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crank thrust question
Hi all,
I have a question that comes with a bit of a story that I searched for and found nothing. I have a 1999 NB stock engine with 40kish miles on an economy rebuild of the engine, I was replacing my crank sensor a few weeks ago. I was on the side of the freeway (things always go out at the best time.), I didn't have a socket or any thing I could turn the crank with, So I had my buddy bump the starter to spin the crank so i could set the gap some where in the vicinity of the thickness of my business card. When he hit the clutch to start it, the crank noticeably moved forward. not like a quarter of an inch, but i mean enough that i could very easily see it move, easily 1/64th of an inch. So from people who have experience with these cars how bad is this? Is this normal for a lightly worn engine? Should I get the car off the road and start ordering parts for a rebuild? Car runs great no odd noises, It goes into the mountains on a weekly basis as well as being daily driven and out of the 40k, at least 2k of them are on the race track, probably more. I always use a decent synthetic changed very 3k or after a track day(castrol edge or schaeffers if i can get it). so any thoughts or opinions welcome, thanks in advance. |
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If it truly is 1/64 you're at .015. This is above maximum recommended but is usually not a killer deal. I'd measure with a dial indicator and as long as it was below .020 I would use engine.
Every time you depress the clutch pedal you are mechanically pushing the crank against the rear face of the rear thrust bearing and they will wear with age. Now if you need an excuse to rebuild one anything over .012 qualifies... Some engines (Toyota R series for sure) hold the rear thrust bearing on a tiny ledge and it's common for those to wear then DROP OUT leaving you with .200-.250 play. If the Miata can drop bearings like this then being perfect is more important. I don't know BP engine well enough yet to advise further. Hope this helps Rick |
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Every new engine I've ever put together has been .006-.008" thrust. .012 would sketch me out. .015 would have me pulling the bottom end apart ASAP.
This is not the kind of thing you can eyeball. You need a dial indicator. |
if you can easily see it, i would bet it is way over spec. .012 isnt much at all and really isnt very noticable.
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so the answer is I need to dig my dial indicator out of storage this weekend, find out how bad it is, and probably plan on rebuilding the bottom end
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1419830)
Every new engine I've ever put together has been .006-.008" thrust. .012 would sketch me out. .015 would have me pulling the bottom end apart ASAP.
This is not the kind of thing you can eyeball. You need a dial indicator. |
40k and needs a rebuild? You know these engines almost universally last to 200k right?
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Originally Posted by Bronson M
(Post 1419988)
40k and needs a rebuild? You know these engines almost universally last to 200k right?
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also stated at least 2k on the track.
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Originally Posted by bahurd
(Post 1419999)
He said "40kish miles on an economy rebuild of the engine" so no telling what the mileage is on the bottom end.
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Measure and know.
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I pulled out the old dial indicator, and my thrust is between 12 and 13 thousandth's, so I guess I got alarmed for nothing, thanks!
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Originally Posted by THATGUY6258
(Post 1421041)
I pulled out the old dial indicator, and my thrust is between 12 and 13 thousandth's, so I guess I got alarmed for nothing, thanks!
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Originally Posted by THATGUY6258
(Post 1421041)
I pulled out the old dial indicator, and my thrust is between 12 and 13 thousandth's, so I guess I got alarmed for nothing, thanks!
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1421081)
At or over the Max, but you are happy?
Originally Posted by bahurd
(Post 1421087)
So you're bottom end has 42K miles on it and the thrust bearing is already at or out of spec? Did you not put in a new thrust bearing and check it at assembly stage?
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Originally Posted by Art
(Post 1421133)
Some folks on this board are strange. Lots of non-engine builders quick to tell you what you are doing wrong instead of being helpful. I posted an article of a known issue with '99 engines specific to your situation and got downvoted. Like what, that is bad advice? I don't stress the votes too much but when you're averaging 1 downvote per post trying to be helpful the politics feel pretty thick.
It isn't always about the maximum amount of time and money you can spend. Actually using what you have, without tearing into the engine when you don't have to, is actually way better. I don't suppose we can convince all the stubborn cliquish types or remove the giant stick some people seem to be walking around with but at least you don't have to rebuild your engine. |
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