OEM Head/Main bolts vs ARP Studs
#1
OEM Head/Main bolts vs ARP Studs
Morning,
Iīm working on my 250/300bhp engine and i would like to know safety power for OEM bolts.
I donīt know if ARP would be a must to use under 300. I didnīt read anything about crushed OEM bolts.
Same for healthy OEM oil pump vs Boundary one.
I still have a 5v gearbox so i would be under 250 for a time and will jump to 300 next year. Maybe could keep OEM pump and change it next year, with 6v gearbox...
Thanks !
Iīm working on my 250/300bhp engine and i would like to know safety power for OEM bolts.
I donīt know if ARP would be a must to use under 300. I didnīt read anything about crushed OEM bolts.
Same for healthy OEM oil pump vs Boundary one.
I still have a 5v gearbox so i would be under 250 for a time and will jump to 300 next year. Maybe could keep OEM pump and change it next year, with 6v gearbox...
Thanks !
#8
You know that changing the oil pump requires pulling the oil pan off, right? And that pulling the oil pan is best done by pulling the motor out of the car? It's basically the first thing that goes on the engine after you've installed the rods, pistons & crankshaft. It's easier to install head studs later than it is the oil pump.
No way would I put a motor back together without replacing the oil pump unless it's got very, very few miles on it. And if I'm buying a pump anyway, I'd buy a boundary one, not an OEM one.
--Ian
No way would I put a motor back together without replacing the oil pump unless it's got very, very few miles on it. And if I'm buying a pump anyway, I'd buy a boundary one, not an OEM one.
--Ian
#10
Yes i know that but pulling gearbox and change clutch / flywheel with out pull out the engine would be madness so i think would be easier to pull the engine out and to change oil pump without remove engine head, just the oil pan.
My actual OEM oil pump is healthy (check it with gauges) and i can rise up the pressure little more just putting a washer in the damper... in other way BF is so expensive.
Is there any problem with oil pan (1.6 1991) clearance and ARP studs?
My actual OEM oil pump is healthy (check it with gauges) and i can rise up the pressure little more just putting a washer in the damper... in other way BF is so expensive.
Is there any problem with oil pan (1.6 1991) clearance and ARP studs?
#11
Yes i know that but pulling gearbox and change clutch / flywheel with out pull out the engine would be madness so i think would be easier to pull the engine out and to change oil pump without remove engine head, just the oil pan.
My actual OEM oil pump is healthy (check it with gauges) and i can rise up the pressure little more just putting a washer in the damper... in other way BF is so expensive.
Is there any problem with oil pan (1.6 1991) clearance and ARP studs?
My actual OEM oil pump is healthy (check it with gauges) and i can rise up the pressure little more just putting a washer in the damper... in other way BF is so expensive.
Is there any problem with oil pan (1.6 1991) clearance and ARP studs?
#13
Yes i know that but pulling gearbox and change clutch / flywheel with out pull out the engine would be madness so i think would be easier to pull the engine out and to change oil pump without remove engine head, just the oil pan.
My actual OEM oil pump is healthy (check it with gauges) and i can rise up the pressure little more just putting a washer in the damper... in other way BF is so expensive.
My actual OEM oil pump is healthy (check it with gauges) and i can rise up the pressure little more just putting a washer in the damper... in other way BF is so expensive.
...you're not building a 1.6, are you?
--Ian
#14
I'm building my 1.6 without forged pistons (i think not necessary under 300 bhp).
Iīll mount OEM pistons, new rings, forged rods, ACL race bearings in all parts, ARP rod bolts and full head / block work.
You can check photos here: https://www.instagram.com/gn0m4/
Just thinking about ARP Head studs vs ARP Main studs vs BF Oil pump... the money the problem. Just want to create best engine "upgrade stages" for the money and for the other parts of the car.
My OEM Oil pump healthy is perfect and BF is sooo expensive, so in my opinion to mount ARP studs in all engine would be best option.
I never changed gearbox without pulled engine... so i donīt know how harder is.
Next year could change clutch, flywheel, gearbox, oilpump... all at same time.
Iīll mount OEM pistons, new rings, forged rods, ACL race bearings in all parts, ARP rod bolts and full head / block work.
You can check photos here: https://www.instagram.com/gn0m4/
Just thinking about ARP Head studs vs ARP Main studs vs BF Oil pump... the money the problem. Just want to create best engine "upgrade stages" for the money and for the other parts of the car.
My OEM Oil pump healthy is perfect and BF is sooo expensive, so in my opinion to mount ARP studs in all engine would be best option.
I never changed gearbox without pulled engine... so i donīt know how harder is.
Next year could change clutch, flywheel, gearbox, oilpump... all at same time.
Last edited by Gn0m4; 03-16-2017 at 04:37 AM.
#15
What about re-use main bolts? would be possible with safety? and... re-use head bolts?
I see a lot of people with 250whp with stock internals and pumps.
Thatīs my goal so has any sense to build a forged 1.6 engine with oem pistons, oem head bolts / main bolts and oem oil pump?
has more sense to build it with oem pistons, ARP head bolts / main bolts and oem oil pump with ATI damper?
or to build it with oem pistons, ARP head bolts / main bolts and BF oil pump?
