AN compression fitting for heater core?
 

Has anyone used a AN to tube adapter for the heater core?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-165010ERL/

I'm looking to do a bit of a coolant reroute and need to run the heater core to the mixing manifold, thinking 6 feet of stainless hose would be more reliable than 6 feet of fiber hose..

(no not hyper routing)

i have been thinking about doing something like this, but didnt want to be the guy to ask.....

in for feedback!

Give this shit a shot and let me know. I'm seriously interested in how this turns out.

+1 for let us know. BUT, I miked it up, and the tube measured somewhere around .68, which I thought was too big for a 5/8" swage to bite on. FWIW, I'm using this: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3491. 5/8" hose does fit well over the heater barb, and pegasus has barb to AN fittings for this hose. I'm using it for heater return, and tapping the mixing mani for 3/4" NPT. I'll have pics on a build thread when it's more assembled.

I like it and would love to do it to mine.

Problem is, to do it you need to cut the barbed end off the existing hc ins and outs, and it doesn't leave you mucho if it doesn't work.

Hey, ctdrftna doesn't have an hc, does he? If he did, it would be AN.

BTW, there may be a Swagelok fitting that would work, too. Maybe someone smarter than an ant can come up with a part number? That wouldn't be me.

Parts ordered, will hopefully pressurize the system in a two weeks and report back.

We believe in you.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4008/...a233a5ab35.jpg

Blue hose is heater return to mixing mani, which I flipped around to work with my bottom mount. The port that normally returns heater water was tapped 3/4" NPT instead of using the stock hard tube with o-ring that goes under exhaust mani as stock. 3/4" NPT to -10 AN straight, 90* -10AN to 5/8" hose barb, the blue hose is a push on Aeroquip AQP made to handle 300*F. I'll push that onto the heater hose outlet on the car and throw a hose clamp on it there. Clamping to the driver's side frame rail to keep it away from the hot parts.

Mine's using an S4 manifold too.

I'm using a combo m-tuned reroute and begi's lower radiator hose mount, but since the pipe is deleted need to do something similar and run a hose to the lower radiator. Don't think I could pull off the flipping of the inlet since I'm trying to retain power steering (no real reason) and A/C (Must have in ATL).

And I need to denewbify myself and post a build thread, almost done, maybe 3 more weekends..

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_XkxLua5W3H0/Sx...waterroute.jpg

The AN10 collar didn't fit over the flanged tube, realized I had a busted heater core assembly at home (I'm working in my fathers hangar) I wouldn't hesitate to cut off the swage and doublecheck, then I forgot to bring the part home with me. That AQP solution looks nice though, I'll have to look into that..

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=5993

You can run the heater hose to the Begi-style relocated lower rad hose with that.

My gripe about the AQP is that it's blue only, don't like. Pegasus has the same type of hose in blue or black. Careful which type of hose you use, boys. Most of the textile/rubber hoses for barbed fittings are only good for 212F. You can use silicone, it's more expensive.

Couldn't you always have the AN fitting brazed onto the core directly? That's what I would do...

http://www.holley.com/997110ERL.asp

Anyone in the know, is this what you would use to do this? Would you need to do it in the car? I'm not going to do it at this point, but it would be good info to file away.

Basically yes... Just make sure the materials you are brazing together are compatible to be brazed. This is also how they do radiators with AN fittings as well. Just remove the old 'barb' completely and weld/braze the fitting in place.