Best Single Upgrade to Keep a Turbo Engine Cool
Now that it's getting hot out, I've been running into issues with overheating. My current cooling setup is a eBay aluminum radiator with a whopping 57mm core, two 12 inch SiliconeIntakes fans (no shroud), coolant reroute, and no undertray. I already have an LRB undertray that I have yet to cut to fit my intercooler pipes and install. Temps seem shoot up to >230f after a fair bit of heatsoak (20ish minutes of street driving) but stay at a relatively stable albeit slightly high temp (205-206) at idle with the fans on. I am looking at a variety of options to increase cooling capacity and am curious about which one will have the biggest impact:
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Something isn't right.
Unless you live on Venus, 20 minutes on the street shouldn't be causing overheating in a vehicle with a large aluminum radiator and a coolant reroute, assuming it was competently installed. (I'll assume that you remembered to remove the radiator from the box it came in prior to installing it, and that your cooling system contains some kind of water-like fluid.) For starters, what instrument are you using to measure engine temperature? Is it trustworthy? |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 1603207)
Something isn't right.
Unless you live on Venus, 20 minutes on the street shouldn't be causing overheating in a vehicle with a large aluminum radiator and a coolant reroute, assuming it was competently installed. Also, I'll assume that you remembered to remove the radiator from the box it came in, and that your cooling system contains some kind of water-like fluid. For starters, what instrument are you using to measure engine temperature? Is it trustworthy? Ive never seen coolant temps get this high on the car before, but I haven’t been in higher temps like this with the new turbo kit yet. Specifically, my new turbo is water cooled whereas my old one was not. I figured my cooling system was adequate up until the past few days. |
My old DIY kit with the large ebay rad used to run similar (but slightly lower) temps, and I would easily see 230 if I pushed the car at all. I haven't installed my hood vents or shroud yet on the new setup, but installing the LRB undertray and trying to seal up the ducting helped bring down temps significantly back 2 years ago.
If you don't have one, Id recommends grabbing a coolant funnel like this to fill the rad. Makes getting air out of the system a breeze and prevents the mess. Coolant Fill Tool |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 1603207)
Something isn't right.
Unless you live on Venus, 20 minutes on the street shouldn't be causing overheating in a vehicle with a large aluminum radiator and a coolant reroute, assuming it was competently installed. (I'll assume that you remembered to remove the radiator from the box it came in prior to installing it, and that your cooling system contains some kind of water-like fluid.) On the street at normal speeds "any" junk radiator will have plenty of capacity. Oil temp reflects that you're obviously not creating excessive heat. Are you sure your fan is spinning the correct direction? Above 30 MPH you don't even need a fan if properly ducted. Are you sure you've purged all the air? Undertray is hugely important. Airflow is everything. |
A thicker core causes more flow resistance. If there is not enough pressure to overcome this resistance the thicker core rad is going to cool worse than a thinner one. Thicker is not always better.
If a miata with the stock core has problems overheating without the undertray, and they do, a miata with a more restrictive core is going to have all the more problems. |
Where are you located?
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Originally Posted by Ted75zcar
(Post 1603217)
Where are you located?
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Update: after topping off the radiator with water I went for a long interstate drive as well as some street driving and even got some nice stop-and-go action behind a hog semi. Temps on the interstate hovered around 225 but shot up to 235 on any medium-heavy acceleration - I did not try to push it any further than this. Street driving was more sporadic as temps seem to pull down while the fans are on at low speeds or at idle but heat back up while driving. Overall temps were a little bit lower on the street, 215-225.
I still think these numbers are too high, definitely out of my comfort zone considering it was only an 83 degree day. 95+ degree weather might make the car undriveable. I still need to either find out why my cooling system is being so inefficient or just upgrade it entirely. as many have mentioned, it sounds like the addition of my LRB Undertray and some work on sealing and ducting the front end. I’ll report back as soon as I’ve done this with new temps! |
Originally Posted by intenseapple
(Post 1603227)
I still need to either find out why my cooling system is being so inefficient or just upgrade it entirely.
/thread |
How do you burp your car's coolant system?
Also the silicone intake fans suck just FYI. No low profile fans move more air then stock fans until you start buying expensive SPAL fans. |
Originally Posted by deezums
(Post 1603228)
It's because some fucking moron didn't put the undertray on, and rather than doing so they go about overheating the car and planning on spending money on other shit for no apparent reason.
/thread |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1603236)
How do you burp your car's coolant system?
Also the silicone intake fans suck just FYI. No low profile fans move more air then stock fans until you start buying expensive SPAL fans. |
Ducting ducting ducting.
If there is a hole for the air to go around the radiator it is going to. You have to make sure it's forced through. Those fans suck. What reroute do you have and is it installed properly? |
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It's definitely the ducting. All of the air is simply going underneath and around the sides of the radiator.
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You said in the first post you don't have an under tray so you have no ducting? Well there's your problem.
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