Crankshaft Depot Ebay Rods
10-13-2010, 02:18 PM
#21
Considering the fact that i blew an assload of money on all the quality stuff i did on my last motor only to have it go to nothing makes me not want to go that route again. Ive already changed builders so why not adjust the parts layout? Im not spending 700 on rods again.
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10-13-2010, 03:37 PM
#24
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lmao he accepted my offer! I wrote him this:
By the way, theres a discussion on one of my car forums that i started about these rods. These are the same as Eagle, Scat, Summit and Tomei rods arent they?
By the way, theres a discussion on one of my car forums that i started about these rods. These are the same as Eagle, Scat, Summit and Tomei rods arent they?
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10-13-2010, 04:25 PM
#25
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Do you have an accurate scale? Can you weigh them when they come in before you install them?
I am interested...
Also, would the 0.1mm over (0.004") be to make the rod "floating" type as opposed to press fit, or is that mainly with the piston itself?
Run over the rods with a bore dial indicator and see how much variance is on the machining so you can be happy (and report back)
Magnaflux the rods and see if there are any weak spots (and report back)
Dope.
I am interested...
Also, would the 0.1mm over (0.004") be to make the rod "floating" type as opposed to press fit, or is that mainly with the piston itself?
Run over the rods with a bore dial indicator and see how much variance is on the machining so you can be happy (and report back)
Magnaflux the rods and see if there are any weak spots (and report back)
Dope.
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10-13-2010, 04:27 PM
#26
Yup.. There are multiple rod foundries in Asia. We worked with 3 of them when designing the rods and only picked one for the final product as we were not happy with the QC.
I can assure you our rods have been tested at over 600hp and are a quality product. I've even seen a set of rods used in an engine with no oil (Customer forgot to put oil in and spun bearings) and then placed into another motor with zero problems. He has over 20,000kms on that engine.
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10-13-2010, 04:29 PM
#27
I weighed my set on our lab's precision balance and the set of 4 had a spread of about 0.6 grams. Two of them were within 0.01g, then one was a tad higher and one a tad lower. Actually I think my M-tuned rods were slightly more closely weight-matched than my set of Supertech pistons, which were also all within a gram of each other.
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10-13-2010, 04:45 PM
#28
As much as I like to support small (especially local!) shops, I am now a scab for buying a set. I threw in a really low offer just to see what would happen. When I came back it was already accepted. I'll buy a set of M-Tuned rods if my engine blows up.
EDIT: Just read the fine print and it says for years '85-'00. Will these not work for my 01? I thought the rods are all more or less the same.
EDIT: Just read the fine print and it says for years '85-'00. Will these not work for my 01? I thought the rods are all more or less the same.
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10-13-2010, 05:40 PM
#29
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As much as I like to support small (especially local!) shops, I am now a scab for buying a set. I threw in a really low offer just to see what would happen. When I came back it was already accepted. I'll buy a set of M-Tuned rods if my engine blows up.
EDIT: Just read the fine print and it says for years '85-'00. Will these not work for my 01? I thought the rods are all more or less the same.
EDIT: Just read the fine print and it says for years '85-'00. Will these not work for my 01? I thought the rods are all more or less the same.
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10-13-2010, 09:02 PM
#31
The problem I have with china rods is that hit or miss qc with these compared to things like turbos or manifolds would end up costing you A LOT more money and time.
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10-13-2010, 09:57 PM
#32
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Where are they machined is the question.
FTFY!
FTFY!
I'll buy a set of M-Tuned rods and maybe some pistons and valves if my engine blows up because some Chinese machinist getting paid a dollar a day thought 45% of thread, not 85%, is enough to keep a rod bolt from pulling through the threads and letting the rod cap come loose sending the piston rocketing skyward crashing furiously into the valvetrain causing massive carnage.
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10-14-2010, 08:04 AM
#35
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It is a good deal but as is customary on here, someone will always try the cheaper route at some given point. When i get these in, ill take em to my builder and report back my findings. I may be fortunate for once and score a good set. Dont know till i try.
Look whats happened with china turbos. I feel like the minority using a true garrett lol
Look whats happened with china turbos. I feel like the minority using a true garrett lol
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10-14-2010, 09:07 AM
#36
Yeah, you're leaving out the fact that if the engine does blow up that means you will need another $1K+ to build another cheap one or less in the case you decide to go back to stock. If your Churbo goes out then is just another $300 at max, bolt-off, and bolt-on. Done.
Jared I'm all for the cheap but $100 extra for reliable rods is worth the peace of mind. Also may I remind you Murphy is your homeboy.
Jared I'm all for the cheap but $100 extra for reliable rods is worth the peace of mind. Also may I remind you Murphy is your homeboy.
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10-14-2010, 09:21 AM
#37
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I know. When I get them, if I dont like the quality and what Skippy says, then Ill snag a set of M-Tuneds. Know one will know unless I try so bitches be happy im spending my cash to experiment for myself and all of you too 
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10-14-2010, 09:35 AM
#39
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We already experimented with these when Belfab was selling them.
We've already determined that M-tuned does a great job of weight matching and using better hardware.
I was on RitzCamera.com and they were selling the new Nikon D3100. Then I logged on Bestbuy.com and they were selling it as well but with a package with a second lens for slightly more cost...
We've already determined that M-tuned does a great job of weight matching and using better hardware.
I was on RitzCamera.com and they were selling the new Nikon D3100. Then I logged on Bestbuy.com and they were selling it as well but with a package with a second lens for slightly more cost...
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