1.8 Forged TB Build: Potential Build List?
 

First post, so I'll try my best on formatting.

For starters, I have a stock BP3 1.8L previously pulled from a '97 with 169,000 miles. I pieced together and purchased a FM-based turbo setup a few months ago, but ended up having to move cross country before I could install it.
Current TB Parts(Simplified): MSPNP2(already installed and working great), Cobalt coolant reroute(already installed) Garret 2560R, FIC 650cc injectors, FM intercooler piping, Mishimoto intercooler, FM manifold/outlet//exhaust piping, Deatschwerks DW300 fuel pump, and a FM Stage 1 Clutch

My goal is to make 220-250whp (on roughly 15 pounds of boost) comfortably and reliably. Haha, turbo build that's reliable? Well, I'm trying. I've got the engine out, I've got a couple of months until it warms up, might as well go forged to increase my margin of failure.

Hence, my hypothetical list of new engine parts that I wanted to run by people more experienced than myself before I send the engine off for machine work (cylinders honed, head and block checked/decked if need be) and purchase the parts.
Rods: Manely Forged H-Beam Rods
Pistons and Rings: Supertech 84mm 9:1 Pistons with Wiseco ring packs
Oil Pump: Boundary Engineering Billet Street Oil Pump (unsure of what shim to run with)
Harmonic Damper: Fluidamper Crankshaft Damper
Bearings: ACL Main, Rod, and Thrust Bearings
Water Pump: Gates Water Pump
Head Gasket: Cometic 84mm Head Gasket (I'm under the correct assumption that it should be the same size as the cylinder/piston bore?)
Extras: Gates Racing Timing Kit, ARP Main and Head Stud Kits, FM NA8 Complete Oil Cooler Kit, Radium High Flow Fuel Rail and Plumbing Kit, Will be installing a DIY Catch-can setup

I feel like the current parts list gives me plenty of room to eventually upgrade and potentially go 300whp+, but at a minimum achieves that goal of being "reliable" and increasing that margin for failure. None of these parts are set in stone; if someone presents sound reasoning for a different option or says I need something not present I'm not against change. Just nothing of ebay-level quality I've tried my best to research this configuration of parts, just want to run it by a few more sets of eyes.
Thanks.

For your power goals you're swatting a fly with a cannon.
however, never having to worry about touching the bottom end again is good insurance. Dont put time/effort into the na head though, you'd get better dividends out of nb ports.

Overbuilding while its out is a good idea. Guaranteed you will not be happy with 250hp for long.

The Wiseco and ST rings are the same, so don't over think that, OE head gasket and thrust bearing. Over building is better than the alternative.

I was short on time when I made the previous post and thought that a solid recommendation would be adequate. Unfortunately, not everyone is happy without a detailed explanation. For the betterment of the forum here is the reasoning for these recommendations.

I have purchased several sets of the ACL thrust bearings in the past and they just don't measure well, they vary in thickness and the crank contact is spotty. The factory thrust bearings are readily available, better quality and are manufactured to tighter tolerances.

The factory head gasket is better quality than the Cometic, the same price and is included with the factory engine gasket set. The factory gasket set is definitely the best option for these engines. If I were building a larger overbore naturally aspirated BP that was beyond the limits of the factory gasket, than the Cometic would be an option.

The ring debate is almost as bad as the oil threads. The aftermarket forged pistons do not use the same size rings sizes as the OE pistons. Wiseco, JE, CP and ST (Mahle) all supply the same ring pack with their pistons. These rings are made by NPR. I looked at NPR's catalog and they did list 3 PN#'s that had the correct geometry. I have spoken with all of these companies and have had a few good conversations with NPR about this application. Of the 3 PN#'s one was discontinued (XC3307), and the other was a large gap version (XC3307LG) which will not work for this application.

The popular information about these ring packs is incorrect. The standard gas nitrided ring pack is the correct ring for the application. It is the most modern design and utilizes the best materials. There is a claim that that the other chrome option has a higher tension oil control ring and this is not true it is the opposite. Also not true is that the Wiseco XX ring, PN#8400XX is different then the rings supplied by the other manufacturers. Below is a line from Wiseco's catalog clearly stating that the 8400XX is agas nitrited upper ring. There is also a copy of the NPR catalog with the ring options. FWIW NPR says the chrome ring is the poorest option for any modern engine, stock or modified.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...46b6a99d83.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...45af3dd2ea.jpg

I’ve got a very similar build except Wiseco 83.5mm pistons, but it’s been at the machine shop for around 5 months I believe. Hope your machine shop doesn’t suck like mine haha.

But anyways, I believe I made ~220whp with only 12 psi. 15 might be close to blowing the stock internals out of the bottom, so forging is a good idea. I plan on running my 2560R for a season while I catch up on suspension and other mods, before upgrading to a pulsar equivalent of the g25-550 for 400whp/350wtq with a gentle boost taper to keep my 6 speed alive. If you want more than 400whp it’s advisable to throw in mazworx billet main caps, but if you’re not wanting more than the 2560R can provide, just send it. But it’s cheap insurance if you think you’ll ever want more.