ATI Damper Dimension needed
Anyone got an ATI Damper and caliper handy and can take a measurement for me?
Looking for the center to center distance between the 3 bolts. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...01777ae4cd.jpg |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1632628)
Anyone got an ATI Damper and caliper handy and can take a measurement for me?
Looking for the center to center distance between the 3 bolts. (3x 120° on a 3.200" bolt circle is more accurate) Miata ATI may be different??? |
The one I have is on a car and so is a little awkward to measure.
2.7 from the outside to outside of two bolts. Bolt width is .3 = 2.4 centre to centre. |
A call to ATI should answer this quickly.
|
What PN is yours? I have a 918522.
I'm getting 2.375". 2.725" outside to outside. .345"(ish) bolt head size. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...aa5c935543.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...daaa750d1d.jpg |
Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 1632682)
What PN is yours? I have a 918522.
I'm getting 2.375". 2.725" outside to outside. .345"(ish) bolt head size. Thanks again everyone. :bigtu: |
This is the part I'm about to have machined. Will drive a mechanical fuel pump.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...df840e3a10.png |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1632691)
Thanks! This is correct for a miata ATI Damper. I got a confirmation earlier from a contact at ATI and he confirmed. Works out to be a 2.750" Bolt Circle with 5/16 bolts.
Thanks again everyone. :bigtu:
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1632696)
This is the part I'm about to have machined. Will drive a mechanical fuel pump.
1. Make the corner radius between the mandrel and the flange as large as you can 2. Make the flange contact the mounting face all around. Getting rid of your scallop cuts completely would be the stiffest but won't look as cool. 3. Add a boss to the back side that locates on the ID of the damper. This will be more accurate than relying on the 3 bolts to center your mandrel on the crank. It's hard to see from your screenshot but it looks like you may have this already. You many not think you have much static tension on that belt (bending moment on your mandrel) but harmonics are a surprising. |
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1632711)
Good to know, I'm glad you went to the source for accurate info.
Nice. ATI sells mandrels but it's easy to spin off your own that precisely fits your application. My $0.02: 1. Make the corner radius between the mandrel and the flange as large as you can 2. Make the flange contact the mounting face all around. Getting rid of your scallop cuts completely would be the stiffest but won't look as cool. 3. Add a boss to the back side that locates on the ID of the damper. This will be more accurate than relying on the 3 bolts to center your mandrel on the crank. It's hard to see from your screenshot but it looks like you may have this already. You many not think you have much static tension on that belt (bending moment on your mandrel) but harmonics are a surprising. I do have a shoulder on the backside to keep it concentric, it's just hard to see like you say. One thing I could do to really improve the stiffness is to machine the pulley ID from 1/2" to say, 3/4" or so. Then I could do a larger diameter shaft on the mandrel which would be way stiffer. Thoughts? |
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