Question on NB knock sensor and early NA Oil Sender
#1
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Question on NB knock sensor and early NA Oil Sender
I'm putting together some of my accessories. I wanted to use the OEM NB knock sensor and the 1.6 oil pressure sender in my '90 track build (MSM motor with forged rods). The oil sender will be used with the NA6 cluster and gauge but the knock sensor will hopefully talk to the adaptronic for safety. My problem is the NA6 oil sender is too fat for them to both fit. Should I scrap one of these for an aftermarket sensor/sender? Is it an urban legend that the NA6 oil pressure gauge needle will bounce on detonation? Should I keep both units and relocate the knock sensor somewhere? What are the cool kids doing?
#2
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It will bounce with set but must be screwed into the block. However, your tune should be safe enough to jot detonate, ever. Use det cans and advance beyond MBT to see how much headroom you have. You can get metric aircraft fittings and a little hose to move that sender out of the way which will also help keep it from breaking off, which I've seen.
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Thanks. I'll be running the adaptronic I had in the black car. IIRC, it would pull timing if it sensed any knocking. The only time that happened was ~5,500rpm which we determined was a harmonic anomaly in the motor. We dumped a ton of fuel and pulled a ton of timing at that point on the dyno and never lost the 'knock' so I just told the map to ignore it in those few cells. That was a stock MSM motor. The new motor is from a different MSM but has china rods and ALC bearings. I'll also have a good oil pump and will put an ATI damper on when I have some more cash handy.
I guess the first thing I should do is see if there is another bung on the cold side the when there knock sensor can mount. The 'real' oil pressure reading is more important IMO.
I guess the first thing I should do is see if there is another bung on the cold side the when there knock sensor can mount. The 'real' oil pressure reading is more important IMO.
#5
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Thanks. I'll be running the adaptronic I had in the black car. IIRC, it would pull timing if it sensed any knocking. The only time that happened was ~5,500rpm which we determined was a harmonic anomaly in the motor. We dumped a ton of fuel and pulled a ton of timing at that point on the dyno and never lost the 'knock' so I just told the map to ignore it in those few cells. That was a stock MSM motor. The new motor is from a different MSM but has china rods and ALC bearings. I'll also have a good oil pump and will put an ATI damper on when I have some more cash handy.
I guess the first thing I should do is see if there is another bung on the cold side the when there knock sensor can mount. The 'real' oil pressure reading is more important IMO.
I guess the first thing I should do is see if there is another bung on the cold side the when there knock sensor can mount. The 'real' oil pressure reading is more important IMO.
#7
Bump to add some more info. I did this on my car.
I was able to add a BSPT male-male fitting (tapered) and a female-female BSPP fitting (parallel -not tapered) to extend the sender far enough away from the block that it didnt interfere.
The male-male is here, and the female-female is here.
Grand total of like $8.50+shipping from your nearest McMaster warehouse. Throw in some (~$6) and you should have a leak-free solution.
(of course, modifying the NA oil pressure gauge and NB gauge cluster is a much larger pain in the ***...)
I was able to add a BSPT male-male fitting (tapered) and a female-female BSPP fitting (parallel -not tapered) to extend the sender far enough away from the block that it didnt interfere.
The male-male is here, and the female-female is here.
Grand total of like $8.50+shipping from your nearest McMaster warehouse. Throw in some (~$6) and you should have a leak-free solution.
(of course, modifying the NA oil pressure gauge and NB gauge cluster is a much larger pain in the ***...)
#9
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Thanks for the links. I ended up relocating my knock sensor to a boss lower and closer to the front of the engine. Not perfect, but it does seem to be reporting similar clicks and anomalies as the OEM placement on the MSM did with the same software. The stock placement between #2 and #3 right at the top of the block is better those so I'll probably replicate this over the winter. Thanks again!
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