My FM Weisco's are silent on cold startup.

 

Wiseco's

 

For those who asked to see what fell into the oil pan, I present the oil squirter bolt, the oil squirter and oil squirter bolt washer and various pieces of piston skirt.

 

Realistically speaking, these two things are probably not directly related:






"Yes, nothing gets the taste of shame and humiliation out of your mouth quite like Bebop-A-Reebop Rhubarb Pie."

 

I don't have the MAF sensor installed. One day I gotta make this car pass emissions with the boost setup still installed.

 

I still can't believe the torque spec for the squirters are like 9-13 ft lbs...

 

It is a hollow bolt with two holes so it is not very strong, i put locktite on mine when installing them just to make me feel better but it is not common to hear about the bolts backing out like yours did, probaby forgot to torque it when installing it ...

 

Pic of the carnage. There's a feelable scratch in the cylinder wall right where the middle of the carnage occurred but everything else seems fine. Bores are square (under .1mm) and smooth besides the scratch.

My current plan is to replace the busted piston with an identical one from wiseco + new rings (about 100 bucks) and put it all back together, capping the oil sprayer holes with bolts. While the head is off, I'm going to get a valve job and new springs.

 

That's not carnage. That's weight saving for faster revving.

 

You plan to hone that cylinder so the new rings will actually seat, right?

 

I'm not planning on getting it done properly at a machine shop or anything, but I will probably do a ball hone on this cylinder unless someone has a better suggestion. I'll be honest that I'm kinda nervous about this.

I've pondered whether I should rering all 4 cylinders while I have everything apart, but the others had good compression last time I checked so I figure I will just let sleeping dogs lie.

edit- as always, I welcome advice. The only thing worse than having to take everything apart is the worry that I'll have to take everything apart again later because I skipped something easy.

 

If there is a ridge bad enough to catch your fingernail, it will let air escape and it has the potential to cause damage to the new piston. If it were my motor, I would correct any scoring, even if it meant overboring and replacing pistons.

I would never ballhone a cylinder, personally. Getting the hone angle and depth is best left to a professional. Get that wrong and the rings never seal up, and you'll just be opening it back up all over again.

What do the rest of your bearings look like after having metal circulated in the oil system?

 

So far I don't see any signs of debris ingestion or oil starvation. I haven't inspected every single surface yet but so far everything looks surprisingly good. Ie, the bearings/journal surfaces look and feel new/smooth/clean with a thin layer of clean oil.

I didn't think it would be that hard to do a hone without screwing it up. I mean, you can tell the angle of the crosshatching visually, and Wiseco is pretty explicit about what you have to do to seat their rings.

 

Re-ring all of your cylinders. Reusing rings is just begging them not to seal.

 

But if they have already been in the car for years and have good compression, haven't they already sealed? I haven't taken the 3 other pistons/rods out of the car. I was planning to hone the cylinder and replace the busted piston, using fresh rings.

 

Hmmm, maybe if you don't pull them you don't have to. But I've always heard not to reuse rings.

Someone else will know more than me.

 

If you haven't taken them out, you're not "reusing" them any more than you are when you start the car every morning.

--Ian

 

Make sure to use a hone for moly rings and not Iron rings, it well be a fine grit. Make sure and cover the crank with a piece of cardboard an keep it smooth so the hone doesn't hang up on it when you go deep. Like Andrew said if you can hang your nail on the scratch it is to deep, especially since it is probably vertical which well cause oil burning and slight compression leak. Alot depends on how narrow it is also, if wide and deep you need to rebore or replace.

 

edit- the scratch isn't deep enough to catch a fingernail, it's just enough to feel with my fingertip

but on the bad side, I removed the carbon buildup on the 1/2/4 pistons and #1 has a bunch of little nicks on the edges, a bunch right against the intake side and a bunch right against the exhaust side. Looks foreign object damage. Fuuuu....

 

Wait...you aren't supposed to rebuild your engine every morning?!?! I've been missing out on so much sleep.