j_man

Here is the diagram from some manual

j_man

Any problem with the plastic scrubbers melting when temps go up? I am thinking about plastic too because with all the engine vibration I wound't want any metal chunks from metal scrubbers accidentally find their way in the engine.

Btw did you remember to drill small holes in the baffle covers so the accumulated oil can drain back out of the baffled area?

JasonC SBB

When I opened em up some time later the plastic scrubbers looked fine. <shrug>

stav

Ι ordered yesterday a CUSCO oil catch can, that I found in very good price...I read in many forums different opinions about the cans...other say it is better to have some material inside the can to catch oil and fumes better, others say that the difference in temperature or speed of fumes when entering the can do the job....
As from what I was informed, this can opens from top, do you think it is a good idea to put some metal wool inside for better filtering? Isn't there the posibilitty some little metal particle from the wool to be sucked somewhere and cause a problem?
(I will also use a one way valve between the can and the intake)

The can is this one

j_man

Strange. I just tried this and now I think it is a bad idea.
After I put the plastic scrubbers my catch cans started filling at a much, much higher rate. Seems like the scrubbers help the oil moving, climbing up and getting out of the vent ports. In like 30 miles of cruising I had to empty the PCV side catch can because it started filling that fast.

I just opened the valve cover to see what happened inside and one can really see how the oil started travelling on the scrubbers ...

Here is my valve cover:






Here it is with the scrubbers installed:








And this is after 30 miles of cruising and one autocross:








Here is the other side (top side, when cover is on the engine) of the scrubbers:








Before putting the scrubbers in, my catch cans filled at a really slow rate. I had to empty after months of driving.

Very strange .... :|

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'm next on this deal, calling ARTech...

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

Just throwing this out there because I'm about to buy a catch can. (Artech, if you have a solution let us know) I have the square valve cover with port at the rear of the head. I don't have a catch can and no filter attached. I've boosted to 20psi and I have no blow by out of this orifice. I'm surprised that I don't, but it may be worth the switch to a different valve cover. I think it is a protege valve cover.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I think Abe and I are going to do this next month. I'm going to request #8 (I have a few feet and fittings already) or #10 (we know it will work) lines from the stock valve cover ports to an aluminum water bottle modified with a big-*** filter on the top and a baffle in the middle. Maybe he can copy it afterward.

jtothawhat

iTrader: (7)

Here is my bad *** set up...

BoostedTrixx

Anybody have any new info/feedback on using the port under the alternator on the 1.6 as a block vent? Suggestions for guys with 1.8s? I currently have the stock PCV system still intact, and the driver's side port open VTA, but I'm only running 12ish psi. Should I just drill and tap a bigger fitting into the PCV side of the valve cover and the same for the driver's side and run 2 lines to a catch can? 2nd fittings in the oil pan for an oil return/vent for the bottom end seems to possibly cause oil backing up in the catch can drain line correct?

curly

iTrader: (25)

Cspence has the vent port plumbed to his catch can. Check his build thread for pictures and details. PO installed it, but I don't think he's had any issues.

BoostedTrixx

Thank you sir...

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

I put the port on the block to a catch can and once I did that nothing ever came out of the valve cover vents.
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BoostedTrixx

Im still assuming that nobody has come up with a block vent solution for 1.8s yet? Any of you guys with 1.8s try tapping the pan right above the level or submerged level to check for any benefits?

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

This is going to sound dumb, but here it goes.....

After reading the thread i haven't found the main reason for doing all of this venting other than preventing excessive blowby out of the valve cover and possibly blowing out seals. Is this it, or am I missing something.

Would someone break it down for me. I am now concerned because I don't get anything out of the valve cover, and I haven't blown any seals.
Am I just lucky? Not making enough power? If it ain't broke don't fix it? Combination of 1.8 , 99 worked head, different valve cover, and 323 PCV just happens to work, etc etc

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Do you track the car and does it puke oil out without the baffle? I'd like to put my lines there and mine there too but I'm worried about not running the baffle there. I guess I could weld some aluminum sheet metal there too.

jtothawhat

iTrader: (7)

I have a baffle there.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Any thoughts on getting enough "vent" from only running one side of the valve cover? It's hard to find black "tight" 90* fittings like:

jtothawhat

iTrader: (7)

Yeah I was going to put one on the other side and opted out because it was hard because the manifold is so close to that opening that I don't even think a AN fitting would clear. Hopefully this does the job, and if I ever can get the car running I will keep you posted. This is obviously better than PVC valve so we'll see.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

My catch-can set-up was a failure:

With extreme left cornering around 1.3 G's I'm shooting oil through the passenger side line and filling up the can, I blame this on the oil feed being too close to the baffle port. I'm going to run one side only and see what it does, maybe two ports on that side if I need too. I think the secret is to keep the baffle orifice close to the center of the cover so oil can wash around the sides and not go into the ports, and keep it away from the front and rear.

After looking at this:

I think that hard cornering, with acceleration is what made the oil come out. hmmm...