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Here is my plan, feel free to tell me what I'm messing up on besides the 1.6 I'm staying 1.6 for my 300whp goal. Car made 230whp for over a year stock 180k miles engine then things went south and melted a piston. This will be ran on e85 this year with supporting mods.
1.6 Stock Block Bored and Honed to 79mm.
LNC Crank Polished
Eagle Rods
Wiseco Forged Pistons 8.8/1
ATI Damper
ARP Main and Head Studs
Boundary Oil Pump 2-3 shim
MLS Head Gasket
Decked Head with Dual Valve Springs.
Stock Cams and Valves
Mazda OEM seals and gaskets for intake, VC, front and rear main etc.
Also adding SuperMiata Reroute and a large oil cooler setup. Stock Intake, Log turbo manifold. currently on dw200 and 750cc Injectors
What do you all think? What am I missing? What have I choose that sucks? Budget is around 5k for a reliable 300whp.
What turbo?
Just street and drift days?
I assume you already have the blower and intercooler?
Basically a MK Turbo Kit - T3 Setup with Flying Miata Intercooler and piping. Will upgrade to a larger intercooler.
Just Drift Days and Comps. I don't really street drive it.
Yes car has been turbo for over a year so I have the manifold, turbo, piping etc etc.
I would suggest some heavier valve springs, otherwise I think you have it covered. Maybe you already know but a stock BP 1.8 is capable of making nearly the same power as your built B6 1.6 and will cost less. B6 is lighter, vibrates a bunch less and revs faster.
I would suggest some heavier valve springs, otherwise I think you have it covered. Maybe you already know but a stock BP 1.8 is capable of making nearly the same power as your built B6 1.6 and will cost less. B6 is lighter, vibrates a bunch less and revs faster.
I guess my consideration with the 1.6 was I have it no extra parts to swap it into the car I already have the turbo manifold, injectors and breather setup for the 1.6. PNP ecm that works with the 1.6 without me splicing a bunch of wiring etc. I'm using the NB 6 speed and 1.8 rear so I assuming 300-350whp is my limit on these parts so I planned close to or at 300whp for a reliable engine that will last and assume the 1.6 was up to that challenge.. vs buying a 1.8 for 700-1200 dollars are then still buying rods, pistons, valve spings plus a turbo manifold has be what I believed to be an extra 1500ish into a 1.8 to get to the same point as the 1.6.
Building a 1.6, let the flaming commence
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