Have to Drop the Transmission!
05-29-2011, 03:31 PM
#1
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Have to Drop the Transmission!
So yesterday I was street tuning since it was the first time I was able to tune on e85 since I got the car inspected. It was running a bit rich at wot. Anyways, something came loose between the trans and motor. Hoping it was just a bolt that backed itself out and is kicking around in there. I didn't have a whole lot of load on the motor as I was accelerating out of boost, trying to hit all the sells. It happened around 5k rpm. I pulled off to the side of the road thinking the motor popped, or a rod broke loose from the sound of whatever bouncing around. Didn't take to long to figure out the motor is absolutely fine.... few
Car Still shifts fine, clutch feels just like it did before the incident, only thing wrong is the bouncing around of whatever and clutch pedal vibrating when engaged from said object. Said object does not bounce around with clutch disengaged. I decided that a tow home was my best option before whatever blows threw the housing. I know a few people that have had that happen when a dowel pin came off their light weight flywheels..... Not sure that this car has one, I don't think so...
Anyways, I just have a few questions for you guys. I did my searches on google and on both this forum and miata.net. Do I actually have to drain both fluids, the one for the shifter and the other in the trans itself. I have read that some people don't do this but me being new to the car and how things work I wasn't sure. If I don't let the trans tilt or tip to much it seems as if the shifter fluid will be fine. I planned on just tapping off the hole. Also, does the drive shaft have to be removed from the trans or can I just disconnect it at the diff. I wasn't sure if the drive shaft helps hold the oil in the trans like the axles do on the fwd vehicles I have worked on. If not than obviously I wouldn't have to drain the oil....so one would think anyways.
~Bryan
Car Still shifts fine, clutch feels just like it did before the incident, only thing wrong is the bouncing around of whatever and clutch pedal vibrating when engaged from said object. Said object does not bounce around with clutch disengaged. I decided that a tow home was my best option before whatever blows threw the housing. I know a few people that have had that happen when a dowel pin came off their light weight flywheels..... Not sure that this car has one, I don't think so...
Anyways, I just have a few questions for you guys. I did my searches on google and on both this forum and miata.net. Do I actually have to drain both fluids, the one for the shifter and the other in the trans itself. I have read that some people don't do this but me being new to the car and how things work I wasn't sure. If I don't let the trans tilt or tip to much it seems as if the shifter fluid will be fine. I planned on just tapping off the hole. Also, does the drive shaft have to be removed from the trans or can I just disconnect it at the diff. I wasn't sure if the drive shaft helps hold the oil in the trans like the axles do on the fwd vehicles I have worked on. If not than obviously I wouldn't have to drain the oil....so one would think anyways.
~Bryan
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05-29-2011, 03:56 PM
#3
Not sure whats rattling but just some facts:
1) flywheel is oem
2) clutch is an ACT sprung 6 puck with Xtreme pressure plate
3) Throw out and the other little bearing were both replaced with the ones that came with the clutch kit
You don't have to drain the shifter fluid. Just the trans fluid. Driveshaft unbolts from the diff and just slides out from the tranny.
If I were you I'd unbolt the trans 3/4, and take a peek inside. Don't take it off all the way unless you have to, because its a pain in the *** to align back with the engine unless you have a friend or two helping you out and even then its still a pain.
1) flywheel is oem
2) clutch is an ACT sprung 6 puck with Xtreme pressure plate
3) Throw out and the other little bearing were both replaced with the ones that came with the clutch kit
You don't have to drain the shifter fluid. Just the trans fluid. Driveshaft unbolts from the diff and just slides out from the tranny.
If I were you I'd unbolt the trans 3/4, and take a peek inside. Don't take it off all the way unless you have to, because its a pain in the *** to align back with the engine unless you have a friend or two helping you out and even then its still a pain.
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05-29-2011, 03:58 PM
#4
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I had thought about making something to cap off the top, not sure if I will be able to seal it up real tight but should be enough to stop any sudden spills. Already saw the rope suggestion. Thanks for the info!
I'll do that, how safe would it be to unbolt the trans and leave it there because I have to leave to my sisters soon for dinner. Or should I just wait till I get back? Probably just going to wait lol.
Not sure whats rattling but just some facts:
1) flywheel is oem
2) clutch is an ACT sprung 6 puck with Xtreme pressure plate
3) Throw out and the other little bearing were both replaced with the ones that came with the clutch kit
You don't have to drain the shifter fluid. Just the trans fluid. Driveshaft unbolts from the diff and just slides out from the tranny.
If I were you I'd unbolt the trans 3/4, and take a peek inside. Don't take it off all the way unless you have to, because its a pain in the *** to align back with the engine unless you have a friend or two helping you out and even then its still a pain.
1) flywheel is oem
2) clutch is an ACT sprung 6 puck with Xtreme pressure plate
3) Throw out and the other little bearing were both replaced with the ones that came with the clutch kit
You don't have to drain the shifter fluid. Just the trans fluid. Driveshaft unbolts from the diff and just slides out from the tranny.
If I were you I'd unbolt the trans 3/4, and take a peek inside. Don't take it off all the way unless you have to, because its a pain in the *** to align back with the engine unless you have a friend or two helping you out and even then its still a pain.
