ATI Damper Install
 

Anyone out there installed a ATI Damper? The directions call for a damper install tool to press it onto the crankshaft. It's a one piece unit, belt gear, pulleys, etc and is a press fit. Can't I just use the crank bolt to draw it onto the shaft?

On a side note, while removing the stock gear my prybar slipped off and created a lovely hole in the AC condenser and I got to listen to all my refrigerant piss away. Fuckin sucks. I thought about removing it but I'm old and I like my AC in the summer. I'm sure this won't be cheap to fix....

With everyone that takes their AC out, just post a WTB ad for a used unit, I bet you could get one for $20 or so, and then all you'd need to do is pay for a recharge.

you could probably draw it onto the shaft with the bolt if:

* you heat it in the oven at low temp (not so hot it burns you)
* lube your shaft liberally.

:giggle: Couldn't help it.

i did my own, i also work for a engine machine shop

you do need a tool. is a threaded rod that fits the crank bolt threads, and there is a big nut that has a bearing atatched. the bearing sits on the damper and spins then you tighted, so that only downward pressuer is applied. there is no bolt spinning on the damper creating friction. also you have to hone the damper for the crank. you need to use a micrometer and measure the crank and a dial bore or telescoping gage to measure the damper. you can take a key(found at a harware store) and grinde it to fit the slot in the damper, grind it so it sits flush with the hole, and use a brake cylinder hone to hone it out

thanks for the details, although i don't like them.

Did you get your replacement condenser? Tom at partsgroup should have elventy billion of them. If not, I have one.

A shop installed my dampener and he said it was a huge PITA.

what i dont understand is... what's wrong with the way the OEM damper mounts? why on earth did they decide to make it a press fit?

dont make me dig up pictures of what doing this wrong will do to your crankshaft :)

how eles would it elimninate vibrations if its not touching the crank
balancers have been mounted like that for decades. its just most japanese manufacturers just bolt it on. that to me is worse, because now you have .002"-.005" free play for a slip fit, that would act like an ecentric if not bolted perfectly centered.

i'm not saying that having it pressed on is wrong or bad, but if the stock setup is working with the stock damper, why not keep the same mounting method. save everyone a whole ton of hassle and probably lose a minute amount of damping capability...

Because the stock setup is a compromise. I think the purpose of the dampener is minimal compromise max performance right?

fae- is that really your car in your avatar?

If so, that makes two posts in a row from dudes with cars that are too sweet. Mine is currently getting hammered on with Medieval torture instruments in order to fit huge ugly tires on for autocross. It's going to look like a golf ball when done.

Can this dude sniff out pessimism from a mile away, or what? Like fuckin clockwork, glorious.

No, that's just a picture of my car. :)

I no longer have the Enkei RS5s on-- I have 6UL nickel on there which are eaten up. If I can find a place to copper plate them inexpensively I'm going to let them oxidize and get a green patina.

I'll be taking some better pictures of my car for my build thread.

exactly. building a high performance race engine isnt a walk in the park. thats why its called a modification. your eliminating weak points

I ordered a installer today, be here next week. It's got the bearing you speak of and I think is a better Safe way of installing. I've heard folks talk about putting the damper in the oven and then wacking it onto the crank with a piece of 2x4 and hammer but I'm not real comfy with that technique. I also talked to FM about the bore clearance fit and they said they've never had to change the clearance. I'll mic it just in case though.

I did get a replacement, thank you.

I don't think it will be a pain at this point. Once you get all the stock stuff off the shaft (preferably without gacking up your condenser), clean and grease up your shaft liberally with arp lube, index it properly, and press that baby all the way home, should be good to go!

hold up everybody, isnt the stock crank tapered?

According to my installer, the clearances for the damper and crank are redconkulous. Something like. 0008 or something. If I fucked up a decimal place, sorry.