Bad headgasket?
Ive put about 1000 my car with the shanghi kit, the only other modifications ive made are an ebay front mount and a tune. I had my buddy in the car giving him a ride, at the top of 3rd gear i noticed it began to run horrible. I let off the throttle looked in the rear view and the car is blowing a huge amount of white smoke. The car idles... barely sounds like its running on 3 cylinders, smoke alot at idle. After letting it sit and starting it up it blows a huge cloud of white smoke. Those are all the symptoms i believe... My first question is should i do a pressure test? And my second is what the heck do you guys think is wrong with it?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you -Greg |
1000 miles*
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one more thing when i boost the oil pressure gauge is all over the place that started with the severe smoking.
-Greg |
Sounds like a blown headgasket. Check your radiator fluid and see if it's changed color. Also see if you get a bunch of bubbles coming through the radiator. I would probably do a compression test & leakdown test. Now you say you had a tune - what kind of engine management are you running?
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When the engine is COLD, leave the radiator cap off, start the car, have someone accelerate it and check if water comes out the radiator. When it is pretty bad water will come out, that is caused by the compression channeling through the water lines.
Another approach: with the radiator cap on, engine off, squeeze the radiator water lines, they feel pressurized or do they collapse when you apply force to them. Be ready to get the injectors cleaned... once doing the head gasket repair and please do not install one of those ghetto FELPRO cardboard gaskets. Even the metal gaskets from CHina EBAY are better than the paper made felpro brand. |
Originally Posted by Cryswht93N/A
(Post 624621)
one more thing when i boost the oil pressure gauge is all over the place that started with the severe smoking.
-Greg |
Originally Posted by MartinezA92
(Post 624712)
Sounds a lot like detonation.
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compression test
then proceed to take apart the motor http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...5091227-00.jpg |
Im currently taking apart the motor now.. i started it with the radiator cap off it spit antifreeze out, the anti freeze is murky so i believe there is oil in it. I have a ms1 for engine management. I plan to rebuild the motor once i have it apart, what the worst that could have happened? I have Zero compression in cylinders 3 and 4.
Thank you -Greg |
How were you handling timing? Did you have a functioning boost gauge?
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he has ms
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No need for a compression test, open that beech...
Lets cross our fingers the excessive amount of water on the chambers has not bent any valves and that it has not warped the head. Take it to a machine shop to check the surface and on the meantime does not hurt to have it checked for cracks.] Usually what suffers the most is the cylinder head. I blew up a head gasket on a Toyota Supra, the square looking one. Later learn that engine suffers from cylinder head play because of the long straight six. I blew smoke everywhere, mine completely died, would not run at all. It was total mayhem with coolant, oil all over the place. Took it to NAPA, resurfacing, some dye was applied to look at the cylinder head under some special light to check for cracks. The engine block was not touched at all, just drained all the water and oil out. I let it open for a week or so (of course with the hood closed) to let everything dry. Back then, the summer Louisiana heat took care of any leftover water, and of course with the oil plug out. Assmebled everything and started the car, ran like crap, turns out injector #3 got stuck open and was killing my idle. A local truck shop cleaned them up, after that the car ran perfect. Added a few washers to the wastegate to add 1 to 2 more psi, luckily the car ran fine after that, posted on EBAY and a local kid bought it. At least on my experience the cylinder head needs more attention than the block. The guy from NAPA told me the block needed to be decked etc and I totally refused, some cleaning to remove the old head gasket and done. |
Originally Posted by mazpr
(Post 625114)
No need for a compression test, open that beech...
Lets cross our fingers the excessive amount of water on the chambers has not bent any valves and that it has not warped the head. Take it to a machine shop to check the surface and on the meantime does not hurt to have it checked for cracks.] Usually what suffers the most is the cylinder head. I blew up a head gasket on a Toyota Supra, the square looking one. Later learn that engine suffers from cylinder head play because of the long straight six. I blew smoke everywhere, mine completely died, would not run at all. It was total mayhem with coolant, oil all over the place. Took it to NAPA, resurfacing, some dye was applied to look at the cylinder head under some special light to check for cracks. The engine block was not touched at all, just drained all the water and oil out. I let it open for a week or so (of course with the hood closed) to let everything dry. Back then, the summer Louisiana heat took care of any leftover water, and of course with the oil plug out. Assmebled everything and started the car, ran like crap, turns out injector #3 got stuck open and was killing my idle. A local truck shop cleaned them up, after that the car ran perfect. Added a few washers to the wastegate to add 1 to 2 more psi, luckily the car ran fine after that, posted on EBAY and a local kid bought it. At least on my experience the cylinder head needs more attention than the block. The guy from NAPA told me the block needed to be decked etc and I totally refused, some cleaning to remove the old head gasket and done. Water will bend his valves and warp his head? Holy shit, Are you high? |
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Originally Posted by absRTP
(Post 625120)
the block is made of cast iron, the head and piston head of aluminium, aluminium will warp way before cast iron!
Hope there is nothing too bas for you! You do realize that there are pistons IN the block which will die way before the block breaks or head warps right? Also the miata engine is non interference, please explain to me how blowing a gasket will bend his valves? |
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Originally Posted by absRTP
(Post 625127)
Hmmm.... sorry, I never mentionned anything about valve...
I just say that aluminium bend way before cast iron........ like the head and the piston head...... not the block |
18 psi, google it, you are old enough to be http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:x...be/a07b_35.JPG fed.
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Originally Posted by mazpr
(Post 625149)
18 psi, google it, you are old enough to be http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:x...be/a07b_35.JPG fed.
How many miata engines have you built? MIATA engines. All the stupid shit you posted has nothing to do with OPs problem and you're too stupid to even realize it. Run along little dumbass. This is yet another thread where you offer your completely idiotic advice that has yet to help anyone. This thread needs real advice from someone smarter than a NAPA sales person. Don't you have an AUTHENTIC ebay manifold to sell? :giggle: |
Burp
Originally Posted by mazpr
When the engine is COLD, leave the radiator cap off, start the car, have someone accelerate it and check if water comes out the radiator. When it is pretty bad water will come out, that is caused by the compression channeling through the water lines.
Originally Posted by Cryswht93N/A
(Post 625097)
started it with the radiator cap off it spit antifreeze out, the anti freeze is murky so i believe there is oil in it.
Thank you -Greg http://www.gallozone.co.za/wp-conten...dle-finger.jpg |
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