kollunz

Went to Laguna Seca with this intake last month, it held up great with no issues. I felt that it "slightly" improved my acceleration in the high RPM range, but nothing significant. The extra noise was awesome to hear though. Overall, a fun mod to do.

I am considering going megasquirt in the near future, where is everyone installing their air intake temp sensor with this intake? I thought about replacing the factory MAF( that currently sits in between the two silicone pieces) with a pipe that has a bung hole opening to place the sensor in.
However, a majority of the intake tubing sits right above and behind the radiator, and this is potentially a bad spot to place the sensor since it's right in the path of the hot air flying out of the radiator which may cause heat soak? Would it better to place the sensor inside of the 3d printed piece since it sits before the radiator where it receives the coldest air right after the cone filter? Or maybe I'm overthinking it.

WrenchGame

I recommend putting it in the end of the air filter. This thread got really long so I don't expect people to have read the whole thing anymore. I made a dual wall cross over tube and did everything I could to isolate/insolate the IAT sensor. I also did a bunch of air measurements from in front of the radiator. The conclusion I came to is that it is best to put the IAT sensor into the end of the air filter and read the air before it enters the intake system. The air temp change from the radiator to the end of the crossover tube was small enough that it didn't make sense to fight heat soak on hot restarts.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Epoxy resin bonds really well to PC.

WrenchGame

This printer design is getting a bit out of hand. I'm waiting on a bunch of parts from small manufactures (and china) so it will be a few weeks until I have it running.

For anyone here into printing its going to look like this:

Chamber: Polycarbonate enclosure with Ac heater. I'm trying to work out ways to do temp above 90c but a few parts are giving me trouble. Belts might just be a wear item I replace regularly since I can't find any 2mm x 6mm gt2 belts rated over 84c. Ventilation through a hepa/carbon scrubber.

Hotend: e3d volcano with large nozzle, titanium heatbrake, watercooled body. Pt100 sensor for printing above 300c

Build plate: mic6 with 750w ac silicone heater. Magnets epoxied to underside and removable 24 gauge cold roll plates with PEI

Linear motion: Hiwin clone rails for X/Y. Repack all bearings in the printer with superlube

Controller will be a duet wifi. Extruder is a bondtech BMG.

stevos555

what about IAT in the TB elbow?

The Driver

Any chance for the intake itself to be a bit "shallower" than earlier editions? I LOVED the one I bought, and I would still have it, had the intake not died during the wreck that took my NA away. But there were prior posts (reports?) of not been able to use the 949/Supermiata radiator, for lack of space.

Is that asking for too much?

dleavitt

iTrader: (1)

I was the one that had that issue. At least on my car, I don't think there is enough space even if the intake piece is shallower/flatter. This was a year ago now, but I clayed the space later and it was REALLY tight. That being said, if we cut off some of the hood supports we probably could have fit it. I just didn't want to go that far considering I will be turbocharging in the near future.

The Driver

Thanks for your MOST timely post. Cutting hood support, is not something I'd like to do. But it cost me nothing to ask ASMASM if it could be narrower/shallower.

WrenchGame

Flatter directly equates to less flow- The less the cross section changes shape, the better.

Without the hood support structure, there is a lot of extra space for different radiator designs but I recognize some people aren't as happy to take a grinder to their car. You can also hammer the structure without affecting the hood skin. There are going to be some radiators that just don't fit well with my intake. Additionally, there is quite a bit of variation in hood height as the rubber bumpers that hold up the hood age.

If anyone has a broken or leaking supermiata radiator and wants to send it my way for test fitting PM me.

97black

was wondering if you could send me the link for the Stl file so I can this part printed I went to your site and the link won't pull up with the page thanks

rrjwilson

Just to say polycarbonate is an expletive to work with and the glass transition property can be found in Extrudr Greentec Pro and it prints like PLA. Its kind of wonderful. I printed an air conditioner hose adaptor with it which sees 95°C nominal.

I have also used it to produce some hangers for a large roller blind screen in my backyard. 6m scaffold pole (31kg) and two superking bed sheets (soaked in water protection). Currently I'm fighting with making it roll properly so we can have projector parties for the summer.
Needless to say I recommend this filament for functional prints.

WrenchGame

Update. I am working super long hours on Wrench and haven't had time for this. I decided to publish the updated design under the least restrictive creative commons license so that others could have at it:
Updated Miata air intake design now available | Wrench Game

kollunz

Thanks for posting this updated version! I tried uploading the intake_1.2.obj file onto 3dhubs, but it says "File does not appear to contain a valid model"? I can open it up in Windows10 print 3d app, but a popup appears asking to locate the material library.

WrenchGame

Cura loads the OBJs fine. I just added another format (fbx) for you to try on 3d hubs.

PEI/Ultem would be what you really want on 3d hubs but right now its not showing any printing availability for me:
https://i.imgur.com/1NtumPt.png

kollunz

Thanks for the update!

Do you have any other recommendations for a printing service with the proper material?

WrenchGame

They are the only consumer oriented printing service I know of that offers it. For higher performance plastics you will probably need to go to a printing service intended for industry:
https://www.materialise.com/en/manuf.../polycarbonate
https://www.3dxtech.com/blog/ultem-p...nting-service/

What material you pick depends on a combination of how much you are willing to risk breaking/melting and what kind of heat you are going to throw at it. Ultem is probably overkill. Polycarbonate should work very well.

I'll do some digging around and see if I can find anything.

WrenchGame

I tried out stratasys direct instant quote, after some model tweaking this was the cheapest result I could get:
https://i.imgur.com/2sPQ08s.png


That quote is actually quite a bit cheaper than I thought it would be. Waiting on a quote from a cheaper service.

kollunz

Would nylon be acceptable? I have your original release printed in a breath3dp nylon filament and it's been holding up well with some minor warping on the outlet tube side.

The Driver

Wrenchgame, I'm game to order another one, to replace the one that got destroyed in the crash.

WrenchGame

I would be concerned about nylon absorbing water and getting soft. Assume the thinner walls means that if a material is going to fail, it will happen faster. The data sheet on that nylon claims 110c, which is pretty good, except that consumer 3d printing filaments tend to overestimate their thermal performance and often don't specify a testing method. At least if you do a print in a non fiber filled material, it ought to fail in a way that doesn't cause massive engine damage.