Originally Posted by comradefks
(Post 93191)
As far as bleeding, I fill the radiator with the nose of the car jacked up then run it until it's up to temp at idle. Keep filling radiator as needed. Then hold that car at between 2k and 3k in revs as it continues to purge out air. Basically stop when I stop seeing bubbles come out of the fill. Let the car cool down and top off the radiator/overflow as needed at the point.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 931929)
That sound pretty good. The only thing I might add to the end is letting the car idle until the fan comes on and turns off 3 times to make sure all the air is out.
I think we got all or almost all the air out of the system. If there was some air in there, it was negligible. |
Originally Posted by comradefks
(Post 931915)
Oil temps at the drain plug sensor got up to about 250F over the weekend. Don't know what the delta between that location and an oil cooler sandwich plate or the other locations for a reading are.
Originally Posted by comradefks
(Post 931915)
As far as bleeding, I fill the radiator with the nose of the car jacked up then run it until it's up to temp at idle. Keep filling radiator as needed. Then hold that car at between 2k and 3k in revs as it continues to purge out air. Basically stop when I stop seeing bubbles come out of the fill. Let the car cool down and top off the radiator/overflow as needed at the point.
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1 Attachment(s)
Lisle magic funnel:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1348678778 |
Originally Posted by comradefks
(Post 931938)
Understood. Only issue is that I'm running a MS now so the fan coming on and off is solely to do with coolant temp from the sensor at the back of the head and doesn't necessarily coincide with the thermostat opening, which is my understanding of what makes the coolant in the radiator dip and push water/air through to the fill at the radiator.
I think we got all or almost all the air out of the system. If there was some air in there, it was negligible. |
[QUOTE=hustler;931956]You drive like a woman if your oil temps are 250*f and you're not running an oil cooler.
I was...because I was overheating. Do about 1 hot lap for every 3-4 cool down laps in a session. Cool down laps were about 20 seconds slower than a fast lap. |
[quote=comradefks;932009]
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 931956)
You drive like a woman if your oil temps are 250*f and you're not running an oil cooler.
I was...because I was overheating. Do about 1 hot lap for every 3-4 cool down laps in a session. Cool down laps were about 20 seconds slower than a fast lap. |
It really did suck. Almost packed it up early a couple times on Saturday night and Sunday morning but decided why not go out there.
Ended up playing the drive it 4th gear everywhere and pedal it on the straights while catching my friend in his slow ass 240sx single cam around the track. Proved entertaining :) |
2 Attachment(s)
So I guess my consensus is to upgrade the radiator, make sure my radiator cap is replaced and has a pressure rating that is adequate and bleed the system thoroughly. Also want to revisit my radiator ducting and see if I can improve on it.
Oh, and I drew this up real quick. I will make it up at work and rivet around the vent opening in the hood to promote heat extraction. |
We have one of the Lisle magical funnels here but never use it. John prefers to lift the nose of the car up. One trick I've found for burping is to put the back cap on just before the tstat opens. Pressure builds in system and helps push bubble out back of engine.
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wouldnt hurt to add some shrouding and "box-in" the radiator.
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I have done by best to duct the inlet to the radiator at this point but I do think there is some room for improvement. Have been reading a few different ways to attack the problem and going to try my hand at some of the solutions when I address the radiator issue.
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Pics of your setup? im trying to work out the best way to attach the ducting at the bumper and such? I had hoped to mess with my ducting this weekend, but we had crap weather.
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Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 934030)
Pics of your setup? im trying to work out the best way to attach the ducting at the bumper and such? I had hoped to mess with my ducting this weekend, but we had crap weather.
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9 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 934030)
Pics of your setup? im trying to work out the best way to attach the ducting at the bumper and such? I had hoped to mess with my ducting this weekend, but we had crap weather.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349123560 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349123560 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349123560 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349123560 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349123560 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349123560 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349123560 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349123560 Most of this is ghetto because I rushed to get the car on track in just a few days. |
Nice ducting techsalvager*.
*I vote we replace "peasant" with techsalvager. Especially when used to describe copious amounts of zip ties. |
thanks hustler! That plastic looks way thicker than the stuff you recommended the other day, where did you get it? Did you have to pull the bumper? i have mesh in there to keep the IC safe and i also have to deal with that pita bumper opening.
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You need to get a factory under tray on that thing, that single piece of plastic with no sides is doing little to protect the low pressure side of the radiator. IMHO I would rethink your shrouding as well, the plastic wall at the bottom of the radiator is doing nothing to direct air into the radiator. It is simply blocking off an area for the air to bypass. Proper ducting directs air smoothly to the radiator, and gives it no choice but to pass through the radiator.
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I am looking at possibly participating in the SV Miata Challenge at ACS in mid November, about a month from now. I do not currently have the funds to upgrade to a TSE radiator as discussed previously. I would like to upgrade/replace my radiator cap with a Koyo 1.3 bar and add the lip/riser in from of my hood opening to help with heat evacuation.
I expect the weather at ACS next month to be considerably cooler than BRP in Sept when I was overheating. Thinking 70-80 degrees ambient. That would be 20-30 degrees cooler than BRP. What do you guys think my chances of overheating at ACS would be? I have never been to the track. Do I have a shot of not overheating with those long full throttle straights? Thanks. |
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