1.8, 99 Cyl. Head, CP Carrillo H Beam, 9:1 JE Pistons
 

I recently purchased a 97 Miata with some modifications. The cockpit has been fitted with a Oil Temp Gauge, LC1 WB and a Vacuum/Boost Gauge. The engine is a Turbocharged 1.8L fitted with MS2 ECU n (Boom-sling Setup), while still using the factory ECU to run things such as IACV. The short-block consists of 9:1 JE Pistons, CP Carrillo H Beam Rods, and King Bearings. The 99 cylinder head is fitted with a stock 99 Intake Manifold & a Begi Gusseted/Reinforced Turbo Manifold with a 2871R Turbo. Fueling the engine is four injectors either 525cc or 550cc Injectors. The MS2 is all installed and the car runs. The electric boost controller is currently set at 14lbs, it has seen 24lbs. It's a 2 bar map sensor currently, wanting to go 3 bar if warranted. The exhaust is a full 3" SS with a Magnaflow Muffler connected.

My question(s) are 1.) How much power is attainable with what I have? 2.) Any suggestions on upgrades as well?

I will make another post regarding Batchfire and Seq/ Boom-sling and Standalone.

If you're not going to research your questions then it's best to just keep them all here in one thread.

Might want to read up on:
Megasquirt in general and why a piggy back setup like yours is rediculouse and a waste of time.

How to read a turbo map and how the map for your turbo will tell you exactly how much HP it will support.

An online calculator that will tell you what HP the injectors will support.

The 100's of threads on here that talk about what HP aftermarket rods and Pistons will take.

Then you can use all that research to answer your own question as to what your setup is good for.

Thanks for the response.

Get rid of your dual ECU setup, and just run megasquirt.
Do you know for sure what injectors you have?
What does your intercooler setup look like?
I would assume you are around 180 whp as is, but you have the potential for quite a bit more with a few tweaks and some modernization.

Ok I'll look into what all needs to be changed to go stand-alone. I would like to straighten the harness up and mount everything nice.
Not 100% sure I can definitely find out tomm. I do know they have a nice blue on them and say something injector, I'm pretty sure the PO said 525/550cc.
The Intercooler setup is a 2.25" piping and a smaller intercooler 18x6x3, def. not the bigger one.
Ouch lets try and bump that number up a bit. Thanks Monk!

Ehh I'd say your making quite a bit more than 180hp. Start with verifying the injector size as well as a log of the megasquirt while doing a full throttle sweep will tell us how much fuel you're using which is a way to sanity check your HP.

Here I'll spoon feed...... But you better put forth the effort to do a little research.
Fuel Injector Calculator from WitchHunter Performance

Injectors are 525 High Resistance, Injector Clinic Brand. I'll have to wait till the old lady gets home to do any data-logging, I'm on baby duty right now. Could you go into more detail on the full throttle sweep I should perform? I checked up on the injector calculator and it states that at 80% duty and a BSFC of .65 these will support 246 FWHP. Sounds pretty low... TBH Bronson it does feel a little quicker than 180hp.

180 was just a guess based on other similar piggyback setups I've seen. Your hardware is certainly capable of more.
The truth is, it doesn't really matter.
If you like it, and your engine isn't eating itself, then leave it.
If you want more power, then a full standalone and a good tune is where you should start.
Go full standalone, do some tuning, and do some virtual dyno pulls if you want a better idea of where you are.

Thanks for the insight Monk. Right now I am pretty happy with it. My problem is if it's built with parts that are capable of more then I will want to take full advantage of that.

On another note. I have downloaded TunerStudio and MegaLog Viewer. Before I proceed with setting up the TS, I haven't got the current tune that's on the car saved to my laptop. If I do the setup as TS suggest, will it erase my current tune because it won't find it saved?
I just read somewhere else that you could save the file then email to yourself. Owner tried that and it didn't work, leaving him starting from scratch. Luckily I can get the file from the po, I just don't have it now and wanted to run the full throttle sweep.

If you post a log of a WOT run I can put it through Virtual Dyno.

you need to just tell me what gear you ran it in. final ratio & tyre size. Weight would help saves me looking it up.

find a flat piece of road. Gun it in 2nd or 3rd. any slight downhill will increase your Power.....any uphill will decrease it. whell spin....will increase it dramatically

It will not be perfect but reasonably close.

Its late evening here in Australia....dont expect anything until tomorrw :)

or you can just download it.
https://barnhill.bitbucket.io

Piggy back vs. standalone shouldn't affect power, air is air, fuel is fuel, it's about getting it mixed in the proper quantity and lit off at the right time. It's just way way easier and consistent to do it with the megasquirt setup as a standalone.

I can't help you with the tunerstudio setup other than to tell you it's certainly possible to download your stock tune.

I talked with the PO earlier today and he says the only thing the MS is NOT controlling is the IACV and the Cooling Fans. So do I need to make the MS control those as well?

Well thanks for that bit of info. I will give it a shot sometime this week. I got some wheels I need to put on it to help prevent the wheel spin issue.

What kind of boost will this short-block realistically take? With a good tune of course. The cylinder heads a stock 99. I realize I should get a better intake and add some stuff to the head (ie: Stiffer springs, bigger exhaust valves, etc.).

I talked with the PO earlier today and he says the only thing the MS is NOT controlling is the IACV and the Cooling Fans. So do I need to make the MS control those as well?

Well thanks for that bit of info. I will give it a shot sometime this week. I got some wheels I need to put on it to help prevent the wheel spin issue.

What kind of boost will this short-block realistically take? With a good tune of course. The cylinder heads a stock 99. I realize I should get a better intake and add some stuff to the head (ie: Stiffer springs, bigger exhaust valves, etc.).

The motor will take well over twice what your transmission will. And probably more than the rear end will. And a lot more than you have fuel for.

I like to hear that! I've got somewhat of a fuel system for it as well. 8an lines 6an return Deatschwerks 300 pump (Not currently installed). I guess I'll dive into aftermarket trans and rear end info.

I'd research your way into a good ecu setup first. And some injectors.

You ain't even near diff breaking territory yet.

Will do concealer. Thanks.

Say what? It's pretty commonly accepted around here that the motor is good for 225 ft/LBS , 5 speed is good for darn near that depending on how you driver it, and the diff has held up North of 300ft/lb.

You certainly don't need bigger fuel lines or a pump that big. Anything bigger than a 190l/hr pump will out run the stock regulator.

Why on Earth the PO left those two basic functions on the OEM ECM is beyond me, swap those over and ditch the mess of a wiring harness I'm sure you have.

If a built motor craps out at 225ftlbs, then you suck at tuning. ;)