1.8 Turbo Rebuild (need some advice)
So the other day I noticed a ticking sound coming from my engine. Also I noticed I was smoking on decel. Sounds like the noise is coming from the bottom end. But not a rod knock. Not sure what it is just yet. It supposedly already has forged rods. So being that I going to rebuild it, I am want to go bigger and better. I am going to aim for 280-320 horsepower (currently at 228)
Here is a list of modifications to date: 95 Miata PS, power windows, no A/C MegaSquirt MS1 DIY LC1 wideband FM manifold GT2560R, low miles, boost currently set to 14 PSI Custom 2.5" downpipe FM 2.5" cat-back Large CX-Racing Intercooler FM intercooler hose and elbow Turbosmart Vee-Port Pro BOV 3-row radiator (fully ducted) Toyota COPs coolant re-route 460cc Injectors (RX7) 6-speed transmission F1-Racing Stage 3 clutch Polyurethane control arm / diff / motor mounts R-package Bilsteins with 450lb / 250lb springs with Ground Control Kit BC coilovers (in a box. not sure if they would be better) SuperMiata Sway Bar kit from 949Racing Stock brakes with large brake cooling ducts / powerslot rotors 6UL 15x8 wheels / 225x45 BFGoodrich Rivals GV Rep front lip / R-package rear spoiler Sparco EVO 2 driver seat fixed to floor using side mounts Sparco 4-point harness Hard Dog double-diagonal roll bar with harness bar Carbing front strut bar Carbing rear strut bar cut rear bumper These are what I have/will be purchasing: BE Street Oil Pump Eagle Rods with ARP bolts (have) Supertech 8.6:1 pistons FM dual feed fuel rail (have) ID 1000cc Injectors ACL bearings (have) ARP studs/bolts (have) Timing belt/water pump Garret GT2860RS with a T3 hotside (have) 3" downpipe/3" exhaust into a Greddy RS AEM Tru-Boost controller (have) oil cooler building a new intake WI kit (not sure if ill use it but have) My question is, Is this going to get me to my goal? Is there something I am not thinking of that I need? The car is not really a daily but i do like to drive a lot. Any positive/helpful advice would be appreciated. |
If you're doing all that you may as well get a BE oil pump. It's debatable to get one at that power level but i'd just do it so I wouldn't have to deal with it later.
~$300 is small price in the grand scheme I think. rest looks like good. Id also buy ARP main bolts. |
Originally Posted by krissetsfire
(Post 1049326)
If you're doing all that you may as well get a BE oil pump. It's debatable to get one at that power level but i'd just do it so I wouldn't have to deal with it later.
~$300 is small price in the grand scheme I think. rest looks like good. Id also buy ARP main bolts. |
Reliability. Also I'd go with ID1000s over DW700s.
I'd say go for the Borg but it wouldn't fit your manifold. Maybe a 2860. For 280-320 the 2871 is a bit overkill. In fact your 2560 will max out at around 320 running ALLOFIT. |
Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1049329)
Reliability. Also I'd go with ID1000s over DW700s.
I'd say go for the Borg but it wouldn't fit your manifold. Maybe a 2860. For 280-320 the 2871 is a bit overkill. In fact your 2560 will max out at around 320 running ALLOFIT. You say ID1000s over the DW700s but how are the IDs more reliable? I guess what do you mean by more reliable? |
They are way newer and better technology, and will run smoother and idle better.
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He said reliability in response to your question "what is the benefit of upgrading the oil pump? better flow or better reliability?" As far as injector choice goes either will work for what you are looking to make power wise but it seems the ID1000s are preferred by most people here.
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Originally Posted by ThunderKunt
(Post 1049542)
He said reliability in response to your question "what is the benefit of upgrading the oil pump? better flow or better reliability?" As far as injector choice goes either will work for what you are looking to make power wise but it seems the ID1000s are preferred by most people here.
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Its not pure power potential that differentiates 1 vs the other. They will be way way better because of what I mentioned above. If you don't care how smooth and precise your fueling is, then I guess there's no difference. Most prefer their car to run more efficiently and smooth though.
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If they are that much smoother I will definitely want the IDs over the DWs. I had DWs in my Suby and they seemed to work just fine. If IDs are noticeably better I would rather go that route. Thanks for the advice
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