yellows. I had someone else do all the work for me. My problem is the car usually stalls when I give it gas from idle. I noticed at idle my timing was set at 17+ is that normal? Does anyone have a tune I can download? I'll mess with autotune tonight.

17+ is wayyyy off

Should I post logs of the car running?

what part of that is off?

17 degrees advanced? That is what we are talking about right?

There is nothing wrong with idling at 17 degrees in a miata motor. I idle somewhere around there.

I read it as he has timing set at 17 degrees in his spark table in the idle spots. Not 17 degrees advance at the crank and such.

Ohhh. i thought it was 17 at the crank:vash:

I believe I said that wrong. Yes I'm talking about the spark. I'll get back to the fourms after I do a little digging.

Don't take this the wrong way, but it's almost impossible for us to help you if you literally have no idea what you're doing. We would have to give you a month-long crash course of reading, learning, and understanding.

I'm glad you're not giving up though. Just start reading through the manual and various tuning threads on here and familiarizing yourself with it.
I have no idea what "at the crank" even means.
Spark is spark. There is just the spark table.

I take "at the crank" to mean when you have timing set to a static 10 degrees in MS and then on NA's manually adjust the CAS to advance the timing past 10 degrees.

Guys thanks for your help. Your right I'm too far behind to get the car running right. Classic case of once you pay someone for the work they delivered half done and disappear. If I want the car dome right in the near future I need to take it to someone. I'm in NE PA (scranton) anyone know of reputable shops?

I think Ken Hill or someone with close to that name is in PA and has years of tuning miata's experience.

Ken Hill at Oracle Tuning is in PA. I know he is a Hydra God and knows Miatas inside out. My friend had him tune an MSM and results were great.

Ok. So I've spent some time reading and learning AE. I've up my tpsdot setting to 50 and it seems to drive extremely nice now. Than drove around for half hour doing auto tune. I tried to give the car some different scenarios.

It was too hard to find a tuner tbh. So, I just didn't give up on it.

My next item I want to address is that the car idles at 1200 rpm. Where can I lower that to 800? I still have a slight lean stumble from idle. It happens intermittently is there anything else I should adjust.

I have a plastic rad. My car gets up too 220f sometimes. Yet my meter on the car only stays at halfway between h and c.

Last item folks. I bought the 50$ ebc from megasquirt. The damn thing has 0 instructions with it. Did anyone do a write up on where and how to wire this bad boy. If not I'm returning and buying the manual one because my new happy meal clutch wants that 12psi I've been trying to get all summer.

Yes thats what I was thinking

I'll just keep updating you guys. Idle screw adjusted hovering around 950rpm. Bought a MBC currently at 12lbs. Tried to fix ae adjustments. Ended up screwing it up now I got to start all over. It seems like I can't fix the stumble at idle with a throttle blip. I understand how to do it now vaguely. Any pointers from the pros out there?