Just thinking about throwing cash to finish my 1.6 project with oem pistons (to rise 300 bhp) vs to forget it and keep with my actual items (forged rods, ACL race bearings in all parts, ARP rod bolts and full head / block work).
I see a lot of people with 250whp with stock internals and pumps.
Thatīs my goal so has any sense to build a forged 1.6 engine with oem pistons, oem head bolts / main bolts and oem oil pump?
has more sense to build it with oem pistons, ARP head bolts / main bolts and oem oil pump with ATI damper?
or to build it with oem pistons, ARP head bolts / main bolts and BF oil pump?
Just thinking about throwing cash to finish my 1.6 project with oem pistons (to rise 300 bhp) vs to forget it and keep with my actual items (forged rods, ACL race bearings in all parts, ARP rod bolts and full head / block work).
#16
First off, on a project that you are going to spend a lot of good money....I would toss that 1.6 in the dumpster (OK sell it to some sap) and get a 1.8.
Once you start a project it is hard to stop...and then you have a bunch o money in a crap engine.
Maybe that is just me.
So you are going to rebuild an engine? You want to put a 30 year old oil pump back in service? Those pumps came with fragile cast gears (utter ***** for high performance) from the factory?
Now it is 30 or however many years old.
You are under the impression this pump is somehow OK? If the pump was a proven design...the best there was....and it had 30 years on it? In the Fking dumpster!
The oil pump is the heart of the motor...it has a jammer and all you have spent is gone. It wont warn you either!
Good pistons and rods...What are they $750.00 now? No you don't "have" to used forged goodies, but you have to pay for the other factory hardparts..I bet they are more money!
You weren't going to rebuild with 30 year old pistons right?
Dude the gaskets are near $250.00!
Building these things is expensive. Do it once, do it right, and with any luck you wont have the grief of a blown motor.
You can turn up the boost when you get your 6 speed without fear of popping a rod. From there octane and tires (you are going to burn them off) will be your only concern
Everybody has to stack up parts and wait until they have enough money.
Save a few extra months, sell the running 1.6 to offset costs.
What I would do...What my son Is doing right now.
How do you have a 1.6 in a 99 miata?
Did you get another car since you made your profile 2 days ago?
Once you start a project it is hard to stop...and then you have a bunch o money in a crap engine.
Maybe that is just me.
So you are going to rebuild an engine? You want to put a 30 year old oil pump back in service? Those pumps came with fragile cast gears (utter ***** for high performance) from the factory?
Now it is 30 or however many years old.
You are under the impression this pump is somehow OK? If the pump was a proven design...the best there was....and it had 30 years on it? In the Fking dumpster!
The oil pump is the heart of the motor...it has a jammer and all you have spent is gone. It wont warn you either!
Good pistons and rods...What are they $750.00 now? No you don't "have" to used forged goodies, but you have to pay for the other factory hardparts..I bet they are more money!
You weren't going to rebuild with 30 year old pistons right?
Dude the gaskets are near $250.00!
Building these things is expensive. Do it once, do it right, and with any luck you wont have the grief of a blown motor.
You can turn up the boost when you get your 6 speed without fear of popping a rod. From there octane and tires (you are going to burn them off) will be your only concern
Everybody has to stack up parts and wait until they have enough money.
Save a few extra months, sell the running 1.6 to offset costs.
What I would do...What my son Is doing right now.
How do you have a 1.6 in a 99 miata?
Did you get another car since you made your profile 2 days ago?
#17
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,099
So worried about your budget that you're willing to ignore all the advice you asked for. Nothing breaks the budget like building your motor twice because you were willing to delude yourself into thinking you didn't have to do it right the first time.
Gotta love it.
Gotta love it.
#19
I'm building my 1.6 without forged pistons (i think not necessary under 300 bhp).
Iīll mount OEM pistons, new rings, forged rods, ACL race bearings in all parts, ARP rod bolts and full head / block work.
You can check photos here: https://www.instagram.com/gn0m4/
Just thinking about ARP Head studs vs ARP Main studs vs BF Oil pump... the money the problem. Just want to create best engine "upgrade stages" for the money and for the other parts of the car.
My OEM Oil pump healthy is perfect and BF is sooo expensive, so in my opinion to mount ARP studs in all engine would be best option.
I never changed gearbox without pulled engine... so i donīt know how harder is.
Next year could change clutch, flywheel, gearbox, oilpump... all at same time.
Iīll mount OEM pistons, new rings, forged rods, ACL race bearings in all parts, ARP rod bolts and full head / block work.
You can check photos here: https://www.instagram.com/gn0m4/
Just thinking about ARP Head studs vs ARP Main studs vs BF Oil pump... the money the problem. Just want to create best engine "upgrade stages" for the money and for the other parts of the car.
My OEM Oil pump healthy is perfect and BF is sooo expensive, so in my opinion to mount ARP studs in all engine would be best option.
I never changed gearbox without pulled engine... so i donīt know how harder is.
Next year could change clutch, flywheel, gearbox, oilpump... all at same time.
EDIT: oh yeah, I have the ARP mains studs too. Not sure those are needed, but I did them.