MX5RACER

I am running Toyota COP's, batch. The mounting points on the coils themselves need to be removed. I bought some flat stock from Home-depot and some plastic risers and used the existing '01+ coil mounts.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

It is a pace MBT 350. I loved having all 3 tools there at what ever temperature I needed. It was a truly amazing machine, unfortunately it cost a shitton.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Yeah it costs as much as my ST50 and ST115 combined. Duh.

ReplaceDisplace

Obviously decided to use Toyota coil on plugs. Gonna do them fully sequential. This is the first mock up of the setup. I need some spacers between the bracket and the valve cover and I'm considering using threaded rods and stainless steel acorn nuts on top for a more finished look. Whatcha guys think?

Johnny2Bad

I have no problems finding tin/lead solder. All the usual electronics suppliers stock it.

You will always be able to buy it; ALL military/aerospace electronics are ROHS exempt and are required to be lead soldered due to reliability issues with lead free; NASA requires lead in all it's soldered components. Medical electronics, computer servers, telecom equipment, Aircraft, and other critical electronics are also exempt and invariably use lead solder. NASA had 10 examples of satellites as of 2007 that failed due to tin whiskers from lead free assemblies.

However that is at the component level (high propensity to generate tin whiskers) and soldering wire won't be a problem with lead free; it can take the higher heat that lead-free requires and wire is a straightforward assembly, unlike SMD components or high pin count chips and connectors.

Tin whiskers have also been the cause of dud missiles, shut down nuclear plants (7 instances), dead radar in military jets, forced a recall of pacemakers, caused an issue with the shuttle where they were near max steering correction due to tin whiskers shorting components and forcing the rocket engines off course ...

But leaving that aside, what exactly is the lead free solder you're using? There are many people who would love to find a reliable lead free product, especially one that flows better than tin/lead; myself among them. None of the products I've tried so far are acceptable, they've all ended up in my plumbing toolbox. Best I've found so far is silver/tin/copper, but it needs high heat.

ReplaceDisplace

I smell a thread hijack....

ReplaceDisplace

Random question....should I hook up the factory knock sensor to the MS? Or is there an aftermarket type I need? Thanks

ReplaceDisplace

Not that anyone is really following this but I figured I'd update. Instead of my solder idea, all connections are going to be done via weatherpack connectors. I've gathered the vast majority of the parts I'll need. Now I just need a few exhaust bits and I can get started. I'm using the 22 pin bulkhead connector to connect the vvt engine harness (most of it) to the 1.6 car harness.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Link to weatherpack connectors?

tasty danish

iTrader: (9)

So you're wiring it all into one bulk head connector and not a assload of 3 or 4 pin connectors right? Cuz that would be hack.

And make sure none of your weatherpack's carry a significant current load. Get into metripacks if they do.

And get a REAL weatherpack crimper. Seriously makes a difference. Normal "2 stage" crimpers are for crimping wire insulation, and will mangle the round weatherpack seals. Metripacks can be crimped with a weatherpack crimper but it will not automatically set the crimp depth so you'll have to balance the pin in the tool when you crimp. Kind of fiddly but not bad.

I prefer to dab solder on my crimps. And splice wires with uninsulated butt splices, then solder those.

Get serious about stress relief. good heatshrink, adhesive lined. wrap your harness with something, be it braided sleeve or if you're a real man: deray flexible heatshrink (like raychem v22 but 1/2-1/4 the cost). Anchor the harness every foot or so. I also like to pack my heatshrink with dielectric grease.

I think wiring and connectors/lines (oil, fuel, etc) are what separate "meh" builds from "awesome"

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I have this set of connectors.

ReplaceDisplace

Here go.
Weather Pack 22 position bulkhead connector kit DIYAutoTune.com

755 Piece Weather Pack Kit DIYAutoTune.com

ReplaceDisplace

So you're wiring it all into one bulk head connector and not a assload of 3 or 4 pin connectors right? Cuz that would be hack.

Indeed Weather Pack 22 position bulkhead connector kit DIYAutoTune.com

Most of it's going into that one.

And make sure none of your weatherpack's carry a significant current load. Get into metripacks if they do.

The most significant load is going to be the ignition coils... Why would that be a problem?

And get a REAL weatherpack crimper. Seriously makes a difference. Normal "2 stage" crimpers are for crimping wire insulation, and will mangle the round weatherpack seals. Metripacks can be crimped with a weatherpack crimper but it will not automatically set the crimp depth so you'll have to balance the pin in the tool when you crimp. Kind of fiddly but not bad.

