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-   -   99-2000 head on a 94 block what considerations are there for this swap? (https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/99-2000-head-94-block-what-considerations-there-swap-70048/)

Jebrccars 12-20-2012 01:01 AM

99-2000 head on a 94 block what considerations are there for this swap?
 
I just got my 1990 Miata. I also picked up a 94 1.8L block and crank both are stock untouched and both spec out fine. I want to run a 99-00 head or go to a 01-04 head I know the 01 up have VVT and I am not sure if I have the tuning skills to tackle that so was considering getting a 99-00 head for now. The 1.6L in the car now needs a head and I got one local from U pull N pay for $75. I am having it redone as the stock head had some cam hold down bolts striped out from previous owner. I am gonna do a turbo build and so here is what I am thinking correct anything you think is not right.

* 94 1.8L block line honed, ARP studs, bored .5mm over,decked just enough to provide a good seal, Torque plate honed to supertech's specs for the pistons below.
* Supertech P4-MA8350-N4 pistons they are 8.5:1 comp.
* Eagle H beam rods with ARP2000 bolts.
*99-00 head with a little clean up in the ports and bowl work.
I was considering a exh,int cam swap but I have looked around on here and some say this year really doe not make that much difference is that true?

So my questions now are what year head gasket to get? I know I have read that this swap works so what other considerations are there? I am gonna get a 99-00 intake and I am building the turbo header. I am getting an after market fuel rail kit and 850cc injectors. and a 255LPH pump I have -6an and -8an fuel lines from my other projects. I have turbo charged V8 cars a 78 VW sirocco, a few messed with and tuned a few dodge 2.2L and 2.5L turbo cars as well as a few DSM's, but this will be my first miata build. So any help or good advice would be nice. I am new to miata's but not new to building cars that said most my experience is with racing classic muscle cars and all out tube chassis drag race cars.

I am going with a mega squirt 2 or 3 or a AEM not made up my mind on that yet.
Jeff

hustler 12-20-2012 01:10 AM

99 headgasket (Fel-Pro from Vatozone is fine)
Ignore the ARP torque specs
Get a square top if you can, they are worth the $500 price.
You can use the factory rail.
Enjoy the low-compression, it's awesome.

Jebrccars 12-20-2012 01:53 AM


Originally Posted by hustler (Post 961035)
99 headgasket (Fel-Pro from Vatozone is fine)
Ignore the ARP torque specs
Get a square top if you can, they are worth the $500 price.
You can use the factory rail.
Enjoy the low-compression, it's awesome.

thanks figured the 99 head gasket was right but not having worked on one of these before figured I better ask. I was looking at a OEM one or a cometic one. the pistons call for a head gasket and deck height of .060" not sure what all that involves on this block.

Leafy 12-20-2012 01:27 PM

Any reason you're not just buying the whole 99 or vvt engine?

Jebrccars 12-21-2012 01:27 AM


Originally Posted by Leafy (Post 961210)
Any reason you're not just buying the whole 99 or vvt engine?

already have the 94 block and crank shaft came in a trade deal.

mikeboldt 12-21-2012 02:13 AM

Starting a build thread? This is a super similar build to what I wanted to do...

Jebrccars 01-19-2013 10:10 PM


Originally Posted by Jebrccars (Post 961040)
thanks figured the 99 head gasket was right but not having worked on one of these before figured I better ask. I was looking at a OEM one or a cometic one. the pistons call for a head gasket and deck height of .060" not sure what all that involves on this block.


Originally Posted by mikeboldt (Post 961427)
Starting a build thread? This is a super similar build to what I wanted to do...

may start a build thread when the build actually starts. got a different car now lol. but still gonna build the 94 block but picked up a 95 M edition.

Jebrccars 01-19-2013 10:11 PM


Originally Posted by hustler (Post 961035)
99 headgasket (Fel-Pro from Vatozone is fine)
Ignore the ARP torque specs
Get a square top if you can, they are worth the $500 price.
You can use the factory rail.
Enjoy the low-compression, it's awesome.

what is a square top?

TheScaryOne 02-13-2013 04:18 PM


Originally Posted by Jebrccars (Post 969984)
what is a square top?

It's the 01+ JDM/EDM intake which has a larger volume and more flow (and longer runners?) than the restrictive stock North American garbage we got. IIRC there's also no VICS or VTCS.

Do a search on here, or on Google. You can occasionally find them used in the $300 range, or if you can find someone who doesn't know what they have you can score one for the same price as stock. Keep an eye on eBay. Sometimes some of these engine importers will get one on a bad engine and part it out.

Edit: Whoops. Didn't check post date.:loser:

TorqueZombie 02-13-2013 04:31 PM

Why ignore ARP torque specs?

TheScaryOne 02-13-2013 04:42 PM

Factory spec is 56-60 ft/lb
ARP spec is 71 ft/lb

The ARP fastener has a tighter thread pitch and provides more clamping force at the stock torque than the stock fastener. Tighten them down to 71 ft/lb and you'll probably crack your head bosses.

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...e-miata-54746/

soviet 02-13-2013 04:58 PM

because they are wrong

TorqueZombie 02-13-2013 10:12 PM

Thanks for the link. Seems 65ish is the sweet spot after a read through. Maybe slightly less.


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