99 head swap backfires won't start
I swapped out my warped 96 head for a 99 head. I had the 99 head taken to a machine shop and had them shave.008 off to make sure it was straight. Then put it on the car. everything went smoothly with the installation except that we had to take about a 1/4 inch off the bottom of the passenger side chain cover mounting bracket(the stamped steel one that sits behind the cam gears).
Now the car will not start. And is back firing through the intake when cranking. I really think that it is the ignition timing but i'm not sure of a great way to verify that it is sparking at TDC of compression stroke. Ive tried moving the cam sensor to see if it would help. and it can stop the backfire, or it can cause a flame to shoot out of the throttle body depending on where it's positioned. The car is a 92 with 96 block, 99 head, 90-93 MSPNP. any advice would be appreciated. |
Flip the ignition wires. Sounds like you've got the 1/4 plugs connected to the 2/3 coils and vise-versa.
The relative positions of the two coils are reversed on the 1.6 engine as compared to all of 94-00 1.8s. It actually doesn't matter which coil is which, so long as the correct path of ECU wire -> coil -> plugs is maintained. EDIT: just noticed that this was only a head swap, not an engine swap. Are the ignition wires hooked up the same as when this was working with the '96 head? |
Did you install the timing belt correctly.?
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I bet the cam gear on one of the cams is off. When crank is at tdc the front cam lobes on both cams should be pointed outwards.
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(zack morris's phone)
Sounds familiar doesn't it lars.... |
I would check the cam timing.
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Another vote for cam timing.
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Cam timing.
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We checked it a few times. The cam timing seems spot on.
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Originally Posted by AredMiata
(Post 764029)
We checked it a few times. The cam timing seems spot on.
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If you want to check ignition timing:
Disconnect the injector connectors. Pull out the spark-plugs Put the spark-plugs in the Spark-plug-connector and ground them to the engine block. Now check timing with the timinglamp. As for the cams: you can mount the cam-sprocket wrong. The wheel for the exhaust and intake are the same but they are mounted specificly for their function. Check the manual. |
Originally Posted by AredMiata
(Post 764029)
We checked it a few times. The cam timing seems spot on.
The only other thing it could be is if you crossed the spark plug leads or the coil plugs (plugging the 1/4 coil harness into the 2/3 coil) |
In for failed timing pics. Some one should figure out what it takes to time it to run the intake as exhaust and vise versa. I'm surprised some timing belt first timers havent stumbled upon it yet.
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Thanks for the lack of confidence fellas, lol. Seriously hope you guys are right! I will go check and take pics.
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we doubt because we care.
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Originally Posted by AredMiata
(Post 764029)
The cam timing seems spot on.
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2 Attachment(s)
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Thanks fellas, guess I decided that it would be good to line them up without reading the letter on the stamped steel plate. Yay For Miata Turbo And All Those Who Doubted! Thanks Everyone!
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Originally Posted by guestlive85
(Post 764146)
Well, you did it wrong as we thought. you have E lined up with I on the intake side, and I lined up with E on the exhaust side... when you do it correctly, I and E will point veritcally and you should have 19 belt teeth between those two marks. the Cam lobes will also point away from each other. |
Originally Posted by guestlive85
(Post 764146)
Crank
Cams Cylinder # 1 Lobes E = Exhaust, I = Intake, both point to 12 O'Clock whan the crank points to 12. |
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Since you probably had the cam gears off, Make sure that the pin in the exhaust points to E and the pin in the Intake points to I.
When everything lines up, your first cam lobes should point outward, also. |
that link describes it better.
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Originally Posted by olderguy
(Post 764166)
Since you probably had the cam gears off, Make sure that the pin in the exhaust points to E and the pin in the Intake points to I.
When everything lines up, your first cam lobes should point outward, also. |
Update: the car now starts.
But will only idle with the throttle cracked, Vacuum is low around 5 in hg, and its running around 10 A/F normally 12A/F at idle. the IAC is sucking what seems like a lot of air. If I plug the IAC and start it with the throttle cracked it pulls almost 10 in hg. I will let the car cool down then try cam timing again? any other thoughts? |
More pictures just in case, please.
I loved "We doubt because we care", hahaha! |
okay I will tear into it again and send more pics
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1 Attachment(s)
it's pretty easy. here's how the cam lobes are supposed to be on the first cylinder closest to the timing belt.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1314386721 |
2 Attachment(s)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1314395440
correct cam timing https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1314395440 New plug, ran about 30 minutes |
The car is running rich, has a low idle around 500R RPM, and has low vacuum around 5 In Hg. Any pointers?
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Could be a tooth off?
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Bent valve? lol j/k.
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playing with the cam sensor position brought the idle way up and also brought the vacuum up to about 17 in Hg. Still quite not right but I will mess with it more on Sunday.
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lol @ "we doubt because we care" :makeout:
Compression test to rule out the obvious, then reset your base timing. |
I dont know if that mark on the wheel is just a scratch or an indicator mark but are you sure the cam is lined up correctly?
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Reset MS and did base timing it runs pretty well now just need to iron out a few things with the tune and all should be good. Thanks again for everyone's help!
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