Cracked manifold.. ETD alternatives?
 

are there any? Been looking.. not finding though.. ta.

What manifold did you have that cracked? an ETD?

are you trying to get a manifold that allows you to use the same DP?

1.8? 1.6?


We need more info before we can help you.

sorry... nearly through a nice bottle of Merlot. ;-)

Current one is a Greddy manifold that has cracked in a few places.

Yeah same downpipe if possible (its an 8 week old TurboTony)

This thread sounds soooooooo familiar. Wasn't this same thing asked 2 weeks ago or so? Replacement for a greddy mani.

Here you are: ETD Racing Greddy Turbo Kit Replacement Manifold 1.6L ETD Racing

I bought and used one for a short while before I upgraded my engine/turbo. It's a perfect fit and seems well made.

That's ok. I'm easily on my seventh or eighth rum & coke of the evening. (Hooray for first class upgrades.)

If you want to keep your current downpipe, you have three options:

1: Buy another crappy manifold from Greddy.

2: Buy the ETD manifold that DeerHunter linked to.

3: Custom.


Put simply, the ETD manifold is the only non-Greddy manifold you can buy as a standard piece which will locate the Greddy-supplied turbo in the correct orientation to accept a Greddy-style downpipe.

I've only heard good things about the ETD manifolds, not heard of anyone in the UK having any problems with them... iirc there is an ebay seller of similar name though, just buy from the site linked to above and you'll be fine.

Plenty of people with problem GReddy manifolds, mines been 2yrs with no issues though. relief cuts FTW!!!

Talk with Abe (ARTech). I had problems with my FM manifold and after some thinking I decided to replace everything. I was recommended to Abe and he is currently finishing up my parts.

And I've got just under five years on mine- did the relief cuts initially, then re-did 'em about three years ago when I found that they'd partially closed up. I can only assume that I'm not pushing it hard enough. Time for 17 PSI?

But seriously, Steve, just buy the damn ETD part.

Yeah, its been on the car since 2003 so it owes me nothin' at this stage.
Had a look earlier (I've been holding out.. but driving with the window down when its -13c is gettin' old) the cracks in the manifold aren't causing this leak, they are waay too small (tiny tiny hairline cracks), but my relief cuts have closed up.. so it could be buckling and pushing the manifold off the block when hot. I'll pull off the manifold and recut it.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dBUe7PVL7zo/S1...d-cyldr3-4.jpg




*Then order the ETD later in the week when its still leaking.

Thats what mine's doing! Damn thing is IMPOSSIBLE to get off. It took quite a while with a pry bar to get it off last time, I'm afraid to ever take it off again. I also started taking studs out with the nuts froze on. Next time I'll probably have to take all studs out and replace them.

I'm not sure how much this causes leaks, as I have fairly significant leaks between the manifold and turbo, and between the turbo and down pipe.

Same here...

Firstly you need to make relief cuts that are at least 5mm thick imo. I had a shitty Greddy manifold on my old turbo car and it lasted 12 months with inadequate relief cuts made with a 2mm thick hacksaw! It cracked, warped around the studs and was impossible to get off and replace. Until I got my angle grinder out and "relieved the stress on it"...

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0253_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0254_large.jpg

I then put in a ETD and it ran brilliantly. Oh and don't relief cut the ETD as I spoke to them and it will void the warranty. If it cracks, which is unlikely as it's mild steel, they'll swap it.

Aw crap, not looking forward to this..
Was thinking that if it is stuck on the studs I could cut a slot with a dremel where the relief cut was made originally between 2 & 3 and stick the end of a prybar in it to seperate it out a bit. Don't know if this would work or not, or if I'd need more leverage than I could get at it.. hmmm..

Would enlarging those bolt holes help or cause leaks?

Then you wouldn't be centering the exhause manifold on the exhaust outlets of the head. Just use the double nut method to remove studs until it comes off freely.

Edit: don't forget this will probably ruin a few studs, so don't do it without replacements or when you don't have time to go get them.

If that Tony DP doesn't have a flex piece on it, you may want to look into that as well. I'm pretty sure that's part of the problem with the Greddy manifolds as my DP had a flex section and I ran it ~2years with no relief cuts and no problems.

yeah cheers for the tip re doublenuttin' , nearly forgot about that ;-) You wouldn't happen to have the stud spec? Or are they generic?

Yeah, it has a flex piece, but its been leaking since before I installed it.
Am lucky enough to have a backup car (Triumph Stag which needs an oil seal .. badly) so no probs on taking a week to do it.

Cheers,
Steve

I'm happy with my greddy ETD manifold. Good product and makes Poher! I've had it for 2 years.

oh yeah? Cool. Any chance you have any before/after figures? Just curious to know.

Nope, sorry. Butt dyno says its a good investment.

I have a 1.6 FM :dunno: