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Old 10-15-2009, 04:42 PM   #1
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Default All your detonation are belong to us

Pulled the effer last night.


Take piston out and here is what I see:



Melted out the ***. I knew that already obviously but didn't know it was this bad, if that makes any sense.

My father inspected it and is 150% sure its due to MAINLY shitty ignition settings. The contributing factor was improper cooling.

Here is what the wall looks like:


Scuffed at the very top but DEFINITELY not as bad as it looks in the pics. Fingernails barely catch on it.



So anyhow, we went around ALL the junk yards within 50 miles of here and compression tested/leakdown tested/inspected spark plugs of every miata/protege/sephia motor and guess what:

I'M screwed!
No one has a decent one. The ones that are SEMI decent are like 500+ and I just can't spend that kind of money on a mediocre old replacement stocker.


We inspected walls: with a very mild hone #4 will be good as new. The rest of them are FLAWLESS. Bearings are FLAWLESS. Rods are FLAWLESS. Everything is very clean inside and good.

So my plan of attack:
New stock pistons + new stock rings. New seals/gaskets and put it back together. I have given up my search for a replacement junkyard engine. My area just sucks ***** for them.


Now for the questions:

1) Best place to get stock pistons? What about tri-coated pistons? I really hope Brain see's this since I think I just heard about him putting those into his car.
2) Rings? Best ones and best place to get them?

Any help is greatly appreciated
TIA
-Vlad

Last edited by 18psi; 10-27-2009 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:44 PM   #2
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performance

ask them to mask off the wrist pin area for over-spray....

I used premium Sealed Power Moly Chromo rings from rockauto. like $70 shipped.
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:47 PM   #3
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Thank you kind sir
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:49 PM   #4
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I've used these guys. So has RotorNut, they tri-coated his pistons specifically
Evans Performance Products,atlanta,cryogenic processing,REM finishing,gear polishing,dry film lubricant coatings,marine race engines

Aftermarket pistons will come with rings.
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:52 PM   #5
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What do you mean by aftermarket?

I'm going to be getting stock replacements. Or do you mean aftermarket as stock but not made by mazda?
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:07 PM   #6
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I dunno about preignition melting pistons like that. I would place blame more on shitty ign map causing pistons to overheat and expand into cylinder walls. What psi were you running and what timing at that pressure?
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:23 PM   #7
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So, when you say stock, do you mean 99 9.5:1 stock again or 94-97 9.0:1 stock? Might as well drop the compression a bit if you are replacing them with stock ones. IDK if there are any other changes to the 99's other than the CR bump.
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:46 PM   #8
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Pre-ignition is usually more acute and features things like holes in pistons and general trauma. You just had shitty detonation. Show us pictures of your det cans.

Do yourself a favor and drop the compression if at all possible.
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Old 10-15-2009, 07:58 PM   #9
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And put some stronger rods in, dude its 300 bucks. Wait a paycheck or two and drive that nice suby you've got.
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Old 10-15-2009, 09:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neogenesis2004 View Post
I dunno about preignition melting pistons like that. I would place blame more on shitty ign map causing pistons to overheat and expand into cylinder walls. What psi were you running and what timing at that pressure?
I was at 12psi low 11's afr and on this ignition map:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stein View Post
So, when you say stock, do you mean 99 9.5:1 stock again or 94-97 9.0:1 stock? Might as well drop the compression a bit if you are replacing them with stock ones. IDK if there are any other changes to the 99's other than the CR bump.
You know what? That is a GREAT IDEA. Seriously thank you for bringing that up. Its the same size/bore, so I might as well go with the 9.0:1 pistons and reduce cylinder pressures. Definitely looking into that
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Pre-ignition is usually more acute and features things like holes in pistons and general trauma. You just had shitty detonation. Show us pictures of your det cans.

Do yourself a favor and drop the compression if at all possible.
Definitely going to drop the compression to AT LEAST 9.0:1 as Stein suggested.

No det cans. I know I know, I fail. I was actually about to start making some and then tune the car REAL GOOD. On the same night I made that decision my **** blew. Go figure
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And put some stronger rods in, dude its 300 bucks. Wait a paycheck or two and drive that nice suby you've got.
See here's the problem with that: I'm plenty happy with the power level I'm at, and if I do rods I might as well go all out and build a badass race engine.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not ignoring your advice, I'm just really not doing too well right now money wise. Had some **** come up and I'm dipping into "rainy day fund" already. Can't afford luxuries.


Oh and btw, I'm sad to report that the subaru is sold
We refinanced and needed the money to lock in a killer rate. It was either the miata or the suby. I've had 3 subies so I chose to keep the miata.
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Old 10-16-2009, 02:19 AM   #11
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nevermind

Last edited by 18psi; 10-16-2009 at 02:37 AM.
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Old 10-16-2009, 02:33 AM   #12
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Mazda Master Engine Rebuild Kits from RPM Machine
400 bucks gets you everything enjoy

http://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/index..._detail&p=4196
Major Engine Kit: contains complete gasket set, set of pistons and rings, main bearings, rod bearings, thrust washers, timing belt, balance shaft bearings (if applicable), and a set of expansion plugs (does not contain camshaft, timing kit or oil pump). Pistons & Rings: Std., .020, .040. Bearings: Std., 10, 20, 30.

A rering kit is like 240 bucks through them though its weird.
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Old 10-16-2009, 02:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
Mazda Master Engine Rebuild Kits from RPM Machine
400 bucks gets you everything enjoy

Mazda 1.8L 1990-1998 BP05 Engine Rebuild Kit
Major Engine Kit: contains complete gasket set, set of pistons and rings, main bearings, rod bearings, thrust washers, timing belt, balance shaft bearings (if applicable), and a set of expansion plugs (does not contain camshaft, timing kit or oil pump). Pistons & Rings: Std., .020, .040. Bearings: Std., 10, 20, 30.

A rering kit is like 240 bucks through them though its weird.
DAMN that's a pretty good deal

Thanx for the links man. However I already purchased the gasket set and timing belt set from egay

So now all I need is the pistons and rings.
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Old 10-16-2009, 02:51 AM   #14
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I'm also looking at this:




I'm assuming 95 bux for a set of 4 pistons, correct?
Also which rings would be best?
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Old 10-16-2009, 04:35 PM   #15
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anyone?
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Old 10-16-2009, 04:52 PM   #16
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You're going to need to call Rock, it's not clear on the site. I tried.

Get Wisecos and h-beams.
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Old 10-16-2009, 04:54 PM   #17
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My head hurts. $100 for pistons. $100 for rings. $100 to tri-coat.

Now you're roughly 3/5 to the cost of lighter and stronger forged pistons, which come with rings.

What do I know.
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Old 10-16-2009, 05:01 PM   #18
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Have you sourced factory bore forged pistons for us yet?
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Old 10-16-2009, 05:06 PM   #19
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Decent point.
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Old 10-16-2009, 05:15 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Have you sourced factory bore forged pistons for us yet?
Never looked. I can't find wisdom in not increasing displacement.

I have seen forged pistons in the $400-450 range though. Usually 1mm oversize.
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