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Old 07-18-2013, 03:24 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Laur3ns View Post
The velt-type tape is nice for under the dash, but not so much anywhere else where water/dirt come into the picture. That is MHO.
Yes, I screwed up. What I linked to is NOT the actual part number I included.

The Part number I included is the OEM BMW under hood wrap.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:43 PM   #22
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I would never, ever follow German practice when it comes to electrical or electronics.

Sorry to offend, just relaying hard-earned experience here.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:59 PM   #23
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that's pretty cool useful thread glad you didn't just listen to brain because then i wouldn't have read it.

I exclusively use scotch 33+ or 88 and haven't had much trouble but do need to replace it after 10+ years in awful environments. I'm going to check out the sweet self sticking silicon bondage.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:08 PM   #24
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Why don't you homos use M-Carr for **** like this?

Yes, you pay a small premium ... BUT ... you get an awesome web interface with tons of sleeving options and your **** comes like a like a 16 yearold in moist flesh (fast).

McMaster-Carr

Bonus: they also have silicone tape.

-Zach
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:12 PM   #25
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/\ That's a really cool selection.

Well anyway, I did it. Went to ACE hardware and got a 10' roll of the self fusing stuff. Wrapped harness with it. So far it was fairly easy to work with, and looks great.

Pictures later.

Also a real review later once I've used it a good amount of times and heat cycled it a bunch and basically put it through actual durability tests.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:16 PM   #26
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I would never, ever follow German practice when it comes to electrical or electronics.

Sorry to offend, just relaying hard-earned experience here.
You must be confusing 80s era BMW with 60s/70s era British/Lucas products.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:31 PM   #27
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ive been curious about the self fusing silicon. i used 3M electrical tape, but i used that thick high heat electrical tape they make, its like #80 or something like that. hasnt come off yet, but im considering TAKING it off, and using the self fusing stuff. can you post some pics of the self fusing stuff on your car when you are done???
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:36 PM   #28
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Split loom is great, just don't use cheap ****. It'll melt and/or get brittle.

C
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:45 PM   #29
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How can you tell the cheap and non cheap **** apart?
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:05 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
How can you tell the cheap and non cheap **** apart?
It's usually made of either polyethylene or nylon.

PE (Polyethylene) is generally better in outdoor environment (which is why your rubbermaid trash cans are made from it). Nylon has a higher temp range but is more prone to shrink, UV breakdown.

I would think either works fine. PE is probably more 'stable'.

-Zach
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:07 PM   #31
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How can you tell the cheap and non cheap **** apart?
Price.
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:16 PM   #32
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McMaster may have heat range listed in specs. I'm just bringing it up, since I've had the cheap stuff melt on me, though I don't recall where I bought it.... probably Harbor Freight. I've also given up on HF ZipTies, those ***** are brittle and weak.

C
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:22 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by z31maniac View Post
You must be confusing 80s era BMW with 60s/70s era British/Lucas products.
My direct experience is with Mercedes Benz products. A 1981 380SL (still have) and 1990 300SE.

In both cases, the wiring held up much more poorly than Japanese and American vehicles of similar age and mileage. And, in fact, much more poorly that my 1966 Fury (15 and 24 years older, respectively).

Bosch electrical products are some of the cheapest (in quality, not price) stuff made -- designed, or "German Engineered," to last for the warranty period.

Japanese electrical products . . . now that's some good stuff!

American aerospace/mil-spec products, like AN fluid connectors and this self-fusing silicone tape . . . now that's some great stuff!

YMMV.
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:42 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
Price.
And what if you are at the store which only has one kind, and no price comparison?
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:49 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
If so, then follow up question:
I've heard that not all black electrical tapes are created equal. in fact some said the higher end ones are so much better its not even a contest.

Anyone know of really good stuff?
Scotch Super33+

[/thread]
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:04 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Bosch electrical products are some of the cheapest (in quality, not price) stuff made -- designed, or "German Engineered," to last for the warranty period.
I began stockpiling Bosch relays for Volvo 240 since they regularly took a dump. To quote the Volvo parts department manager "Never confuse the terms 'durable' and 'reliable'. A Volvo 240 is undeniably durable, however, I would hesitate to call them reliable. There's a reason we had this relay in inventory."

Anyway ... here's the split braided loom I ordered from M-Carr yesterday. Looks way more baller/ALMS racecar than the corrugated plastic stuffs.



-Zach
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:10 PM   #37
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Valve cover in the background makes me cry. Venting from that side of the valve cover is a recipe for oil consumption and general fail.
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:37 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Valve cover in the background makes me cry. Venting from that side of the valve cover is a recipe for oil consumption and general fail.
Tis a lowly 1.6 ... seems all the issues have been on 1.8s (I could be totally wrong on this). Regardless, I RTV'd the **** out of the backing plate and the fitting is pointing up 35 degrees so the only way oil is getting through is via vapor or track g-loads (which my car is capable off, by the driver and his wallet are not).

If I haz issues I'll plug that side.

-Zach
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:59 PM   #39
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the fitting is pointing up 35 degrees so the only way oil is getting through is via vapor or track g-loads (which my car is capable off, by the driver and his wallet are not).
If the oil can get from the valvetrain into the baffles and through the pair of zig-zag chambers, the 35* angle isn't going to be much of an obstacle. Save yourself the hassle and just plug it now.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:22 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thasac View Post
To quote the Volvo parts department manager "Never confuse the terms 'durable' and 'reliable'. A Volvo 240 is undeniably durable, however, I would hesitate to call them reliable. There's a reason we had this relay in inventory."
Huh ?!?

Well, in that case, the Miata is "durable" and "reliable," as are most Japanese and, dare I say it, American cars.

You should see the wails, lamentations and general butthurt over on the MB forums whenever I casually point out that the emperor has no clothes. It's fun.
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