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05-29-2011, 08:03 PM
#5
One of the pressure plate bolts maybe. I always blue locktite the things, being the way I am. Or the little cover thing over the input shaft seal. I remember something what looked like a 12 mm bolt somewhere there. Sucks tho. Hate pulling the trans. Did it once and don't want to again. +1 on getting a hand tho. We messed with mine for an hour trying to realign it. Then bout gave up touched it going under the car and it popped right on
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05-29-2011, 11:19 PM
#10
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ugh, I can't get the top passenger side bolt off without taking the coolant line off and leaking coolant all over the place. Coolant seems to be a little high anyway so I guess I could just let it spill.... :P I have another trick I'm going to try first. And no, it hasn't really taken me this long, I'm just lazy/slow moving at times.
I hope nothing broke off lol, I'm willing to bet a bolt backed out due to the lack of locktite. HAHAHA, I wouldn't hold it against you tho. I think more of it as a learning experience and getting to know the car better. Plus, I will be doing this when I swap in a 6 speed. Going to wait till I come across something local or this one blows.
I hope nothing broke off lol, I'm willing to bet a bolt backed out due to the lack of locktite. HAHAHA, I wouldn't hold it against you tho. I think more of it as a learning experience and getting to know the car better. Plus, I will be doing this when I swap in a 6 speed. Going to wait till I come across something local or this one blows.
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05-30-2011, 01:48 AM
#12
I heel-toe every time I tap your *** baby
But on a serious note: that car has never been abruptly downshifted its whole lifetime with me. I rarely engine-braked at all and the times I did were all heel-toe'd.
If you can swing a 6 speed swap I'd do it asap. I think that transmission is at capacity as is. If you turn up the boost or make any more power on it I'm fairly sure it will **** the bed. 5-speeds are really not designed for 287wtq despite me baby-ing it most of its lifetime.
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05-30-2011, 10:06 AM
#13
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Trans is out now, I still have to move it off to the side so I can further inspect things. The clutch plate fell down after I separated the trans from the motor. Not sure if that means anything. I would think it should stay put until the bolts are actually loosened. I haven't checked any bolts yet. Didn't see anything laying inside the bell housing or anything that would have been kicking around. Whatever it is, I'll find out once I remove the clutch.
I'm hungry so I'm going to fill my face first.
I'm hungry so I'm going to fill my face first.
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05-30-2011, 01:14 PM
#15
Guess the clutch is DONE-zo.
Definitely not supposed to just drop down like that. I guess all the bolts came out.
Do yourself a favor: if this one ends up needing replacement, DO NOT get another pucked clutch. That is about the only thing I regretted doing on this car. Its just way to aggressive for daily driving.
Definitely not supposed to just drop down like that. I guess all the bolts came out.
Do yourself a favor: if this one ends up needing replacement, DO NOT get another pucked clutch. That is about the only thing I regretted doing on this car. Its just way to aggressive for daily driving.
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05-30-2011, 02:29 PM
#16
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Hopefully I just have to tighten some bolts, I really don't wanna have to replace this thing as it would mean more down time. If I really need to I could swap in the stock clutch, but not sure that will last to long. When I get a 6 speed I will get a different clutch for sure.
When I get a 6 speed I will get a different clutch for sure.
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05-30-2011, 05:03 PM
#18
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Clutch plate hadn't dropped, it was the pilot bearing that came loose and was slapping around the input shaft of the transmission. Thought great, I just have to replace the pilot bearing, although it still spins nice and smoothly, maybe I can re use it. I than pull the pressure plate and clutch plate out from under the car where I set it down. The pads are pretty much warn down to the rivets on both sides and flywheel and clutch plate are grooved up pretty well. So now here are my options, seeing as I need a new clutch....and need to resurface my flywheel or go with a light weight flywheel.
After some reading I came up with two options.
The cheaper of the two
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...000%20%2010.30
Than since I would only be swinging about 380 more
http://949racing.com/miata-twin-disc-clutch.aspxI would be going with the 400 ft-lbs Organic twin disc
My goals for the car max out around 320-350hp.
Anyways.... discuss....
After some reading I came up with two options.
The cheaper of the two
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...000%20%2010.30
Than since I would only be swinging about 380 more
http://949racing.com/miata-twin-disc-clutch.aspxI would be going with the 400 ft-lbs Organic twin disc
My goals for the car max out around 320-350hp.
Anyways.... discuss....
Last edited by Snowboardinwny; 05-30-2011 at 07:18 PM.
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05-30-2011, 07:05 PM
#19
The 2 links are to exactly same thing.(unless you intended to do that).
Great setup, the happy meal. Though you'll be right at its limits if you turn up the boost a little more.
I'd skip the lightweight flywheel. I'd just get the stocker resurfaced. Much easier to live with in daily/street driving, and not much benefit in a non-race car. Also you'd be saving quite a chunk of money.
Just my .02
Great setup, the happy meal. Though you'll be right at its limits if you turn up the boost a little more.
I'd skip the lightweight flywheel. I'd just get the stocker resurfaced. Much easier to live with in daily/street driving, and not much benefit in a non-race car. Also you'd be saving quite a chunk of money.
Just my .02
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05-30-2011, 07:35 PM
#20
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I fixed the link.
I'll probably just get the ring on the back of the flywheel shaved down. I have read that as an option also. I'm not to worried about streetability with the lightweight flywheel, had one on my previous summer car. I can shave it myself at work, but I can't balance it, so will just take it somewhere to get resurfaced and balanced once I get the clutch in. I'm about to order the FMII by the way.
I'll probably just get the ring on the back of the flywheel shaved down. I have read that as an option also. I'm not to worried about streetability with the lightweight flywheel, had one on my previous summer car. I can shave it myself at work, but I can't balance it, so will just take it somewhere to get resurfaced and balanced once I get the clutch in. I'm about to order the FMII by the way.
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