Break-in oil
Anybody recommend using this, or the additive for first startup? I was just going to go with some dino oil but one of my buddies suggested this stuff instead. Input?
Like this: http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html Or this: http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...tid=9&loc=show |
All the motors we've built we just used regular non-synth for the 1st 800-1000mi and never had any issues.
I haven't heard anyone report that stuff you linked being superior in any way. just my .02 |
I ran O'Reilly junk for ~15 minutes, drained, then filled with Rotella dino oil for 1000 miles and been on Rotella Synth ever since.
My builder told me to not worry about "break-in oil" because he used assembly lube, lol. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 742645)
All the motors we've built we just used regular non-synth for the 1st 800-1000mi and never had any issues.
I haven't heard anyone report that stuff you linked being superior in any way. just my .02 And if you really want zinc and phosphorous in your oil then use rotella synth 5w40 but its going to take longer to get your HLAs to prime. |
My engine builder suggested Joe Gibbs BR (Break-In) oil.
It is about the same cost at Mobil 1 per quart ($7-8). I learned a few things reading the technical info and "Training Center" at the Joe Gibbs Driven website. Some good info there, best I've seen from any oil manufacturer. Lots of info about oil for racing purposes and their products. http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/index.html |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 742645)
All the motors we've built we just used regular non-synth for the 1st 800-1000mi and never had any issues.
I haven't heard anyone report that stuff you linked being superior in any way. just my .02 Break in oil should be changed after only a few miles, just long enough to break in the rings |
Actually you're right: I changed my 1st oil at 300, then again at 800 and after 1k changed to synth.
Not after a few miles though. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 742668)
I ran O'Reilly junk for ~15 minutes, drained, then filled with Rotella dino oil for 1000 miles and been on Rotella Synth ever since.
My builder told me to not worry about "break-in oil" because he used assembly lube, lol.
Originally Posted by wayne_curr
(Post 742669)
Ditto. I break in my engines with straight detergent 30wt. Napa brand. I just dont buy the royal purple hype. If you really want to protect your motor on startup, get the oil system primed before you crank it. That will make the biggest difference in longevity I think.
And if you really want zinc and phosphorous in your oil then use rotella synth 5w40 but its going to take longer to get your HLAs to prime. Thanks for the input MT! |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 742702)
Actually you're right: I changed my 1st oil at 300, then again at 800 and after 1k changed to synth.
Not after a few miles though. |
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
(Post 742711)
Its probably alright, but pretty much all the break-in shavings happen almost immediately, which is why I change it out right away and then ride out like normal.
I should also note that my builder said he burnishes the cylinder walls after honing them, and I'm not really sure what it means other than my engine is better than all of yours because it's anointed with the tears of the affluent. |
We do break-in on the dyno and use vacuum decel readings to decide when the rings are fully seated, then change the oil, and then tune the car. The first oil change typically happens with ~40 miles on the odometer.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 742768)
and I'm not really sure what it means other than my engine is better than all of yours because it's anointed with the tears of the affluent.
your argument is invalid |
I used Napa non-detergent 30wt oil, took out the spark plugs and cranked it over until I saw the oil pressure gauge move, then fired it up. Changed it after the motor was broken in on the dyno
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 742774)
I honed mine with my schlong
your argument is invalid |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 742768)
Dude, if you have "metal shavings" then something is seriously wrong. Break-in is about the grain-structure on the face of each friction surfacel, not grinding down the rings. lol
I should also note that my builder said he burnishes the cylinder walls after honing them, and I'm not really sure what it means other than my engine is better than all of yours because it's anointed with the tears of the affluent. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 742772)
We do break-in on the dyno and use vacuum decel readings to decide when the rings are fully seated, then change the oil, and then tune the car. The first oil change typically happens with ~40 miles on the odometer.
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I broke my motor in by cranking it about three million times, then getting it to run horribly on a bad tank full of gas which was exposed to air for 6 months.
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I still have an unopened can of the engine primer that FM sells. I'll sell it to you for what they sell it for but I will overnight it for free.
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Originally Posted by astroboy
(Post 742849)
How many inches in mercury do you look for as a sign that the rings are seated? Between 20 and 30?
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Originally Posted by MartinezA92
(Post 742908)
I'm going to go with 30".
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