b6t 1.6 from capri xr2 help!
 

I have a ford festiva with a b6t from a capri xr2. I have it rocket chipped right now at 16psi. I want to run water meth on the motor as it is now.

I am rebuilding the motor now. All new gaskets, water pump, timing belt, new vj14 turbo (new to me), arp bolts. Once all is well with the motor and its in the car and running good i want to redo it for a garret gt2554r turbo and push around the 250+ mark.

Can you guys give me some info on the 1.6L Thoughts or ideas.

I have the b6t on the stand right now. About to pull it apart. I could do a basic port match myself while its all apart.

Any info would help.

Info on a 1.6? Besides slow at everything, and as expensive as anything?

GEE thanks for that!!! I am going with the b6t because it is drop in ready with a kit i bought. Once i get a full build under my belt i will do a 2nd car in a BPT fashion. Thanks for all the helpful info tho.

Im still looking for info on my 1.6L build.

I now have a 1.6 from a GTX that i got for a steal. I also have my 1.6L from my old capri xr2. My ford festiva is already running with the 1.6 in it. Im not going to the 1.8 due to space and weight reasons. I am about to sell another car i built and will have about 1500$ to upgrade the turbo system on the festiva. I plan to go with Twisted motion t25/t28 hybrid turbo and push around the 250whp mark.

Should i put the rods from my gtx motor in the big nose 1.6L i have in the car already? Will the stock rods be ok for around the 250 mark? If in the future i want to go past 300 what mods should be done?

Buy forged eBay rods, don't both with GTX rods. Other then possibly pistons nothing you can afford in your budget to go past 300whp.

What needs done to go past 250 to 300ish?

Forged pistons, or a perfect fucking tune. Realistically going above 300whp requires a build bottom end. You will be in close to $2000-$3000 to do it properly once you factor in machine shop costs.

$300 forged rods
$500 Supertech Pistons with Weisco Rings
$300 BE Oil Pump
$125 ACL Bearings
$250 random gaskets and other shit
$xxx machine shop costs.

Beat me to it.

So the rods from the GTX are not really any better then stock? Or are they better but not up to the task of 300 better?

I do have a shop just down the street from me that does great work and they have extremely good prices.

the 1500 i have to play with as of now is meant just for getting the new turbo and manifold and a retune.

This car is going to be used in autocross/daily driving. I may never push it past the t25/t28 and tuned setup (around 250) so is there anything i can or should do to make the 250 mark last longer?

I have a 2015 bmw s1000rr for my actual sped needs. This car is just a side hobby im starting. Not 100% sure what or how im going to do it yet. I have never autocross raced yet! Will on the 22nd tho...

I auto cross my car a fair bit. Anything above 14 lbs was useless on street tires. That said 200-225 is pretty good. A set of rods gives you headroom for power, forged pistons let you tune like a monkey without a tone of worry. If you aren't really familiar with megasquirt, you will tune like a monkey. Helplessly mashing buttons.

Also trying to get above 300whp quickly becomes a lets do highway roll cars. Due to the small displacement you have to run a larger turbo with a ton of boost, which gets you a ton of lag to get up above 300whp.

You claim swapping in a 1.8 is not an option, I would highly recommend you reconsider it if you want anything more then the power a stock motor will make.

Great Points!

With the main goal of keeping the car ready fro autocross ill stick to the t25/8 hybrid and have it tuned to the best that combo can get as far as power/lag goes and call it done.

The motor is in a fwd ford festiva that has been fully redone. It on 205 nito nt01 as of now but im gonna try some toyo r888 next. As of now i can hit an off ramp at 55 with one finger no power steering on my 165 55 14 econo tires and 0 tire noise. The Ford festiva is simple nuts once some money is dropped in it. By some i mean about 1000$

Off ramps aren't race courses.

True. I only did it to test the suspension compared to stock. Normally i drive with care on the road. Getting into autocross so that i car drive it like i want!

If you're on a budget, I'd advise you keep it below 250whp. Bang/bucks decreases massively as you climb towards 300whp. Stock internals can do 220-240whp for years on a decent tune with no problems. It's almost easy. Getting to 300whp isn't just rods. You should probably do pistons, oil pump gears, etc. And you'll need machine work and to assemble everything. Might as well do ARP fasteners while you're at it. Might as well get the head looked at, etc. Next thing you know you've spent an extra 3 grand for a 40 hp gain. And this is all still turd polishing because you're doing this to a 1.6.

If you're on a 1.6, I'd advise you run a smaller turbo to preserve drivability. All the big power 1.6L setups require a very well picked turbo and even then they are high rpm, high boost setups with narrow powerbands and lag.

If you're FWD, I'd advise you to keep the power down as well because traction.

Honestly 220whp in a small car is very very fast and lots of fun. Just get a smallish sleeve bearing turbo, run 15 psi, tune it properly and call it a day.

It kind of goes both ways though.. Sure a small turbo is great on a 1.6, or a 1.8. However, you will be making peak TQ very early in the RPMs, which will stress rods. Not a matter of if, but when, they will bend. And it will be at a much sooner interval than a set-up that makes peak TQ another 1000-1500 RPMs, later. Something to consider when choosing the proper turbo for a set-up. If its a "highway roll" car then something that is fully spooled by 2500 RPMs is not optimizing your set-up. BPs tend to have weak rods, but in-retrospect, it has a lot to do with the popularity of people building "250 WTQ by 3000 RPM" set-ups, and a lack of mechanical empathy, which we all love to ignore once in awhile.

You don't happen to be in Missouri do you?