Got it covered.
Ratcheting crimper for Weather Pack connectors DIYAutoTune.com

I prefer to dab solder on my crimps. And splice wires with uninsulated butt splices, then solder those.

Get serious about stress relief. good heatshrink, adhesive lined. wrap your harness with something, be it braided sleeve or if you're a real man: deray flexible heatshrink (like raychem v22 but 1/2-1/4 the cost). Anchor the harness every foot or so. I also like to pack my heatshrink with dielectric grease.

Where does one acquire the Deray stuff? I'm good on stress relief. I drink heavily. Also, almost all the wiring is factory stuff. The wiring is factory from the engine all the way to where the bulkhead connector will be and the 1.6 wiring will be mostly the same up to that point. I'll be adding a small harness from the coils to the ignitor wiring, from the passenger side where the wiring goes to the idle control, tps, p/s pressure switch, and temp sensor to the bulkhead connector, and a few small wires from the bulkhead connector to the ECU. Not sure how much stress relief I'll really need on those.

I think wiring and connectors/lines (oil, fuel, etc) are what separate "meh" builds from "awesome"

Agreed

tasty danish

iTrader: (9)

Glad to hear you have a good head about doing this right. The issue with weatherpacks is they are only rated to 20 amps. I'm not sure what the ignition coils draw but they may be ok.

Really 90% of the wires in a car are fine but some things, like electric fans, fuel pumps, and headlights, are borderline. And using it anywhere going to the alternator or starter (unless it's a signal wire) is asking for trouble.

You should probably be fine on stress relief using stock hold downs and heavy drinking. I mainly say that for anything that may be soldered. I'm a huge solder fan and I've never had a failed joint, but I understand the stance against it. I'm slowly warming up to crimping, now that I'm independently wealthy and can afford good crimp tools.

BTW: harborfreight has a hydraulic crimper that is NICE for doing big wires like battery terminals.

As for your other questions, this post is amazing:
Building your own wire harness? Check here.

ReplaceDisplace

Anything that draws any major current is going to stay just the way it is as far as the wiring is concerned, so I think I'm ok on that front. Good to know that they're rated at 20 amps. Didn't know that. I like soldering myself...mostly because I'm cheap. The main reason I'm sticking to mostly weather pack connectors on this project is simply the complexity of it. If something goes wrong, (which inevitably something will with a project like this) I'd prefer not to have to slice and diced though all the heat shrink and everything to find one wrong connection. I'll have to check out that HF crimper. Sounds like something I could use. Also, your link is amazing. I've been trying to find a decent source for that kind of stuff for some time now. You wouldn't happen to know where to find shielded wire would you?

ReplaceDisplace

Does anyone know if the flange on the 01-05 "downpipe" bolts up to a 94-97 catalytic converter?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

dont think so

tasty danish

iTrader: (9)

When I'm buying wire I usually just search for "tefzel" in ebay or "pretinned."

I like to use DIY's harnesses, but if I need extra wire I get the really tiny strand, tinned milspec stuff from some cheap website or ebay. I don't bother getting like super crazy name brand milspec wire because nothing else in the harness is that way and I figure using pre-tinned stuff already puts me ahead of the game anyhow. I'm pretty sure mcmaster has cheap shielded wire too.

More knowledge for you: get yourself MIL-T43435B lacing cord. You can get more than you'd ever use for like $10 on ebay. More handy and lighter than cable ties. Worth it's weight in gold. We use this stuff everywhere on our aircraft. You only see cable ties to hold something to a hard point. Bundling wires you'll always see lacing cord. It's also really great to help tie down self-fusing silicone tape, which I've found can sometimes let go on the edges.

Here's another link:

Motorsports ECU Wiring Harness Construction

ReplaceDisplace

I'll keep that in find next time I need wire. The wire I'm using now is actually all scavenged from another Miata wiring harness. I looked at McMaster and they have something similar to what I was looking for. Thanks!

Does that lacing cord have a temperature rating? Looks like something I'll need to pick up.

Before I started I actually read that entire article you linked Then I went looking for some of the connectors and products mentioned.....Ridiculous stuff...... Retardedly cool and expensive at the same time.

tasty danish

iTrader: (9)

I think the milspec stuff has to be rated to like ~300*F

I take this stuff flying daily, next to a jet turbine; so I have 100% confidence of it lasting in my car.

Yeah that link is over the top, but I take some of the bigger ideas and try and filter it down to something more practical I can do.