1.6 to 1.8 swap
 

Hi all, I will soon do a 1.8 Turbo motor swap and convert to a standalone ECU on my 1993 1.6. So far here is what I have bought :
- 1.8 Non-VVT Turbo motor (1994) (CX Turbo Kit) (All needed 1.8 mechanical, electrical, cooling, and exhaust included)
- A couple of 1.8 Manual trans
- 1993 Megasquirt 2 Standalone ECU

Now my biggest questions to the people who know about this swap are:
- What 1.8 electronics and mechanical parts can I keep since I'm going standalone ( Oil pressure sender, Alternator, Coil packs, Throttle body, etc, etc )? I have read a lot on this swap but most posts are talking about keeping 1.6 electronics and mechanical parts because they're keeping stock ECU so there's a little blur on what I can and can't use
- What wiring will I 100% need to extend to work?
- Will I need the FM 1.6 to 1.8 kit?


P.S. I am adding a picture of my notes, let me know if something looks wrong or if I'm missing something. The stuff with "?" around them means I'm unsure. "*" means I'm decently sure.
Right now that's all I can think of but if I think of something else I will add it under, Chow!

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e11ef634f2.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a223599251.jpg

This is for a vvt swap, I'm swapping a 94 1.8 motor in that's already turbod

https://flyinmiata.com/products/1-6-...conversion-kit

Hustler I think is the 1.6/1.8 swap pro on here for Q's

https://s3.us-west-1.amazonaws.com/i...sc/1.8swap.pdf
*7 pages of instructions

Hope that helps

is there a way to mention or @ him? or if not could you link his profile? Also I've read the FM 1.6 to 1.8 guide multiple times and it leaves some blurry wishy washy parts bc they mainly talk about keeping stock ecu in it.

I think it might be @curly actually

You'll want to transfer over your oil pressure sender so your dash works properly. This doesn't go to the ECU at all, just the dash. I'd suggest a NA 1.8 alternator, so it's internally regulated. You can keep your 1.6 alternator, but then you'd have to swap your harmonic damper and oil pump pulley (1.6 is V belt, 1.8 is ribbed) Not a big deal to use the 1.6/v-belt stuff, but most harmonic dampers at this point should be replaced, and all aftermarket ones are 1.8 style, and I haven't checked, but I bet OE 1.6 ones are hard to find. You'll want aftermarket coils or FM's coil bracket, mounting bolts are vertical vs. horizontal on 1.6 vs. 1.8. You want to retain the 1.8 throttle body, but you'll need a wiring pigtail for the TPS and IAC. I'd suggest an NB unit if you can find one at a junk yard with both pigtails, the iac is routed through the throttle body vs. extremally, simplifying any future intake/intercooler routing. The NB IAC is also physically smaller, and most likely in better condition by 5ish years than any NA unit. Then you'll need to extend your CAS wiring to the exhaust side, and you need 1.8 motor mount brackets. You'll use everything except the throttle body adapter from the FM conversion kit. If you can source your own splices/wiring, and use a 1.8 throttle cable, you only need their coil mount. They sell motor mount brackets separately if you didn't get them with your donor engine. You'll need to swap your ECU coolant sensor over, and remove a plug to thread in your dash sensor, and also extend that single wire to reach it's new location. On NBs, Mazda went to a single 3 pin sensor, 2 for ECU, 1 for gauge. Feel free to use this sensor/pigtail if you'd like.

I'm at work so typing this quickly from memory, let me know here if you have any other questions.

This was exactly what I needed man thank you so much! I'll start the swap next week so I will let you know if I have any other questions, cheers!

Is this a NB1 engine? I ask because you mentioned VICS. If so, you'll need the NB1 fuel rail as well, with an upside down NA FPR replacing the stock pulse damper. Also choke down the $300 and do a Supermiata reroute at the same time.