Built Motor Price Check
 

Not very knowledgeable about pricing of built motors. Although I'm not in the market for one, It'd be nice knowing some prices on them if I ever do decide to go that route.

built mazda miata BP 1.9 block | engine, engine parts | Edmonton | Kijiji

What's everyone think of the pricing for this engine?

TSE's engine is $4000 (+shipping), 949's engine has a $3000 CNC head and is $5500 (+shipping) (not sure if that's before or after $1300 core return). I've built a few engines myself, and their pricing is pretty good, after all the parts you'd buy (if you were to make your own), you'd save around $1000 of TSE's engine at least. Any paying $1000 for a competent person to assemble your engine completely is an absolute STEAL.

So yeah, $3000 is a good price, especially if you trust the assembler, and don't have to pay for shipping.

Rounding down on most parts, I'm getting around $2500 in parts alone from his little list, and that's before you figure a price for the block and crank. Maybe $200? So you've pretty much reached his asking price, before you've paid someone to assemble it.

10k miles could mean a lot or a little depending on usage. Was it a street car?

Also, you could have a similar engine built for not much more than that.

Yes, dammit:

M-Tuned/Eagle H Beam Rods -$350
Wiseco 9:1 Pistons 1mm Overbore - $440
ACL Race Bearings - $120
ARP Main & Head Stud Hardware - $220
Boundary Engineering Billet High Flow Oil Pump -$440
Supertech Springs & Titanium Retainers - $360+$210
99’ Spec Head - Mild Port and Polish - $350 - cheapest you'll find, with no port or polish
Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears - $300 - $150 each??

That's actually $2790. And now you owe me $20 for the time I just took to explain myself :)

See how quickly a mechanic's time adds up? PM for my paypal addy ;)

I'm really tempted by that ad, but the question of "if you trust the assembler" as per Curly weighs heavy on my mind.

I just finished building a mild NA motor and I've got $2,200 in parts only. I've also done all my own inspection and assembly work (with the help of a friend).

ARP head studs: $124.00
ACL Race Bearing set: $165.19
Machined Spec Miata cylinder head: $750.00 (got a deal on on, normally would have been $1250)
Gaskets and misc fasteners: $170
Machine work (polish crank and +1mm overbore): $200
Supertech 11:1 Pistons: $428.00
Manley Rods: $340.00

If it's got 10K miles on it then it can't have been screwed up *too* badly.

--Ian

It all depends on how many of those 10k miles were spent on the track or at higher engine loads. Also how good his tune was.

That's a lot of mines for a car that might have seen primarily track use.

This is Danny George's old motor (Formula D Drifter for those who don't know). Here's the link to the original for sale post on Clubroadster: Complete 400whp Built 99 Motor w/ T2 trans /Aem/AiM package

You can even see the last post stating the engine was heading to Canada.

So its safe to assume not all of those are "street" miles.

Run.

Dick move on the sellers part for not mentioning where that engine came from.

Extremely dishonest seller.

I like Curly's build list HOWEVER I don't personally see how spending $500 on valve train upgrades makes sense. I'd rather spend that money on a 949 damper OR an ATI fluiddampner.

In light of the opinions shared in the "what is your rev limit" thread, I can't see myself revving that high for long anyhow.

I'm not saying it isn't worn out -- just that if it survived 10K miles then he probably didn't make any huge mistakes in assembling it. :)

--Ian

That's is Canadian dollar too most likely. So at about 80cents to a dollar, it's actually cheaper. However as it was said, 10k on track could be pretty beat up engine and 10k on street could be really good!

Wasn't my build list, just copied from the for sale ad.